CNN Travel

Are there too many 'German' Christmas markets?

sbusch — Wed, 04 Dec 2013 14:09:42 +0000

These tourists’ favorites have steamed through Europe and beyond -- but now they risk losing their traditional heart

Germany’s most successful recent export may be not a sleek new luxury saloon car or top of the line dishwasher, but something more down-to-earth: the Christmas market.

German-themed markets have steamed through Europe and beyond, leaving in their wake the debris of abandoned indigenous traditions and the lingering scent of gingerbread and mulled wine.

In Britain, clusters of Alpine-ish huts selling wooden toys, wurst and warm booze have become regular fixtures in London and other cities from Birmingham to Belfast.

"Frohe Weihnacht!” reads the glazed scrawl on a gingerbread morsel from one of the market's websites -- nary a sign of the more location-specific “Merry Christmas!”

Britain’s tabloid newspapers would surely be scrambling for puns rhyming with “huns” if only half their readers didn’t no doubt love this change from their standard Christmas fare.

Whereas previously a typical British festive season meant a department store splurge, a quick squeeze on “Santa’s” knee and a bout of indigestion, now you can be transported to a sweet-smelling seasonal wonderland after only a dawdle down to the town square.

More: 8 of the cutest winter scenes

'A plague'

In France, which normally celebrates Christmas in a downplayed, sophisticated sort of way, a Christmas market has bivouacked in the very center of the capital, on the Champs-Élysées.

“Yuk!” tweets the commentator on all things French Agnès Poirier of the tinsel-draped emplacement.

“The plague of pseudo-Christmas markets is spreading all over Europe.”

In the United States, Thanksgiving had better watch out as “Christkindlmarkts” pop up everywhere from Denver to Tomball, Texas, via Chicago.

For Americans, it may soon be not so much a matter of brushing up on "Away in a Manger" as learning "O Tannenbaum" from scratch.

Read: 15 up-and-coming ski resorts to check out this winter

Christmas-market world tour

For the Christmas market-loving tourist, a world tour beckons.

Implicit in the spread of the phenomenon is the idea that Germany “does” Christmas with peerless authenticity.

Yet, according to the British newspaper the Guardian, there may be something rotten in the state of the German Christmas market itself.

Travelers to the country expecting to find the crystalline essence of Christmas there may be disappointed.

Traditionalists have accused Germany's more than 3,700 Christmas markets of descending into “funfairs.”

The quaint "handmade" wooden stars and angels on sale as gifts, they charge, are increasingly mass-produced in Asia.

Sugary snacks are said to be edging out more wholesome seasonal staples.

Mulled wine stalls prefer to play techno rather than Christmas carols, the critics charge, while the shrieks from funfair rides threaten to drown out the markets’ usual mellow hubbub.

And, finally, the markets are shamefully opening earlier every year to cram in yet more shopping.

In its very bauble-bedecked heart, the Christmas market as refuge from crass modern commercialism appears to be falling victim to ... crass modern commercialism.

More: 20 most annoying things that people do on planes

Stuff-your-face-stalls shut

Fearing the total dissipation of the Christmas spirit, the market’s defenders are fighting back.

Munich is forcing Fressbuden (“stuff your face”) stalls out and upping the percentage of vendors selling Christmassy toys.

Mulled wine vendors are being made to sign contracts stating they'll only play appropriately festive music.

In Frankfurt, comedian Oliver Maria Schmitt, sick of Germany's “beautiful cities” being dressed up with “uniform wooden huts” and "wine-haters [being given] an excuse to get pissed on sugary plonk,” wants to turn the city into the first “Christmas market-free zone.”

For their part, the market organizers report how hard it is to find people willing to staff stalls through the bitter cold night, proffering only attractive wooden objects that people love to look at but hardly ever buy.

Some smaller German markets are even paying artisans to stand around looking traditional, the Guardian reports.

The stage seems set for a German seasonal set-to -- but could the controversy spread to Christmas market-loving countries beyond?

Do you seek out Christmas markets on your travels? Do they convey the true Christmas spirit? Tell us what you think in the comments below.

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Germany

Christmas

Insider Guide: Best of Toronto

Tue, 03 Dec 2013 16:20:17 +0000

It's not just Canada’s biggest city -- it's a standout international destination

Many in Canada complain that Torontonians have a center-of-the-universe attitude.

True or not, the city can cast a shadow over the rest of the country.

Home to 2.5 million people (5.5 million in the Greater Toronto Area) of more than 200 distinct ethnic origins, Toronto is one of the most multicultural cities in North America.

It’s an economic and social powerhouse with a vibrant bar, restaurant and arts scene, not to mention major league sports teams.

It’s a city of neighborhoods -- Chinatown, Little Italy, Queen West.

It’s a city of festivals -- the Toronto International Film Festival, Caribana, Gay Pride.

But above all, the best of Toronto is a great place to visit, a city full of promise and potential.

It’s a city of festivals -- the Toronto International Film Festival, Caribana, Gay Pride.

But above all, the best of Toronto is a great place to visit, a city full of promise and potential.

Hotels

Luxury

Superior Room at the Four Seasons Toronto.Four Seasons Toronto

This hotel towers over the city’s upscale Yorkville neighborhood, with its high-end shops and reputable restaurants.

The entrance and lobby walls are lined with wood. Decorative metal dividers stretch from floor to soaring ceiling.

Art designed to look like over-sized dandelion seed heads hovers above the check-in desk.

The hotel has 259 guest rooms, including 42 suites, all done up in cool contemporary grays and whites.

The spa is one of the best in Toronto, and the pool area is gorgeous.

Guests can congregate in the casual dbar or eat at Café Boulud, with a menu designed by Michelin-starred Chef Daniel Boulud.

There’s plenty to savor, like the inventive grapefruit givré, a mixture of sorbet, grapefruit segments and Turkish delight, topped with torched sesame cracker and wisps of halvah.

Four Seasons Toronto, 60 Yorkville Ave.; +1 416 964 0411; from C$435 ($410) per night

Four-star views within.

The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto

With its glossy wood, big brass maple leaves, neutral earth tones and original artwork, the Ritz-Carlton is a luxurious tribute to Canadiana.

The hotel’s 263 guest rooms, all at least 41 square meters, provide views of the CN Tower and Lake Ontario. Rooms on floors 18 to 20 have the views -- if you go lower than that, condos partially block the lake.

Bathrooms are decked out in marble, with deep tubs and in-mirror TVs.

One of the Ritz-Carlton’s best of Toronto restaurants, TOCA (short for Toronto, Canada), sports a menu filled with dishes made with only local, naturally raised ingredients.

Cutting-edge cocktails mixed at the DEQ Terrace and Lounge draw all sorts of customers, who are encouraged to dabble in mixology.

The Ritz-Carlton also lays out a customized wellness program, with experts who tailor everything from facials to fitness to the needs of each guest.

There are plush loungers in the co-ed Urban Sanctuary sunroom, which has a wide selection of tea and glossy magazines.

The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto, 181 Wellington St. W.; +1 416 585 2500; from C$425 ($400) per night

Refurbished royalty.

The Fairmont Royal York

The Royal York is the Grand Dame of Toronto’s hotel scene, an imposing stone and copper-roofed structure that’s firmly anchored in a sea of steel and glass. It’s been a star since it officially opened in 1929, a favorite for royalty, celebrities, movie directors and regular folk who want to soak up its Old World charm.

A C$100 million renovation that finished in 1993 helped keep the property in good shape.

Rooms have an elegant, Victorian style, with antique furniture, quilted bed covers and thick curtains and valance.

The Royal York is located across the street from the grand Union Station (and connected to it via underground walkway), Toronto’s main train station, which is also built in a neoclassical, Beaux-Arts style.

The Fairmont Royal York, 100 Front St. W.; +1 416 368 2511; from C$289 ($272) per night

Just don't say "hipster" and we'll get along fine.

SoHo Metropolitan

This contemporary hotel in a slick condominium complex is a short walk from the shops and restaurants on King West and Queen West, plus the bars and clubs in the Entertainment District.

SoHo's 92 guest rooms (55 square meters on average) feature ultra-soft Frette linens and towels, natural down duvets and bathrooms with deep tubs and heated floors.

Lights, blinds and the “do not disturb” sign can be manipulated by remote control. Thick windows block out sound, but guests have the option of opening them.

Big spenders can book the 370-square-meter penthouse suite, which has an in-suite glass elevator, two bedrooms, two fireplaces, a state-of-the-art kitchen, plus a rooftop terrace with a barbecue and an eight-seater hot tub.

The bakery/bar/restaurant Sen5es (get it?) is attached to the hotel, serving up baked goods and a solid menu, including a dinner deal for C$50 that provides one appetizer, one entrée and one dessert.

SoHo Metropolitan, 318 Wellington St. W.; +1 416 599 8800; from C$200 ($188) per night

More on CNNGo: World’s most expensive hotels

Boutique

Warm nights call for cool places.Thompson Toronto

Travelers who have spent a night in a Thompson Hotel in cities such as New York and Chicago will feel at home in this modern property, located in the burgeoning King West Village neighborhood.

The 102 guest rooms (some with balconies) have floor-to-ceiling windows, heated bathroom floors and unique lighting features, along with plasma TVs and iHome docking stations.

Orange and red accents stand out against the dark, hardwood floors.

The hotel's offer attributes include a 24-hour American-style diner, a rooftop bar and infinity pool, a 40-seat theater ideal for private film screenings, and the 1812 Lounge, named in cheeky commemoration of the war between the United States and Britain.

Thompson Toronto, 550 Wellington St.; +1 416 640 7778; from C$349 ($329) per night

Mid-range

The Grant Hotel's two-story neoclassical pool, flanked by hand-painted murals of the Garden of Versailles.The Grand Hotel & Suites Toronto

One of the best hotels in Toronto, dollar for dollar, the Grand's 177 suites are all done up to strike a tasteful, understated tone. They come with fully equipped kitchenettes and all the regular features -- TVs, CD and DVD players.

Guests can choose lake or city views.

When not soaking in the Grand's rooftop whirlpools, they can unwind in the spa, where prices for treatments are all reasonable.

The property is located in a part of the city that’s enjoying better days thanks to the expansion of a university, and is walking distance to theaters, shopping and restaurants.

Grand Hotel & Suites Toronto, 225 Jarvis St.; +1 416 863 9000; from C$219 ($206) per night (includes buffet breakfast)

Budget

This truly is a hotel "experience."Drake Hotel

Here's a home-away-from-home in Toronto’s trendy West Queen West neighborhood.

From the tiny Solo room to the extra-large Suite (and not forgetting the Crash Pads, Dens and Salons in between), the Drake Hotel is the perfect place for travelers looking for a more eclectic place to lay their heads.

But getting to bed early will be a challenge once you get a look at everything the Drake has to offer: a cool club for indie bands, DJs and film screenings; a raucous restaurant with a menu heavy on the meat, fruits de mer and comfort food options such as mac ‘n cheese; and a chill lounge, with a rotating art collection, culinary cook-offs, trivia and weekend oyster bar.

The best of Toronto rooftop Sky Yard is dubbed an “all-season space” by management (um, in Canada?), where patrons sip cocktails and roast marshmallows.

Drake Hotel, 1150 Queen St. W.; +1 416 531 5042; singles from C$169 ($159), doubles from C$189 ($178) per night

Dining

Your pan-Canadian trip starts here.Canoe

The “Masters of the Universe” from Bay Street (Toronto’s Wall Street) love to congregate here for power lunches, surrounded by custom wood and stone, from the carved walnut chandeliers to the soapstone bar.

Canuck celebrities also dine at Canoe (Neil Young, William Shatner).

But it really doesn’t matter who you are -- if you can afford the C$16-28 starters and the C$32-49 mains, you’re in. The menu is oh-so-Canada, coast-to-coast: Great Lakes pickerel, pan-seared Quebec foie gras, Alberta lamb, a selection of domestic wines.

The atmosphere can feel hip, relaxed or stuffy depending on the day and, perhaps, the company. The view of Lake Ontario is inspiring, the food even better.

Canoe, 66 Wellington St. W.; 54/F, TD Bank Tower; +1 416 364 0054; expensive

The restaurant is quick to tout its trout.Sassafraz

This restaurant, with its distinctive yellow exterior, has been a staple of the city’s Yorkville neighborhood for decades. Mick Jagger, Ron Wood, Robert De Niro and a host of other celebs have hung out here.

A fire gutted Sassafraz in 2006 and the owners spent millions of dollars rebuilding.

These days, they offer French-inspired Canadian cuisine: Ontario beets, Alberta bison, Nova Scotia Digby scallops, PEI beef.

The wine list shines the spotlight on domestic offerings, but is also heavy on French and Italian varieties. Guests of the nearby Four Seasons are treated to a complimentary glass of bubbly.

Sassafraz, 100 Cumberland St.; +1 416 964 2222; expensive

Paris of the 1930s meets fresh London coolBiff’s Bistro

The French-bistro feel hits you the minute you walk in the door.

It’s the décor. It’s the lively atmosphere. It’s the escargot, steak tartare, duck confit on the menu.

Biff’s gets even livelier in the warmer months, when managers open up the sizable street-side terrace.

The menus are designed to reflect the seasons and are filled with options both common (steak frites, filet mignon) and curious (crispy pig’s ears, lamb belly confit). The after-work crowd usually flocks here to enjoy $1 oysters, which are featured nightly from 5 p.m.

Biff’s has a dense wine list, but it’s also one of a number of restaurants in Toronto offering a bring-your-own-bottle option (corkage fee is $25 per bottle).

Biff's BIstro, 4 Front St. E.; +416 860 0086; expensive

Lightly smoked herring a l'huile with dijon potatoes.Edulis Restaurant

Edulis (Latin for edible) opened last year and quickly became one of the darlings of the restaurant scene, a place over which both diners and reviewers have been fawning.

“Pleasure bordering on delirium” gushed the Globe and Mail. “A perfect little place” hailed Toronto Life magazine. The owners “feed you wonderful food” noted former Gourmet Magazine editor in chief, Ruth Reichl.

The seafood- and vegetable-focused menu changes daily (you’ll also find duck, rabbit and other meats), and the kitchen staff work to tailor their five- and seven-course meals to the tastes of each diner, creating iterations of Nunavut wild Arctic char or sunflower hearts or king salmon.

Edulis is booked up weeks in advance, so you need to get your reservation in early.

Edulis Restaurant, 169 Niagara St.; +416 703 4222; reasonable

"Momofuku" means "lucky peach." Which means "momofuku" in English. Momofuku Noodle Bar

Toronto has been gripped by a ramen craze of late, and this downtown eatery is one of the best places in Toronto to get a steaming bowl of these Japanese noodles. It’s a sister restaurant of the establishment of the same name in New York.

Diners balance on tall stools or plunk themselves down on benches to twirl and slurp their way through lunch or dinner.

The list of toppings includes pork belly, fish cake, egg, kale, miso, shiitake and black bean.

Momofuku also offers a large fried chicken meal for groups, complete with scallion pancakes and pickled veggies.

Momofuku, 190 University Ave., ground floor; +1 647-253-8000; reasonable

Down-home Italian done right.Osteria Ciceri e Tria

This hole-in-the-wall, rustic Italian restaurant is centered on a long communal table, with smaller satellite tables.

The menu is filled with Pugliese food (fare from Italy’s “heel of the boot” region) and it changes daily, although the orecchiette con rapini and the orecchiette de farro make regular appearances.

Run by the same group that owns the city’s trio of Terroni restaurants, this is best of Toronto Italian done right, comfort food drenched in olive oil.

Osteria Ciceri e Tria, 106 Victoria St.; +1 416 955 0258; reasonable

A restaurant where good knives are essential. We like.

The Black Hoof

A haven for carnivores and foodies who love snout-to-tail eateries, the staff at The Black Hoof have been winning praise for their self-proclaimed “off-cut meat-centric menu” since 2008 (fish and veggie options also available).

The space is tight and reservations are verboten, so when it’s busy, you’ll have to wait in line.

Dishes range from beef tongue brioche to spicy horse tartar to roasted bone marrow. It all gets rave reviews, including, believe it or not, a carrot cake that’s topped with seared foie gras.

The owners also run the Hoof Cocktail Bar (923 Dundas St. W.; +1 416 792 7511), which serves custom cocktails (C$9-16), along with wine and cheese plates. And they’ve opened Rhum Corner, which offers Haitian cuisine (accra, griot, bananes frites) and plenty of rum-based beverages.

The Black Hoof, 928 Dundas St. West; +1 416 551 8854; reasonable

Aunties and Uncles

No big city is complete without a great place to grab breakfast or brunch, and Aunties and Uncles is one a best of Toronto fave.

The former barbershop, anchored in Toronto’s Kensington Market/Chinatown neighborhood, is old-school-American-diner meets hip-thrift-store, with Formica tables, vintage posters and action figure dolls.

The cool kids love to come here, and they even line up on weekends for a spot -- it’s quieter during the week.

The menu is designed to suit sweet or salty tastes, with banana oatmeal pancakes and Belgian waffles sharing top billing with omelets and breakfast tacos.

Best of all, everything is under C$10, with lattes and cappuccinos running C$3.

Aunties and Uncles doesn’t take reservations.

Aunties and Uncles, 74 Lippincott St.; +1 416 324 1375; affordable

How do you stay fresh for more than a decade? Keep updating.Fresh

Fresh started out in the 1990s as a mobile juice bar and has evolved into Toronto’s premier vegetarian and vegan restaurant, with four locations to its name.

Fresh's employees still blend up juices -- fruit smoothies, power shakes, immune elixirs, you name it -- but they also create Asian-inspired salads (Tangled Thai) and rice bowls (Buddha), not to mention a variety of meat-free burgers.

The sweet potato fries are a must. Ditto the desserts, which are vegan and change daily (you should hope for a carrot cake day -- no foie gras here).

Fresh, main location 326 Bloor St. W.; +1 416 599 4442; reasonable

Finally, a Thai place without a fit-to-be-Thai'd pun in the name.Salad King

Cherished by university students and working stiffs, Salad King is a Thai food-lovers paradise.

The layout is cafeteria style, with friends and strangers rubbing elbows at long tables. The food is fast and fresh. The menu is simple enough to memorize.

Everyone has their favorite dishes -- ours include the green chicken curry and the golden tofu curry. Word of warning: the spice quotient ranges from mild (a bit spicy) to 20 chilies (could set some stomachs aflame).

Salad King, 340 Yonge St.; +1 416 593 0333; affordable

Jet Fuel

Locals flock to Jet Fuel for good coffee, fresh pastries and a healthy dose of attitude. This café, located in the Cabbagetown neighborhood, is a favorite hangout for musicians, actors, dancers and bike couriers.

The music can be loud. The seating can be limited. But the coffee is always strong and reasonably priced.

Jet Fuel, 519 Parliament St.; +1 416 968 9982

Nightlife

The nightclub formerly known as This Is London.Product Nightclub

This club in the heart of the entertainment district is located inside an old factory building and offers what the designer calls an “art collector’s residence-meets-nightlife.” There’s a towering chandelier, a fireplace, outlandish paintings and murals, with the odd mannequin kicking around for good measure (Clockwork Orange tribute).

Product has all the requirements of your standard nightclub: DJs (some famous, some not-so-famous), great sound, frenetic lights, plenty of room to dance, bottle service, and a dress code to keep out those who prefer to wear t-shirts, baseball hats and sneakers. Go late, stay late.

Product, 364 Richmond St.; +1 416 351 1100; cover $10-30

Fly Toronto

Just steps away from Church Street, the backbone of Toronto’s gay village, Fly is an institution known for a range of weekly, monthly and special event nights.

Expect a mix of fit urban professionals grinding to Donna Summer numbers alongside an otherwise rather more varied crowd.

Fly Toronto, 8 Gloucester St.; +1 416 410 5426; cover C$10-20

Can this guy please tend every bar on the planet?

The Roof Lounge

Showcasing best of Toronto views, the Park Hyatt’s iconic Roof Lounge has been luring patrons to its perch above the city for decades.

It’s a favorite all year round, but is especially crowded during the Toronto International Film Festival. Leather chairs, dark suede walls and a fireplace help reinforce the 1940s/1950s feel. Drinks are pricey. Space is limited.

The Roof Lounge, 4 Avenue Rd.; +1 416 925 1234

Where Toronto goes to rock.

The Horseshoe Tavern

Toronto has a vibrant music scene and the legendary Shoe’s been one of the best venues to catch a live show since 1947.

The bar is at the front. The stage is at the back.

The decor (old wood, stickers from various bands) feels like an afterthought -- the Horseshoe's got too much cred to care.

Some of the best Canadian bands have jammed here. So have The Rolling Stones.

It’s a can’t-miss stop on a music-lover’s tour of Toronto.

The Horseshoe Tavern, 370 Queen St. W.; +1 416 598 4753; ticket prices vary

Also fine after losses.

Victory Cafe

An English-style pub that matches a tasty menu (burgers, fries, curries, pastas) with an even tastier drinks' list, filled with craft beer favorites.

Where else in the city can you get a pint of Flying Monkey Smashbomb Atomic IPA?

Victory Cafe is on a quiet, tree-lined street on the western edge of Toronto’s Annex neighborhood.

It’s simple, yet warm atmosphere provides the perfect location for friends to get together, catch up and share some laughs.

Victory Cafe, 581 Markham St.; +1 416 516 5787

Thanks to 7 West's business hours, it's always cake o' clock.7 West Cafe

This cafe/restaurant/lounge (open 24 hours a day, seven days a week) has been a funky after-hours staple for 20 years.

Wooden tables, chairs and benches are spread over a few several floors inside a narrow old house that drips with character.

Exposed brick, stained glass, chandeliers and heavy curtains help reinforce the late-night feel, with clouds painted on the ceiling to take the edge off.

The menu is filled with salads, sandwiches, pastas and appetizers, but it’s probably most popular for its pies and cakes.

7 West Cafe, 7 Charles St. W.; +1 416 928 9041

Shopping

Cool stuff abounds.Made

The people at Made offer independent Canadian designers a place to sell their creations.

The shop is the place for those interested in custom crafts or anyone on the hunt for an original gift.

Ceramics include porcelain creamers cast to resemble milk cartons and a light fixture formed by a stack of vintage china.

Then there’s the felt stool spool, the mouth-blown gray glass shades and the inside-out shadow clock. The list goes on.

Made, 867 Dundas St. W.; +1 416 607 6384; moderate to expensive

Workout facility for your credit card.Eaton Centre

This downtown mall, which occupies two full city blocks, lures 50 million visitors a year. The more than 230 stores and restaurants are spread out over five floors, including a sprawling basement food court.

Designers modeled the glass dome that runs the length of the center after the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II arcade in Milan.

A large mobile of Canada geese helps provide a sense of place.

Mall management added a more modern piece of art in 2011. Slipstream is a 135-meter LED installation that changes based on the movement of the sun and meteorological factors.

Eaton Centre is easily accessible by transit (TTC) -- streetcars, subways and buses stop here. It also has an entrance facing Yonge-Dundas Square, the Times Square of Toronto.

Eaton Centre, 220 Yonge St.; +1 416 598 8560

Big brands, good buys.Bloor-Yorkville

A short walk north from the Eaton Centre, you’ll find one of Toronto’s toniest shopping and dining districts.

Bloor-Yorkville has been going through a period of revitalization in recent years, with new buildings going up, parking lots turning into parks and sidewalks being beautified.

Visitors will have no trouble finding their fine fashion favorites, including Prada, Hugo Boss and Chanel, along with lower-cost options such as Banana Republic and Club Monaco.

They can also wander the back streets to discover small boutiques, art dealers, galleries and heritage buildings, stopping along the way to grab a coffee or eat in the many cafés and restaurants.

Bloor-Yorkville BIA (Business Improvement Area), bordered by Bloor Street West, Avenue Road, Davenport Road and Yonge Street; app available on iTunes

Hundreds of options.Queen West

Hundreds of retail outlets, restaurants, cafés and bars line Queen Street West. This neighborhood, between Simcoe and Bathurst Streets, once epitomized hip.

It’s still a cool place to stroll, shop and eat, but big brands such as H&M and Zara have moved in and changed the landscape.

The smaller boutique and fashion scene has moved west, spawning a neighborhood between Bathurst and Gladstone Avenue called West Queen West (home to one of our hotel picks, the Drake).

Shoppers heading here will stumble on gems such as bag and accessory maker A2ZANE, the recycled vintage fabric fashions of preloved and the mid-century modern furniture and design store Atomic Design.

Queen Street, West BIA, between Simcoe and Bathurst Streets.; West Queen West BIA, 789 Queen St. W.

Canada's "ethnic mosaic" on sale here.Kensington Market

The Canadian government designated Kensington Market a National Historic Site in 2006, calling it a "microcosm of Canada's ethnic mosaic."

People of all stripes have been coming to this neighborhood since the first wave of immigrants settled here in the mid-to-late 19th century.

Kensington is filled with eclectic shops, bakeries, restaurants of all flavors (Latin American, Jamaican, French, Thai) and grocery stores selling fruit, veggies, meat and spices.

Shoppers often drop by this neighborhood’s vintage clothing stores to try on old jeans, retro T-shirts and the odd fur coat.

Favorite haunts include Courage my Love (14 Kensington Ave.) and Exile (22 Kensington Ave.).

Kensington Market, west of downtown, bordered by Spadina Avenue, Dundas, Bathurst and College Streets.

Attractions

The highest man-made point in Canada. No Vancouver jokes, please.CN Tower

This 553-meter-high communications and observation tower has been marveled at and mocked since it opened in 1976. For years, it was the world’s tallest freestanding structure (finally bested by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai) and the world’s tallest tower (beaten by the Canton Tower in Guangzhou, China).

Its views of Toronto and Lake Ontario are still a draw.

It takes 58 seconds to zip up the 346-meter LookOut level (adults C$23.99, seniors C$21.99, children C$15.99). An extra C$10 will get you to the 447-meter SkyPod.

The CN Tower also gives visitors a chance to walk on the roof of its restaurant, which is 356 meters above the ground.

EdgeWalk tickets cost C$175 and include videos, photos and access to the rest of the tower.

CN Tower, 301 Front St. W.; +1 416 868 6937

Food, history, plenty more.St. Lawrence Market

Part food market, part flea market, the St. Lawrence Market is one of Toronto’s most treasured landmarks and institutions.

It opened in 1803 and has evolved from a wooden structure to a brick building, been rebuilt after fire, renovated and re-imagined.

Today, the market consists of three buildings: the South Market, the North Market and St. Lawrence Hall.

More than 120 vendors occupy the main floor and lower level of the South Market, selling fresh produce, meat and cheese, along with baked goods, coffee, clothes, jewelry, accessories and much more.

The North Market hosts a Farmers’ Market on Saturday, featuring seasonal produce from Southern Ontario. On Sunday, more than 80 antique dealers set up shop in the North Market and surrounding plaza.

St. Lawrence Market, 92-95 Front St. E.; +1 416 392 7120

If the NHL would stop with the lockouts and strikes, we'd show you some hockey.

Sports

Toronto's sports scene is solid, with a number of pro teams.

The Toronto Argonauts have been around the longest, one of eight clubs in the Canadian Football League (CFL). Their home is the Rogers Centre, which has a retractable roof (the building was formerly called the SkyDome). The CFL season runs from June until November.

The Toronto Blue Jays share the Rogers Centre with the Argos. The former back-to-back World Series champs play their regular Major League Baseball season from April until October.

This being Canada, you’ll find most sports fans are more interested in hockey. The Toronto Maple Leafs have been chasing pucks around since 1917, although they haven’t won a Stanley Cup since 1967. They play at the Air Canada Centre (regular season October-April), sharing the space with the NBA’s Toronto Raptors (regular season October-April) and the Toronto Rock lacrosse team (regular season January-May).

The latest addition to the city’s sports scene is the Toronto FC, which plays Major League Soccer at the BMO Field (season runs March to October).

Toronto swan song.Parks

Toronto has lots of green space, from the small to the sprawling.

High Park is the city’s largest public park. It's located on 1873 Bloor St. and easily accessed by subway, streetcar and bus. Along with trees and trails, it has a pond, sports facilities (tennis, baseball, soccer), picnic areas and a dog run. During the summer, a Shakespeare play is staged in its amphitheater.

Dufferin Grove Park (Dufferin Street between College and Bloor) feels like a true neighborhood green space and is well loved by locals. It’s easy to spend a day checking out its play structures and wading pool, baking pizza or bread in one of the public wood-fired brick ovens or picking up produce at the farmers’ market (Thursday).

Another favorite for outdoor activities are the Toronto Islands in Lake Ontario, a short ferry ride from the harbor front. Centre Island is the biggest in the chain, boasting the largest urban car-free community in North America. The Toronto Islands have parks, picnic areas, beaches (Hanlan’s Point is clothing-optional), an amusement park and more spread out over some 240 hectares.

Architecture

Toronto’s former leaders and officials have taken a lot of flak for allowing developers to do doing away with some of its architectural heritage.

The building boom of the 1950s and ‘60s led to the destruction of many 19th-century buildings. In the decades before that, two great fires (1849 and 1904) burned up big chunks of downtown.

In these days of condo creep, city planners are stricter about saving heritage buildings. They’ve also approved projects to renovate old sites or allowed new projects to go ahead, leading to yet another building boom.

Victorian style is at home here.The Old

Toronto is a relatively young city, so its heritage buildings were constructed in the 1800s and 1900s.

One of the oldest areas is the Fork York National Historic Site. The British built the fort in 1793 and rebuilt it after the Americans torched the place during the War of 1812. Visitors can tour the fort’s eight historic structures, and see musket and music demonstrations (250 Fort York Blvd.; +1 416 392 6907).

Toronto is home to a number of Victorian-style buildings, and many of them can be found in the neighborhood of Cabbagetown. Residents developed the area in the late 1800s. You can walk it on your own, or link up with Heritage Toronto for a free walking tour. You can get to Cabbagetown by taking the TTC 506 streetcar, which leaves College Station and runs along Carlton Street.

Casa LomaThe University of Toronto (27 King’s College Circle; +1 416 978 2011) contains a number of historic structures designed in Romanesque or Gothic Revival styles. University College, Soldiers’ Tower and Convocation Hall are three worth checking out.

Wandering amid the buildings and grounds of Trinity College, you may feel like you’re at Cambridge or Oxford. The Trinity College Chapel is considered one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in North America.

Casa Loma was once considered the most creative buildings on the continent. Some men want their home to be a castle, and Canadian millionaire Sir Henry Pellatt spent a fortune, and eventually went bust, turning his vision into reality. Casa Loma merges elements of Norman, Gothic and Romanesque-style architecture. The City of Toronto owns the property. Tours are available every day of the year, except December 25. Guided garden tours run from May 1 to October 31 (1 Austin Terrace; +1 416 923 1171).

Distillery District Cafe is a best of Toronto stop.The Restored

The Distillery District (55 Mill St.; +1 416 364 1177) started out as the Gooderham & Worts distillery in the 1830s. It produced millions of gallons of whiskey and spirits in its more than 150-year history, surviving a fire and a brief period of prohibition before shutting down in 1990.

After a stint in the 1990s as the top film location in Canada, developers renovated the complex and reopened it in 2003, giving new life to the largest and best-preserved collection of Victorian industrial architecture in North America. Its car-free, brick-lined streets and restored buildings are home to galleries, boutiques, cafés, restaurants, dance studios, a craft beer brewery and a sake brewery.

Looks even cuter after a few beers.

The people who run Steamwhistle Brewery (255 Bremner Blvd.; +1 416 362 2337) started fermenting their award-winning craft pilsner in 2000 in the historic John Street Roundhouse. The building, just south of the CN Tower, opened in 1929 as a steam locomotive repair facility. The environmentally friendly brewery runs tours and hosts events.

The Evergreen Brick Works (550 Bayview Ave.; +1 416 596 7670) is Canada’s first large-scale community and environmental center. The development is built on the site of the former Don Valley Brick Works. National Geographic named the Brick Works one of the top 10 geotourism destinations in the world in 2010. Visitors flock here to take part in interactive workshops (Bike Repair 101, urban gardening, cooking), tour the farmers’ market and watch environmental documentaries.

The New

Toronto’s landscape has been transformed over the past decade, with new buildings popping up and older ones getting facelifts.

One of the first buildings to open, in 2004, was the stunning Sharp Centre for Design at the Ontario College of Art and Design (100 McCaul St.; +1 416 977 6000), a table-top structure with “black-and-white pixelated skin.”

Another addition to the cityscape is the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts (145 Queen St. W.; +1 416 363 6671), with its sweeping glass-and-brick facade. Inside, more glass and plenty of wood enhance acoustics. The FSC was built specifically for opera and ballet and is home to the Canadian Opera Company and The National Ballet of Canada.

You can see the ROM (pictured) as part of a Toronto Society of Architects tour.

Two of the world’s best architects gave two of Toronto’s best-loved museums makeovers in recent years.

Daniel Libeskind re-imagined the exterior of the Royal Ontario Museum (100 Queen’s Park; +1 416 586 8000), home to dinosaur skeletons, armor, statues and a host of other exhibits.

Libeskind merged the old ROM building with what’s called the Michael-Lee Chin Crystal (named after the guy who donated C$30 million to the museum’s renaissance project). The interlocking structure, made of 25% glass and 75% extruded-brushed, aluminum-cladding strips, has transformed the museum and the street corner it occupies.

Not to be outdone, management at the Art Gallery of Ontario (317 Dundas St. W.; +1 416 979 6648) hired Toronto-born architect Frank Gehry, the mastermind behind the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao and the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, to redesign their building. The AGO’s new facade is made of gently curving glass and Douglas fir.

Other touches include an impressive sculptural spiral staircase in the new south wing.

More on CNNGo: Frank Gehry’s first China project

The Toronto International Film Festival has been around since 1976, but it only got a home befitting its global stature in 2010. The TIFF Bell Lightbox (350 King St. W.; +1 416 968 3456) is part cinematic culture center and part condo tower, home to five state-of-the-art cinemas, two galleries, three learning studios, retail space and restaurants.

The Toronto Society of Architects runs tours showcasing the TIFF Bell Lightbox, the ROM, the AGO and a number of other buildings in Toronto.

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Meet the Dubai mall hotel: A marriage made in retail heaven

sbusch — Mon, 02 Dec 2013 10:00:00 +0000

Dubai is taking the shop-stay concept to new heights -- literally

“I never think that people die. They just go to department stores,” quipped Andy Warhol.

Had he stayed around a little longer, he might have added, “… in Dubai.”

The emirate is not only one of the world’s great shopping locations, it’s also at the pointy end of a powerful consumer trend: the rise of the “shopping hotel.”

The growth of combined shopping malls and deluxe hotels either inside or adjoining them will be one of the Middle East’s top consumer developments in 2014 and beyond, predicts the market intelligence firm Euromonitor.

Many cashed-up travelers come to Dubai primarily to shop. Stay at the mall and they save time and taxi rides. And they don't have to lug all those glossy shopping bags back to their hotel.

The arrangement is just as sweet for hoteliers and retailers.

Both seek the same high-end traveling clientele -- why not share them?

Mall-hotel combos already exist in Dubai from the utilitarian to the seriously luxurious.

However, even more lavish couplings are on the drawing board -- including the world’s tallest hotel-shopping extravaganza.

The Address, Dubai Mall

Nice Address ... next to the world's largest shopping mall.The Address jealously guards its position adjoining Dubai Mall, the world’s largest, where it opened in 2009.

Since then, no other hotel has been granted development permission so close to this retail sanctum.

The superlatives continue within the 1,200-shop, 50 football field-sized space, including the world’s largest gold souk.

Wandering about the multi-story complex, you run into sheiks with prayer beads in one hand and cell phone and chunky gold Rolex in the other.

More: The UAE's most outrageously luxurious hotel suites

Their wives have enough shopping bags lining their arms to fill the backstage clothing rack at a Paris haute couture show.

For the owners of The Address and Dubai Mall, it’s the perfect symbiosis -- even if the guests get lost for a while, they’ll only end up doing more shopping.

The Address, Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai, PO box 31166; +971 4 438 8888; doubles from $462

Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates

Is it a mirage? Dubai Ski.When the Pullman at the Mall of the Emirates closed earlier this year, the hotel simply changed its skin and became a Sheraton.

The 481-room hotel flags its sleep-and-shop options on its website right next to the sweeping city views and hi-tech suites.

The mall offers more than 560 fashion, electronics and other luxury retail brands, as well as diversions including Ski Dubai (yes, an indoor ski resort in this desert city) and Vox Cinemas.

There are few human needs that can’t be satisfied in either hotel or mall and there’s little reason to leave either -- many guests probably don’t.

Along with 46-inch LCD high-definition TVs, the hotel touts its proprietary Sweet Sleeper beds.

With a pressure point-easing design, they’re supposedly good for curing jet lag -- so you’re ready to hit the tills at your best.

If you really like the bed, you can buy one (starting from $995) and have it shipped home.

Of course you can -- this is Dubai.

Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates, 1 Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Road, al Barsha; +971 4 377 2000; doubles from $230

Pullman Dubai Deira City Center

The Pullman: Fly in, shop, fly out.The Pullman Dubai Deira City Center is conveniently located about 15 minutes from the airport and about two minutes, via an underground passage, from the City Center mall.

Truly fly-in, fly-out shopping, it sketches the shape of much to come in Dubai.

Read: 9 of Dubai's most original eateries

The suites are rather sober affairs with views of spaghetti junctions and golf courses.

The mall, once Dubai's largest, now has a rather shopworn feel, but its 370 stores -- including a Carrefour superstore and Gap and H&M outlets -- are enough to satisfy most of the 20 million shoppers each year who don’t have a portion of the world’s oil reserves to fuel their spending.

Pullman Dubai Deira City Center, Deira, Dubai; +971 4 294 1222, doubles from $217

BurJuman Arjaan by Rotana

The BurJuman promises boutique shopping with your room key.Adjoining the BurJuman Arjaan by Rotana hotel, the Burjuman Mall aims for a boutique feel.

The hotel is the place to stay if you find Dubai Mall too overwhelming but still want branches of Saks Fifth Avenue, Chanel, Cartier, Louis Vuitton and Valentino a stroll away.

With separate living area, kitchenette, laundry and balcony, the brightly decorated suites provide for many of a traveler's needs.

The small but well-chosen selection of outlets in the mall’s food court include Japanese, Indian and Italian options.

If you want to work off the excess afterwards, robotic-looking machines in the hotel gym look as if they’ll do the exercise for you.

Another part of the complex, the Burjurman metro station lets mall junkies whizz off to yet more Dubai shopping experiences.

BurJuman Arjaan by Rotana, Sheikh Zayed Rd, Trade Center, Dubaija, Dubai; +971 4 352 4444; suites from $190

More malls, more hotels

Only in Dubai ... world's tallest hotel planned for Dubai Marina.Scheduled for completion at the end of 2014, Dream Dubai in the Marina District will be the second tallest building in the emirate and the tallest hotel in the world.

Adjoining the Marina Mall, the 432-meter, 101-floor waterside tower will be a mix of hotel rooms and service apartments, plus a pool, gym and squash courts -- and a nightclub where the penthouse would go if you could actually see anything from up there.

What, no mall?

Until now the Palm Jumeirah, Dubai’s palm-shaped artificial archipelago beloved of top-flight sports and film stars, has been mall-bereft.

But not for long.

More: 6 exotic Dubai escapes

The Nakheel Mall and Hotel Complex is planned for completion by the end of 2016.

Occupying the central trunk of the palm tree, the development will include a 50-story, 5-star, so far unnamed hotel.

Palm Jumeirah -- shockingly mall-free.Finally, in true Ben Hur fashion, Dubai is trying for a new mall record.

Set in sprawling Downtown Dubai grounds, the Mall of the World will attempt to steal the leviathan-mall title from the Dubai Mall.

"The current [mall] facilities available in Dubai need to be scaled up in line with the future ambitions for the city," Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, emir of Dubai, said rather improbably of the plan.

To cope with the projected 80 million shoppers visiting each year, 100 hotels are planned for the development.

This article was amended on December 3, 2013 to correct the minimum price of the BurJuman Arjaan's suites.

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Macau nightlife: The city's 3 top clubs face off

hiufu — Mon, 02 Dec 2013 09:11:36 +0000

The world's priciest cocktail, the most lavish dance floor or an exclusive Chinoiserie club. Here's how to stay out late in Macau

Partyers in Macau can be split into three groups: those who travel there for big name DJs at Club Cubic; the local well-heeled crowd who compete for attention at China Rouge; and a mix of tourists and locals looking for a big night at Lion’s Bar till the small hours.

We've pitted the three stalwarts of Macau nightlife against each other and stacked up their best assets.

More: 10 must-try Macau foods

Club Cubic

Being a Cubican means partying with Steve Aoki in the most extravagant club in Macau.The Club

Macau’s biggest club in both hype and space, Club Cubic is a 2,800-square-meter monster of curved walls, colored light projections and champagne-peddling.

The HK$100 million ($13 million) interior was designed by Bosco Lam and includes a bar area with Gothic styling, a two-tier performance stage and five VIP rooms, each in a different theme.

Asia’s only Perrier-Jouët champagne bar is found within, dispensing rare PJ vintages.

Wow factor: 5/5

Club Cubic is a fully functioning performance venue hosting some of the biggest names in the industry.

Since opening in April 2011 with headlining act Flo Rida, the club has brought to its stage PSY, LMFAO, Steve Aoki and DJ Jazzy Jeff.

The latest draw is TABOO, a limited-run cabaret concept by Franco Dragone of Saltimbanco and House of Dancing Water fame, which presents world-class circus skills with a sexy tone (lots of leather).

Write home about: 3/5

“I was dancing next to [insert name of party circuit celeb famous for being famous, eg. Paris Hilton]!”

Club Cubic, Hard Rock Hotel complex, City of Dreams, Cotai, Macau; +852 6638 4999. Advance ticket booking required for TABOO.

Total score: 8/10

More on CNN: Macau's kung fu coffee master

China Rouge

Is this a club or the set of Wong Ka Wai's "In the Mood for Love?"The Club

A nightlife venue that attempts to do it all, China Rouge combines an art gallery, chill lounge, cabaret stage and raucous club all in one.

At half the size of Club Cubic, China Rouge packs a punch in a relatively modest space.

It's billed as an exclusive members-only club, but non-members who arrive looking like a million bucks will be considered for entrance (no flip flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts allowed for men).

Many performers take the stage for short sets throughout the night at China Rouge, ranging from singers to contortionists.

A quiet lounge area offers competently made classic cocktails.

Wow factor: 5/5

Alan Chan, one of Asia’s most respected designers, did the interiors at China Rouge and his passion for this project is evident.

Chan strikes a difficult-to-achieve balance between attention-grabbing stunts (lots of depictions of nipples) and pure glamor.

Taking cues from art deco and 1920s Shanghai, Chan has filled the space with deep shades of red and plenty of lattice screens framing stunning works of art by leading contemporary artists, commissioned for the club.

Photographer Chen Man’s interpretation of “The Heavenly Kings” is installed near the entrance, greeting guests with powerful depictions of nude goddesses.

Chinese-Kiwi artist Deng Xinli painted a surreal “Goddess in Cloudy Ship” that fills an entire wall.

One of the cocktail bars is decked out in illustrations by famed Hong Kong comic artist Ma Wing-shing, using stained glass.

Write home about: 3.5/5

Whether you like it or not, you’ll be gaping at the risque art in China Rouge and a chat with the knowledegable staff helps you take home an informed decision on whether it was any good or not.

Total score: 8.5/10

China Rouge, Galaxy Macau, Estrada da Baía de Nossa Senhora da Esperança, COTAI, Macau; +853 2888 0888

More on CNN: Macau's best casinos: Where to gamble, where to let loose?

Lion’s Bar

Doesn't get more luxurious than ordering a "Winston" cocktail at Lion's Bar.The Club

The MGM’s signature bar and Macau’s unofficial after-party venue, Lion’s Bar is a gaudy party hall with a live stage and well-stocked bar that serves the “Winston,” the Guinness World Record holder for the most expensive cocktail at MOP 94,880 ($11,880), made with Croizet 1858.

Wow factor: 3/5

Lion’s Bar is known for its amazing cover band and its crowd on the dance floor, manes loose and hands waving like they just don’t care.

It’s where you go to down Long Island Iced Tea and sing along with the band because they'll keep playing hits that everybody knows and loves.

Write home about: 5/5

You'll wake up remorseful over drinking too much and using that pickup line/doing that dance move you swore you'd never repeat after some infamous incident in 1989.

Total score: 8/10

Lion’s Bar in MGM Macau, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau; +853 8802 2375

More: 10 things to know before visiting Macau

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However, CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

Macau restaurants: 5 top spots for Macanese cuisine

hiufu — Thu, 28 Nov 2013 22:00:00 +0000

Portugal might be long gone but its influence lives on with Macanese food, a mashup of Chinese and Portuguese flavors

A delicious byproduct of Macau's former status as a Portuguese colony, Macanese cuisine is often described as a mix of Portuguese and Chinese flavors, with influences from other Portuguese speaking nations thrown into the mix.

On an ingredient level, many dishes star bacalhau, salted cod that is soaked in water before being grilled. Dishes are presented simply, to impress purely with flavor.

Ready for a taste?

Restaurante Albergue 1601

The closest Portuguese experience you'll find outside Portugal.Part of the appeal of this restaurant is its location in a charming colonial courtyard in a quiet area of Macau.

Dining on the wooden deck under dappled sunlight through large trees facing attractive old buildings, the sounds of Portuguese music wafting on the air, makes you feel as if you are in Portugal.

The Portuguese and Macanese cuisine served here is more refined in terms of plating and portion sizes, making it a good option for diners who want to embrace the cuisines at a gentler pace.

Recommendations include the classic deep-fried salted cod balls. Here the fish is mild in taste, with potato as the driving flavor.

The stuffed squid is superb. Exquisitely tender, the three small squids are stuffed with minced pork prepared in tomato and paprika, making it an umami-rich dish.

For mains you can't go wrong with the African chicken.

The moist, barbecued half chicken is mostly deboned and coated with a spicy coconut and paprika sauce and served with an even spicier sauce on the side.

A good range of Portuguese wines are available.

Restaurante Albergue 1601, 8 Calçada da Igreja de S. Lazaro, Macau; mid-priced; +853 2836 1601

More on CNN: 10 must-try Macau foods

Riquexo

No frills dining by Macau's godmother of Macanese cuisine.Riquexo is run by a former chef who is sometimes referred to as the "Godmother of Macanese cuisine." She's now in her 90s.

This charming but simple cafe is located in a side lane, so you don't come for the view, you come for the traditional family-style Macanese dishes, which have been attracting regular diners for decades.

The grilled sardines are sensational, deftly seasoned with a lightly crispy skin.

Also good is minchi, a savory minced pork and potato dish with a touch of soy, eaten with steamed rice. Humble, but delicious, the bacalhau a bras, consists of salt cod in scrambled egg with onion, garlic a hint of coriander and drizzle of olive oil.

The wine is cheap and cheerful and the beers cold, best for lunch.

Riquexo, 69 Avenida Sidonio Pais, Macau; budget; +853 2856 5655

More on CNN: Macau's kung fu coffee master

O Santos

Little has changed in this homey bistro since it opened in 1989. The decor might be dated, but the food is as good as ever. This Portuguese restaurant opened in 1989.

It would appear little has changed, with the original owner still welcoming customers. The old-fashioned decor and photo-based menu have certainly seen better days.

Regulars return for dishes such as the vibrant octopus salad. Impressively tender, the octopus pieces are paired with onion, garlic, coriander and green olives, dressed with a vinaigrette.

The cod fish balls can be ordered on an individual basis, and the balance between the fish and the other ingredients is great.

Duck rice, baked with a butter crust and contains bone-in pieces of duck, is a homey and satisfying option. The grilled dishes and seafood rice cooked and served in an earthenware pot are also popular.

For dessert, we recommend the milk cream. Similar to creme brulee, this divine dish features notes of vanilla and cinnamon, finished with a charred sugar top for textural contrast.

The wine list is limited; sangria and Portuguese beer seem to be the preferred choices.

O Santos, 20 Rua do Cunha, Taipa; mid-priced; +853 2882 5594

More on CNN: Macau's best casinos: Where to gamble, where to let loose

A Petisqueira

When in Macau, grilled bacalhau is a must-try.An intimate Portuguese restaurant with two outdoor tables, A Petisqueira has a relaxed feel and attentive service.

We love the fresh homemade cheese, which is prepared daily. Soft and creamy and spread on bread with a little olive oil, it's a good way to kick off a meal.

Menu classics include the caldo verdhe, a potato and kale soup served with two slices of grilled Portuguese sausage that benefits from a swirl of oil, giving the broth more depth.

The menu features many grilled and bacalhau choices, including the grilled codfish. The fish, topped with garlic, has a crunchy exterior, is moist inside and is served with an oven baked potato, green olives and a touch of olive oil.

There are a good selection of Portuguese wines, including half bottle options.

A Petisqueira, 15C Rua de S Joao, Taipa; mid-priced; +853 2882 5354

More on CNN: 10 things to know before visiting Macau

Miramar

Seafood cataplana, a traditional Portuguese dish. With only a curtain of pine trees between the terrace and the beach, this restaurant offers a holiday feel. The menu of Portuguese dishes is comprehensive, with many designed for sharing.

Be warned, the portions are generous. The classic pipis might just convert traditional offal haters.

The smooth chicken liver and soft gizzards are served in a layered and rich tomato-based sauce. The stuffed crab is another great choice, with lots of sweet crab meat, plus cheese and garlic, served with toasted baguette.

Although the seafood cataplana isn't served in the traditional cooking vessel, it's packed with crab, prawns, mussels, clams and scallops. The broth, made from a shell-based stock with tomatoes and a touch of coriander, gives the dish added depth.

A recommendation from the manager was for the grilled pork secretos (secret cut of pork). The meat was almost fork tender -- basic but fantastic.

Miramar, Zona Norte da Praia de Hac Sac, Coloane; +853 2888 2623

More on CNN: House of Dancing Water: Secrets behind the world's biggest water show

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However, CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

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China opens futuristic airport terminal

hiufu — Thu, 28 Nov 2013 02:00:00 +0000

A flying ray? A trapped spaceship? No, it’s Shenzhen’s new airport terminal

Unhinge your jaw -- Shenzhen Bao’an International Airport’s avant garde and eco-friendly new terminal is now open for fliers.

The futuristic building in the southern Chinese city replaces three airport terminals, which ceased operation on Wednesday following three test runs of the new facility.

Shenzhen's new terminal, designed by FUKSAS, an Italian architectural firm, resembles a mobula, commonly known as a flying ray.

The connection? The Chinese word for "blessed" sounds like "mobula."

The new terminal -- which reportedly cost 8.5 billion yuan ($1.4 billion) to construct -- is three times larger than the current terminals combined, providing 76 airplane slots.

Although it's far from being the biggest in China -- Beijing’s new Terminal 3 is about twice as large -- the 451,000-square-meter new terminal in Shenzhen, which is about 40 kilometers from Hong Kong, could very well be one of its greenest.

The terminal has 200 check-in counters and approximately 200 shops.

The first flight from the terminal, operated by Shenzhen Airlines, is scheduled to depart for Hohhot in Inner Mongolia, via Wuhan, on Thursday morning.

More: Boeing through the ages: Planes that changed the way we travel

The honeycomb-patterned windows in the ceiling allow for maximum penetration of sunlight, reducing energy consumption.

Rainwater is collected and recycled in toilets and used to water indoor plants.

It's the first airport in China to feature a 10-megawatt solar power plant, which cranks out enough power to support 10,000 U.S. households per month.

Other interesting features include 116 white tree-shaped air conditioners that blend in with the terminal's interior design. The A/C trees pull triple duty, also serving as the public address system and fire equipment.

Future airport developments

“The only regret of this project would be that the subway line won’t be completed together with the terminal,” said Shenzhen transport commission spokesman Huang Min at the launch press conference.

The old terminals remain connected to the city with subway line number 1.

A subway line that will connect the new terminal to the city won’t be ready until 2016.

The airport and the transportation commission are looking into building a temporary line between the current terminals and the new terminal. The journey would take about 25 minutes.

More on CNN: Futuristic London airport proposed for island in middle of Thames

A five-star airport hotel with 404 rooms is still under construction.

The future of the current terminals hasn't been decided, but ideas on the table include converting them into shopping centers, exhibition centers and terminals for business jets or low-cost carriers, according to Zhang.

“The new terminal in Shenzhen will serve a different market than Hong Kong and Guangzhou (the two other major airports in the region),” said William Zhang, a marketing officer with Shenzhen Bao’an International Airport.

“Shenzhen has been serving as the hub for China’s domestic air transport.”

Shenzhen Bao’an international Airport opened in 1991.

Last year, the airport transported more than 29 million passengers and more than 855,000 tons of cargo.

With an 18% growth per year, the new two-runway terminal is expected to handle 45 million passengers and 2 million tons of cargo annually.

More on CNN: Breathtaking photos of Hong Kong airport glory days

Ryanair cleared for takeoff to Russia

sbusch — Wed, 27 Nov 2013 14:43:25 +0000

Irish carrier may follow other budgets already blazing trail in Russian airspace

Ryanair, Europe’s largest budget airline, looks set to follow other low-cost carriers into Russian airspace by launching flights to Moscow and St. Petersburg early next year.

Russia’s aviation authority has granted the Irish carrier permission to fly from Dublin to Russia beginning in March 2014, Bloomberg reports.

However, the airline was still in negotiations over which airports it could potentially use in Russia, Ryanair said.

“Ryanair has had discussions with a number of Russian airports, but they are purely exploratory at this time,” the airline’s spokesman, Robin Kiely, said in a brief statement.

Domodevo Airport, to which Ryanair’s competitor easyJet currently flies, was the most likely candidate for the Russian capital, The Moscow Times said.

Third low-cost carrier to Russia

Ryanair would be the third low-cost carrier to launch flights from Europe to Russia.

In March, easyJet began flying to Moscow from London and Manchester.

Hungarian carrier Wizz Air launched flights to the Russian capital in September.

Two Russian operators, the once-derided Aeroflot and Utair, also recently announced plans to launch budget subsidiaries flying within Russia.

More: Airlines prepare for possible inflight cell phone calls

Budget airlines have been put off launching Russian routes in the past by the country’s aviation laws, which prohibit non-refundable tickets, charging for meals and hiring of cheaper non-Russian pilots -- all important elements of the low-cost airlines’ business model.

Such restrictions partly explain the demise of two short-lived Russian budget airlines launched in the past decade, SkyExpress and Avianova.

However, recent backing by Russian president Vladimir Putin for budget flights may be taken as a sign of encouragement by those seeking to change the laws governing airlines flying within Russia.

‘No open-skies policy’

At present, Ryanair is restricted to flying to Russia from one city only -- Dublin.

“This is a bilateral agreement between Ireland and Russia so it’s no open-skies policy,” Alexander Kazbegi, a transport analyst, told Bloomberg.

“If Ryanair wants to fly from other European locations, they need to approach governments there to do a deal with Russia.”

The airline’s entry into the budget Russian club will be taken as good news by travelers who have been discouraged from visiting the country by air fares that have long been relatively expensive.

Travelers to Russia will still have to contend with a famously headache inducing visa-application process, which can take up to a month, requires an invitation from a Russian “host” and includes fees of up to $450.

More: 20 most annoying things that people do on planes

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10 of the best rooftop bars in London

sbusch — Mon, 25 Nov 2013 10:00:00 +0000

Top drinking spots with bird's eye views of one of the world's greatest cities

London does pubs and pints famously well but you can increasingly add rooftop bars to the superlatives list, too.

True, summer lasts only about two weeks here but that hasn’t dampened the enthusiasm for an alfresco cocktail or two -- most of these spots are open year-round with outdoor heaters and cozy blankets if you want to leave the sheltered inside space.

These 10 panoramic places will be among the best perches in town for New Year revels.

Queen of Hoxton, East London

Queen of Hoxton -- upper crust.Located in the heart of Hipsterville with an uninspiring view of surrounding office blocks, this rooftop is a magnet for East London’s creative crowd.

There are fire pits and a toasty tipi in winter and BBQs, frozen cocktails and guest DJs when the sun is shining.

Screenings of cult films sell out in hours, so keep an eye on the bar's Facebook and Twitter pages to score a coveted ticket.

Food and drink menus change with the seasons. Right now the Pumpkin Spiced Cider ($8.80) and DIY toasted marshmallows ($1.60) hit the spot.

Queen of Hoxton, 1-5 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, EC2A 3JX; +44 20 7422 0958; open daily, year-round

Radio Rooftop Bar, central London

Indoor glass atrium and warming cocktails make this a top winter spot.A newcomer to the city’s rooftop scene, Radio is among the swankiest.

It’s the crowning glory of a five-star hotel that was once the headquarters of the BBC.

Ten floors up in the heart of Theaterland, the wide terrace either side of the glass-walled bar lets you tick off most London landmarks.

A cosmopolitan post-work/pre-theater crowd mingles with well-heeled hotel guests, so you should dress to impress (no sportswear allowed for men).

Seasonal cocktailslike the Autumn Sundown with Gin Mare, vanilla, basil and apple ($19) are great.

Radio Rooftop Bar, 336-337 The Strand, Aldwych, WC2R 1HA; +44 20 7395 3440; open daily, year-round

Madison, City of London

Saintly sipping with St. Paul's in the background.Sipping is a spiritual affair at this City of London bar, with a large outdoor terrace overlooking the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral.

There are 150 different wines to choose from and a good range of beers, spirits and cocktails. But the signature drink is a Pornstar Martini with vanilla vodka ($17.60).

The mini-cheeseburgers with blue cheese and bacon ($14.40) are a manageable bite with drink in hand or you can take a table at the classy restaurant serving up European fare.

Come 5 p.m., it’s wall-to-wall City boys, while the weekend attracts a mixed crowd of tourists and locals.

Madison London, 1 New Change, St Paul’s, EC4M 9AF; +44 20 8305 3088; open daily, year-round

More: Futuristic London airport proposed for Thames island

Boundary, East London

Boundary: British weather-proof.Sitting atop a converted Victorian warehouse, this is one of the city’s most stylish rooftops.

Wicker chairs and white cushions create a relaxed Mediterranean vibe, while the new weatherproof pergola means the infamous British weather won’t bother you one bit.

Classic cocktails are all around $15, or there are pitchers to share. The zingy Rooftop Garden with lemon vodka and apple brandy ($38) feels appropriate.

You can nibble on olives or go for something more substantial from the all-day menu of seafood, char-grilled steaks and salads (available until 9.45 p.m.).

Boundary, 2-4 Boundary Street (entrance on Redchurch Street), Shoreditch, E2 7DD; +44 20 7729 1051; open daily, year-round

The Big Chill House, King’s Cross

Creative student types call this place home in increasingly cool King's Cross.

This large Victorian pub in King’s Cross is a maze of different floors, with funky decor, rocking DJs and sweaty 20-somethings from nearby Central Saint Martins College predominating.

There’s a good selection of craft beers, spirits and cocktails, plus tasty bar bites such as chili popcorn prawns with sweet chili dip ($6.50).

The rooftop closes at midnight on the weekends, but downstairs stays thumping until 3 a.m.

Big Chill House, 257-259 Pentonville Road, King’s Cross, N1 9NL; +44 20 7427 2540; open daily, year-round

Vista, central London

Vista ... has a sweeping one, especially come New Year's Eve.Perched on top of The Trafalgar hotel in Trafalgar Square, the newly refurbished Vista has one cracker of a view -- and one of the best New Year’s parties in town.

The ambitiously priced drinks list is dominated by Champagne and creative cocktails.

The Movista is a blend of Jamaican rum with a touch of cherry wine and fresh lime juice, topped up with soda ($19).

With its monochrome furnishings and sophisticated air, Vista attracts a suited-and-booted crowd and cashed up tourists looking to escape the hubbub below.

The Trafalgar, 2 Spring Gardens, Trafalgar Square, SW1A 2TS; +44 20 7870 2900; open daily from April to October but also open on New Year’s Eve for the Thames-side fireworks display; $7 cover charge after 4 p.m.

More: 7 hot new London hotels

Upper Deck, Southwark

Being British, this rooftop bar comes with cream tea and scones.Opened in April 2013, this terrace overlooking the Thames has glorious views of Tower Bridge, the Tower of London and World War II warship HMS Belfast.

Considering it’s in prime tourist territory, prices are reasonable, with more than a dozen wines on offer, plus bottled and tap beer and the usual spirits.

You could embrace all things British with a cream tea -- scone, clotted cream and jam ($8) -- or share a local cheese board with fruity chutney and artisan bread ($23).

You’re unlikely to hear a local accent during the day, but come evening time it’s packed with post-work punters.

Upper Deck, HMS Belfast Visitor Center, The Queen's Walk, Southwark, SE1 2JH; +44 20 7403 6246; open daily from March to November

Dalston Roof Park, East London

AstroTurf meets gritty inner city.There’s no real view (unless you count a sloping roof of solar panels), but this AstroTurfed pop-up atop a four-story former factory is the ultimate hipster hangout and a great stop to plan for once winter clears away.

It’s not as pretentious as it sounds, though, with a casual neighborhood vibe and DJs, stand-up comedy and classic films.

A team of local volunteers tends to grow-bags of herbs, fruits and veg that are blended to make yummy cocktails (from $10).

There’s also well-priced wine, beer and cider served in plastic cups and a changing line-up of street food stands.

Dalston Roof Park, 18 Ashwin Street, Dalston, E8 3DL; +44 20 7275 0825; open daily from May-September; one-off membership fee of $5

Frank’s Campari Bar, South London

Multi-story car park becomes hipster central.Who would’ve thought a multi-story car park in a nondescript South London suburb could be the site of one of the capital’s coolest bars?

Part sculpture project, part seasonal pop-up, Frank’s is one of the biggest -- and cheapest -- rooftops in town.

You can choose from Campari cocktails($8), local Meantime beer ($7) and a simple wine list -- it’s just white, red or rosé at Frank’s.

Then there's grilled sweetcorn ($4) to munch on while you admire the city skyline, including the Shard skyscraper, from afar.

Frank’s, Level 10, Peckham Multistory Car Park, 95a Rye Lane, Peckham, SE15 4ST; open Wednesday-Sunday during summer

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Kuala Lumpur shopping: 10 best places to bag a bargain

karlac1 — Sun, 24 Nov 2013 22:00:00 +0000

With more malls than you can shake a shopping bag at, KL is Southeast Asia's retail capital

From the massive malls that line Bukit Bintang to the backstreet stalls of Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur is a shopaholic’s dream.

But if you’re in town for only a few days, deciding where to start can be rough.

Here's a look at the top 10 places to shop in Kuala Lumpur.

The Curve

The Curve is a popular venue for KL expats. Its most recent foreign import? Johnny Rockets. It might be located way out in west KL, but The Curve beats many of its competitors with its indoor/outdoor layout, range of al fresco dining and pedestrianized walkways.

Add to the mix Kuala Lumpur’s only Ikea, as well as an adjoining Tesco, and you have the most family-friendly mall in town.

This explains why it fills up on weekends with parents pushing strollers.

But there’s still ample room to shop.

For eating, almost every Malaysian favorite can be found, including branches of Pappa Rich, Little Penang Cafe and Secret Recipe.

The Curve, 6 Jalan PJU 7/3, Mutiara Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Selangor; +60 (0)3 7710 6868

More on CNN: World's 12 best shopping cities

Mid Valley Megamall

Mid Valley Megamall, open in 1999, is one of the world's largest retail spaces. While it can’t match Bukit Bintang malls for high-end luxury, Mid Valley is one of KL’s most popular malls for its abundance of affordable shopping -- not to mention a huge array of stores and restaurants (430 and counting), 18-screen cineplex, large Metrojaya and Aeon department stores and exhibition center.

There are two food courts, but those in the know head to Oasis on the second floor, where the prices are cheap, and food more authentic.

If you really need an upmarket fix, you can walk across the connecting passageway to The Gardens Mall.

Mid Valley Megamall, Mid Valley City, Lingkaran Syed Putra, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 2938 3333

More on CNN: 10 best islands for a Malaysia holiday

Royal Selangor

If you're into tin-based alloys -- and who isn't? -- Royal Selangor is the go-to joint for pewter in KL. A huge tankard -- with what appears to be foam overflowing from its brim -- stands at the entrance to the head office of Royal Selangor, one of Malaysia’s most iconic companies.

At the KL visitor’s center, you can learn how to make your own pewter dish at the School of Hard Knocks (RM60).

If you just want to explore, there are free guided tours that take you through the company’s history (it was founded by young Chinese pewtersmith in 1885), the science behind making the alloy and a factory tour.

Naturally, there's a gift shop for those who want to pick up a souvenir. This is a shopping list, after all.

Royal Selangor Visitor Centre, 4, Jalan Usahawan 6, Setapak Jaya, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 4145 6122

More on CNN: Malaysia travel: 10 things to know before you go

Berjaya Times Square

New York has one, as does Hong Kong, so it only makes sense that KL -- arguably Southeast Asia’s shopping capital -- has a Times Square.

Highlights include Malaysia’s largest indoor theme park, split between family-friendly and adult-only rides; a Taipei-style night market on the third floor, complete with flashing neon signs, manholes and food stalls; and the Grand Musical Stairs, where you can pretend to be Tom Hanks in the movie "Big," as you make your own music on giant keys.

All this and much more in what claims to be the world’s ninth largest building in terms of floor space.

Berjaya Times Square, 1 Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 2117 3111

Petaling Street Market

"These Rolexes are a steal!" It might be a little cheesy, with its Disney-esque Chinese arch and blue covered walkway, but Petaling Street Market, the heart of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, buzzes with life.

Here you'll find a variety of tourist trinkets, T-shirts, electronics and DVDs.

As soon as you veer off the main strip, you enter a warren of backstreets where hungry locals go to fill up on bowls of asam laksa, Hainan chicken rice and mee goreng.

Eating on plastic stools next to crates full of squawking chickens, it’s a good pit stop before heading back to to the maelstrom for more haggling over bargain goods.

Petaling Street Market, Jalan Petaling, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 9235 4800

More on CNN: Malaysia's top 40 foods

Central Market

Central Market, a one-stop venue souvenir shopping. Opened in 1936, though a wet market has stood on the site since 1888, KL's Central Market has seen it all.

While once the art deco building was full of stalls selling meat and produce, since the mid-1980s it has promoted Malaysian arts and culture.

The interior is split into themed areas representing the country's diverse population, which include Lorong Melaya, where shops sell Malay handicraft; a replica of Malacca's Jonkers Street; and Little India.

The adjoining Kasturi Walk features an array of food stalls; the Annexe Gallery is a center of contemporary arts.

Central Market, Jalan Hang Kasturi, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 2031 0399

Peter Hoe Beyond

Despite not having a website, and its out of the way location, Peter Hoe Beyond is on the hit list of every visiting shopaholic.

Run by the eponymous Malaysian designer, this warehouse store, which occupies the second floor of the Lee Rubber building sells a huge range of unique pieces -- housewares, silverware, furniture, clothing -- either designed or commissioned by Peter Hoe himself.

The in-shop cafe sells delicious slices of cake.

Peter Hoe Beyond, 2/F, 145 Jalan Tun H S Lee, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 2026 9788

Suria KLCC

For those who judge malls by the height of the buildings that sit on top them, Suria is a clear winner. Suria KLCC is close to the top -- or should that be basement -- of KL's shopping greats.

This luxury mall occupies the bottom six podium floors of the Petronas Twin Towers, and their 170-meter-high Skybridge.

It has everything from luxury goods to everyday items, including branches of Parkson, Isetan, Cold Storage and Marks & Spencer, a fantastic food court, a cineplex, a huge branch of Kinokuniya bookstore and a fun-filled Science Discovery Centre and aquarium.

The adjoining KLCC Park has water fountains and a two-acre playground.

Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 2382 2828

Pavilion Kuala Lumpur

If Suria KLCC has a rival in the upscale shopping stakes, it’s Pavilion.

Since early 2012, the two malls have been connected by an air-conditioned walkway, which makes getting between the two a breeze.

Pavilion is as much known for its dining as its shopping, with a range of casual places (Fish & Co., Din Tai Fung, Madam Kwan’s) and fine dining restaurants, such as Al-Amar (Lebanese cuisine) and Spice of India.

Where it really wins is with its location -- it's at the top of Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur’s most famous shopping street, lined with a dozen different malls.

Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur; +60 (0)3 2118 8833

More on CNN: How to do Malaysia ... and get it right

Malaysia Year-End Sale

It’s not a venue per se, but Malaysia’s annual Year-End Sale (that’s YES, for short) is the best time to find bargains in Kuala Lumpur and the country at large.

Running this year from November 16 to January 5 under the slogan “My Extreme Shopping Addiction,” shopping malls and markets throughout the city offer huge discounts -- up to 50% off selected items -- as well as Christmas concerts, carnivals, clearances, fairs, exhibitions and lucky draws.

For a full list of events taking place from KL to Kelantan, Selangor to Sabah, visit the Tourism Malaysia website.

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

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Canada's meteoric fall from world tourism rankings

francescha — Wed, 20 Nov 2013 14:00:00 +0000

Canada, once the second-most visited country in the world, now trails countries like Ukraine and Saudi Arabia. What's gone wrong?

Canada was once the second most visited country in the world, only behind Italy, back when all planes crossing the Atlantic had to stop in Newfoundland.

But that ended in the 1970s, and today, as the world is going through a travel boom and more than a billion travelers crossed national boundaries around the planet last year, Canada has slipped to the 18th spot, trailing countries such as Ukraine and Saudi Arabia.

And lest you think that it couldn’t go worse from there, the number of international travelers to Canada has dropped 20% since 2000.

How bad is it? Even the declining guidebook industry began cutting Canada titles in the mid 2000s.

Necessary changes

A dive into the reasons of this decline were outlined in recent research by Deloitte Canada called “Passport to growth: How international arrivals stimulate Canadian exports.”

The main purpose of the report is to show how a turnaround of the tourism sector could have a significant impact on Canadian exports.

While Canada remains a recognized and respected “brand” in international country rankings, it has been less successful at using its brand to attract travelers.

More on CNN: How to pretend you're Canadian when you travel

Among the biggest reasons for this decline is that tourism hasn’t been a national priority for the country for a long time now, either for the government or the businesses in the country.

The tourism sector employs 600,000 Canadians and yet represents just 2% of national GDP, generating $22.7 billion in tax revenue.

Few organizations if any have done any research on the relationship between travel and trade in the Canadian market, and yet the world over, studies showing such connections have been used to boost policies to open up trade and tourism.

Flying in and out of Canada has been expensive; its air travel sector has high base fares, fees and taxes, all of which conspire to make Canada a less desirable destination.

The government’s Standing Senate Committee on Transport and Communications has recommended phasing out airport ground rents over the short term, and transferring airport ownership to airport authorities over the long term.

These changes would help lower fares paid by travelers to Canadian airports, and create incentives for new airport development projects.

More areas for change

The country may also have to reform its visa issuance, where long wait times and labor disputes are making Canada inaccessible for many travelers, the report says.

And it may be more trouble ahead before it can get better: Canada also has an aging population, which means a looming labor shortage for Canadian businesses. The industry will have to think of new ways to offer career growth and development opportunities that attract and retain talent.

More on CNN: 7 uncharted waterfalls discovered in Canada

Canada has also done little to attract tourists from beyond the familiar stable of countries it has always relied on -- the United States, Britain, France, Germany and Australia -- while the growth of visitors as we well know has been elsewhere, in emerging economies.

The high Canadian dollar has meant lower figures from its staple supplier United States.

Besides the emerging economies of Asia and Latin America, the youth traveler demographic has been rising steadily, and yet Canada has done little to appeal to them and create a more exciting and young brand to attract youth travelers.

Obviously, to regain its standing, Canada will have to create new products that appeal to new demographics and meet the needs of travelers from a range of cultural and geographic backgrounds.

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Millenials Make Hotels Rethink How They Do Loyalty Programs

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China's great duck rivalry: Beijing vs. Nanjing

hiufu — Mon, 18 Nov 2013 02:00:00 +0000

In the one corner, you've got a filling and theatrical roast duck. In the other, a light, flavorful poultry. So which one rules the roost?

Peking duck may be one of China’s most famous feasts, but the true capital of duck dishes lies 1,160 kilometers south.

Nanjing, the provincial capital of Jiangsu, is well-known in China for its tasty duck offerings. Local chefs produce soups, appetizers, main courses, pastries, snacks, dim sums and even travel souvenirs out of this livestock.

If the saucy, filling and theatrical Peking duck is typical of China’s northern fare, then Nanjing’s duck dishes are a good reflection of the palette of Chinese southerners. It's light and flavorful -- more of a nibble.

But which one is the most delicious? We’ve put the two cities’ ducks in a beak to beak face-off.

Round 1: Versatility

Roasted or salted, Nanjingers' passion for duck doesn't discriminate.Nanjing chefs beat their Beijing counterparts with aplomb on this one.

The capital is most famous for its duck roasted over apple wood, but Nanjing can turn one duck into a wide variety of dishes.

Nanjing’s top billing is salted duck. The chef marinates the duck in salt, flower pepper and brine before boiling it in water and Chinese rice wine. It's served sliced.

Nanjingers can also pick up a sesame pastry made with duck fat as breakfast, order a basket of steamed soupy dumplings full of duck meat or down a bowl of duck-bone stock filled with deep-fried firm tofu, vermicelli noodles and thickened blood cubes for dinner.

“Nanjingers also eat roast duck,” says Nanjing-born chef Chen Hengbin, 46, who works for Nanjing Jinling Hotel on Hanzhong Road. Opened in 1983 as a state-run five-star hotel, Jinling Hotel’s salted duck has won praise from Chinese leaders such as Deng Xiaoping and Jiang Zemin.

“Nanjing roast duck has crispy skin and tender meat, but it’s leaner than other roast ducks in China, probably due to the breed of duck in southern China,” adds Chen.

“When Nanjingers eat roast duck, we chop them up then pour over a light brown brine to make the meat more flavorful.”

More on CNN: Beyond bed and bath: Nanjing's best hotels

Round 2: Cultural acceptance

Peking duck, one of China's most famous culinary exports.Peking duck is one of the most popular Chinese dishes in the world.

“Every time [my] foreign friends come to China, especially the capital, this must be one of the meals to be eaten in a restaurant, preferably one that is still in a hutong, and where the ducks are slow roasted with apple wood,” says Lawrence Lo, a Shanghai-based food and wine critic who has lived in China, Europe and United States.

This is because, unlike many other foods in China, Peking duck can be eaten largely without bones, tastes like the heavily sauced Chinese food served in the West and looks like a mini wrap.

Unlike most Chinese food, Peking duck is roasted, a technique usually only found in the West.

More on CNN: How to eat Peking duck

In comparison, Nanjing’s duck dishes present more challenges for international diners. For one, the iconic salted duck contains bones, which Chinese like to suck on, and is eaten cold as an appetizer without extra condiments; while the duck blood soup contains bean-curd-like coagulated blood and duck organs.

Both tend to turn off customers who aren't from China.

“Eating poultry cold in the United States is typically something you do when you’re too lazy to reheat the leftovers,” says Kyle Gale, 28, an Arizonan who has lived in Nanjing since 2009.

Gale says Nanjing salted duck is more of an acquired taste.

“Nevertheless, these days I like Nanjing [salted] duck every bit as much as Peking roast duck.”

More on CNN: 3 1 dishes: A guide to China's regional specialites

Round 3: Taste

Don't underestimate the deliciousness of these strips of pale pink flesh and white skin.Peking duck is a dream for meat lovers.

The skin is crispy and sometimes caramelized, the meat is tender, boneless and the hoisin sauce is sweet.

“We don’t cut open the ducks when we cook,” says Yau Shuiwing, 36, chef from a popular Beijing restaurant Duck de Chine.

“Instead, we cut a small hole to extract the organs, then pump in boiling water when we hang the ducks to roast. This way, we can achieve ultra delicious duck skin, which is the best part of a Peking duck, while keeping the meat juicy and soft.”

Nanjing’s symbolic duck dish of salted duck is even more tender than Peking duck and more meaty in flavor, but compared to the aromatic and golden brown roast duck, its looks don’t reflect its taste. To tourists who have never tried it, it might appear bland and under prepared.

“The crispy and roasted skin of Peking duck is visually more appealing than the plain white skin of the Nanjing kind,” says Lawrence Lo.

But Lo considers Nanjing salted duck a great snack to go with a bottle of cold beer.

More on CNN: China's most beautiful bookshop... in a car park

Round 4: Portability

Hot or cold? The choice is yours. Peking Duck is best eaten when it’s out-of-the-oven hot and aromatic. This makes it a great sit-down restaurant dish.

Although diners can easily find them in high-end restaurants and hotels, such as Jinling Hotel and InterContinental Nanjing, most of Nanjing’s duck dishes are great for quick bites. They’re convenient, hassle-free and extremely portable.

Diners on-the-go can shovel a duck-fat-sesame pastry or a few chunks of salted duck into any food container and they taste as good after an hour or two.

Smart Nanjingers have taken advantage of this and made salted duck a popular travel souvenir. Many supermarkets, retail stores and restaurants stock salted duck in portable and sealed vacuum packs.

They can be eaten directly from the pack or after a quick zap in the microwave.

More on CNN: Surprising Nanjing: Mini-guide to China's ancient capital

Round 5: Entertainment value

To many, Peking duck’s draw lies in its dramatic dining experience, from watching a razzle-dazzle duck-cutting performance to making a duck wrap with their own hands.

This makes eating a plate of Peking duck as entertaining as it is delicious.

“Peking duck restaurants purposely allow chefs to cut the duck in the restaurant, where customers can see how the crispy duck is sliced,” says Lawrence Lo.

With Peking duck, it's all about theatrics. “Peking Duck is served with other trimmings, such as thin pancakes and well-known Hoisin sauce, which creates ‘theater’ in the dish,” adds Lo.

“In comparison, Nanjing duck dishes have no such theatrics.”

Final verdict: To international visitors, Peking duck still rules. And as the capital, Beijing dominates China’s international tourism scene.

But for anyone who wishes to appreciate the diversity of Chinese cuisine and explore what daily meals are like for ordinary Chinese, Nanjing’s salted duck, sesame pastries, duck blood soup and duck-meat dumplings are great starters.

More on CNN: 8 dishes to try in Nanjing

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However, CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

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Macau's kung fu coffee master

hiufu — Fri, 15 Nov 2013 02:45:52 +0000

Amid abandoned shipyards an unusual cafe owner is blending Macau's most intriguing coffee

Life-threatening accident, kung fu training, chance meeting with a mysterious foreign couple, encounter with a golden movie star and a pot of instant coffee -- Leong Kam Hon’s story reads like a crazy Chinese adventure movie.

“Two bones, muscles, blood vessels -- all gone," says Leong. "But I told my doctor, giving up my arm means giving up my life.”

Leong, 55, is the Macanese owner of Hon Kee, a small café hidden in an abandoned shipyard in Macau.

He brings up his arm quickly in conversation, because had he lost it, he would never have gone on to brew the most famous coffee in Macau.

The coffee, which appears underwhelming when it comes to you, is as surprisingly flavorful as Leong's life.

More on CNN: 10 things to know before visiting Macau

From kung fu to coffee

First-time visitors may have difficulty finding the cafe amid abandoned shipyards.In 1986, Leong was working at a local shipyard when an accident with a rusty saw nearly severed his left arm just above the elbow.

Fearing an infection could put his life at risk, a surgeon advised Leong to have the arm removed completely.

Leong believed a ship-builder losing an arm would be like a musician losing his hearing. He refused the advice.

"I told the surgeon I'd rather not live than live without my arm," he says.

The arm was reattached and Leong was observed for signs of infection or restricted blood flow. His risk paid off -- the operation was a success.

Following the operation, Leong was transferred to a hospital in mainland China for an experimental nerve transplant.

“At the time of my operation, they were still developing the technology on lab rats in Guangzhou,” says Leong.

“The surgery went well but my arm -- which hadn’t been used for months -- had shrunk as thin as a bamboo stick.”

During the long recovery from the accident and subsequent medical procedures, Leong thought about alternatives to ship building (his arm remained weak long after the surgery), eventually hitting on the idea of opening a cafe that would serve the workers from various shipyards in the port.

"It wasn't an easy process," says Leong, recounting not just the difficult career transition, but the red tape that opening a business requires.

The local government rejected his initial application for a business license in 1990.

"They said it's an industrial area," recalls Leong. "But I had to make a living, so I wrote a letter to the Portuguese mayor of Macau. He granted my request regardless of the (local) official's initial rejection."

Leong got to work, first building his café from scratch, by himself.

In an effort to rebuild the strength in his arm, he also built a wooden dummy and began practicing kung fu on it.

“I remember the first night I finished practicing kung fu, I slept through the whole night without waking up in the middle of the night," he says. "The pain and numbness in my arm prevented me from sleeping well -- that was the first night in a very long time that I managed to sleep through the night.”

Ever since, Leong has practiced kung fu on the wooden dummy each morning.

“I’m no kung fu master, but it certainly helped me regain my strength and even have strength for blending my coffee,” he says.

More on CNN: 10 must-try Macau foods

“Chow Yun-Fat” coffee

Leong says his self-styled kung fu training helped hone his coffee blending skills.

This is no longer "instant" coffee.Leong's product isn't some sophisticated fresh roasted coffee. It actually comes from -- look away, coffee snobs! -- instant coffee powder.

It's the way Leong blends it, however, that makes it special.

First he stirs a spoonful of thick coffee mixture a few hundreds rounds at high speed, like a motor, until it thickens. The process takes a few minutes.

When water is added to the coffee, a thick layer of foam and cream rises to the top, creating an unusually creamy texture and aromatic smell.

“A foreign couple [Leong doesn't know from which country] taught me this way of coffee-making," he says. "They used to come every year during the Grand Prix, sit here and drink their coffee for the whole day."

“The last time they were here, they came to me and tried to teach me how to make a coffee.”

Unable to speak to each other -- the couple spoke English, Leong speaks only Cantonese -- they communicated through sign language.

That was in the early 2000s. Leong never heard from them again.

“It was so troublesome to make coffee (their) way," he says. "I used to just boil a whole pot of coffee. I didn’t give them much thought and continued to boil my coffee my own way until the day Chow Yun-Fat came to visit the cafe."

A local legend, the Hong Kong-born Chow is known internationally for his starring roles in movies such as John Woo’s “Hard Boiled” and Ang Lee’s “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon.”

Leong was star struck.

“I thought, 'what kind of coffee is good enough for a star like Chow?” he says.

The rest of the story isn't tough to figure out -- Leong blended the coffee the way he'd learned from the foreign couple.

Chow loved it, Leong says, claiming it tasted better than the coffee he had at his hotel.

Word spread.

Travelers, local and overseas media flocked to Hon Kee café for the “Chow Yun-Fat” coffee.

That was 2004.

The burst of fame came just in time. A sharp decline in the area shipping business had been hurting his business. As his customer base began losing their jobs, Leong was forced to take on outside work.

He feared he wouldn't be able to afford to stay in business, but the unexpected noteriety kept the café alive.

More on CNN: Top-notch hotel under $100: Macau's best boutique stay

Beyond coffee

The pier at Coloane in southern Macau. A few area stores still sell dried seafood. The media attention and fame were short-lived.

With its inconvenient location, Hon Kee is still off the radar for most travelers, and not widely known among locals.

Hon Kee café is in Lai Chi Wun Village in Coloane, on the southern side of Macau.

It’s in the area of one of the last fishing villages left in fast-developing Macau. This fact alone makes it an interesting excursion from the vibrant gaming and tourist scene that dominates most of Macau.

Getting there: If your cab driver doesn't know the way to Lai Chi Wun Village, you can start at Coloane city center and walk toward the shore. Turn right when you see Ponte Cais De Coloane (the pier in the picture above) and walk until you reach the police station. Then crest a small slope and walk by the shipyards. The entire walk takes about 10 minutes.

Hon Kee Cafe, Lai Chi Wun Road, Coloane City Center, Macau; +853 2888 2310; open daily except Monday, 7 a.m.-6 p.m.

More on CNN: House of Dancing Water: Secrets behind the world's biggest water show

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However, CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

George Town, Penang: Asia’s greatest street food city?

karlac1 — Thu, 14 Nov 2013 09:50:57 +0000

No time and only one stomach? Here's how to conquer this food-loving destination with your belt holes intact

It’s 8:30 a.m.

I’m facing down an incredible breakfast buffet at one of the hottest luxury hotels in George Town, Penang -- the Eastern & Oriental.

Cheese, pastries, curries, French toast, beef sausage, dim sum, fresh fruit.

The problem is, I don’t want any of it.

I’m preoccupied with what’s waiting for me outside -- some of the finest street food in Asia.

Eater's paradise

Shophouses built from the early 20th century have been carefully preserved and most are still run by relatives of the founders.Penang food is a mix of traditional Malay, Chinese and Indian dishes, as well as fusion cuisines such as Baba Nyonya, or Peranakan, which incorporates regional ingredients and Chinese and Malay cooking methods.

All of it can be found in hawker centers and shop houses throughout George Town.

Combine this with the city's collection of historic buildings in various styles, from old English colonial mansions to classical Chinese shophouses and Islamic mosques, and you have a city made for walking and eating.

My first meal in the city is a plate of lamb rendang, a traditional Malaysian curry made with coconut milk and spices, slowly simmered to allow the meat to absorb the flavors.

From that moment, I'm like a kid seeking out a sugar rush.

Stomach space becomes precious. I obsess over where and when I'll have my next meal.

My mission: to enjoy as many of the island's famed dishes as possible in three days.

More on CNN: 10 best islands for a Malaysia holiday

What makes Penang special?

Nasi kandar restaurants are extremely popular curry shops. Most are open 24 hours and run by Indian Muslims. Penang-born Malaysian chef and restaurateur Norman Musa has written several books on Malaysian cuisine and hosted his own cooking show.

He's considered an ambassador of his country's food, which he promotes through overseas food festivals and his UK-based restaurants in York and Manchester, called Ning.

"I agree 101% that Penang is the food capital of Malaysia," he tells me.

"I come back to Malaysia every three months. Every time, I know I’m going to put on weight. In two weeks, I’ll put on five kilos."

Musa says it's not just the food that makes Penang incredible, but the atmosphere.

"Watch the food being cooked on the streets, the buzz, the smell, the sounds," he raves. "That’s what you get in Penang. You can’t get that anywhere else in Malaysia. You don’t get the authenticity."

Penang-based Wall Street Journal street food columnist Robyn Eckhardt, who’s working on her first cookbook, explains what makes Penang's food scene stand out from its Malaysian counterparts.

Char koay teow, a Penang must-try according to well-fed experts.

“It comes down to the fact that many older, second- or third-generation vendors are still dishing it up in Penang," she says.

"The street food culture is still very strong in Penang, whereas it's starting to disappear in Kuala Lumpur because of the way the city is changing physically.

“This is a place where old trades still thrive -- sign-making, rattan weaving, tin smithing, paper-effigy making, incense making.

"There are still craftsmen and artisans here who do work not to titillate tourists, but for the locals who create the demand for their work. Things are still done by hand, stocks are still made with chicken and seafood.

"There's an asam laksa vendor who is boning anchovies by hand at his stall to place on top of his noodles!”

This "small-batch" culture carries over into street food, she says, noting that ingredients still produced on Penang, such as shrimp paste and soy sauce, "are made the old-fashioned way in barrels that ferment in the sun."

More on CNN: Cameron Highlands: Malaysia's enduring 'Little England'

Advice for first timers

With all its choices, George Town can be overwhelming for a newcomer with limited time and only one stomach.

Eckhardt has a number of tips.

First, she says, if you're new to Penang/Malaysian food, try not to get caught up in what's "best." Don't become obsessed with hitting the most popular stalls or "thinking that you need to go where Anthony Bourdain did."

She also points out that "street food here is safe -- I've never heard of anyone getting sick -- and so is ice."

On coffee shops: "Go into a coffee shop knowing how to order and pay -- drinks from the shop owner, dishes from the individual vendors, everyone is paid separately. This will give you confidence."

A vendor cooks up a serving of Hokkien char, made with fried egg noodles and seafood. Hawker stalls are found in every corner of George Town. A grazing mentality is helpful.

"Many servings here are relatively small, which means you can try a lot of different dishes," Eckhardt says. "And they're inexpensive -- so don't feel obligated to finish everything."

Also, be on the lookout for holes-in-the-wall.

"I am still finding places I didn't notice before," she says. "And be aware of meal times. That thosai [crispy Indian-style crepe] shop may have just one person in it -- that doesn't mean the food isn't good, it may be that you're passing by at 10:30 a.m., which is well past rush hour for thosai."

Eckhardt even touches on the very issue I'd been flummoxed by. The dreaded hotel buffet.

"Get out of bed in the morning and skip your hotel breakfast," she says. "Start walking."

Eckhardt says there's plenty of great food to be had in the morning, and it's worth keeping in mind that some dishes are more readily available at certain times of day than others.

"Asam laksa, for instance, comes out around 2 p.m. and stays around till 5 p.m. or so; it's seen as more of a snack than a lunch or breakfast."

Eckhardt's don't miss dishes: Char koay teow, asam laksa, nasi kandar, thosai and/or roti (savory, it's not served sweet as in Thailand), lor bak and koay teow th'ng.

A few of Musa's Malaysian favorites: Nasi lemak, beef rending, char koay teow, roti canai.

You can find most of the above dishes on this list of Malaysia's 40 top foods.

More on CNN: Malaysia travel: 10 things to know before you go

Food tours and cooking classes

Sambal udang is a Peranakan dish created by descendants of 15th- and 16th-century Chinese immigrants.

A food tour is among the easier ways to get acquainted with Penang eats.

For something personalized, Eckhardt offers private tours, which need to be booked at least five weeks in advance.

Her most popular excursion is on foot and hits George Town's culinary highlights, taking two to three hours. Visit her website for more info.

Another option is Penang Culinary Tour, which offers customized itineraries. Options include visits to a local wet market, hawker food tastings, Nyonya private dining and stops at heritage coffee shops, a traditional soy sauce factory and belacan (shrimp paste) factory.

To learn how to cook some of Penang's most popular dishes, Nazlina Spice Station offers regular classes in a small shop house in central George Town.

Sessions include a visit to nearby markets and last three to five hours.

Owner Nazlina (highly recommended by Musa) also does private dinners for two or more, by reservation only. Her website has information on days/times/menus.

More on CNN: Asia's best street food cities

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Hong Kong's best 'no reservations' restaurants

karlac1 — Wed, 13 Nov 2013 22:00:00 +0000

Don’t bother calling up these joints, where lines -- and great food -- are guaranteed

The Brits gave Hong Kong some good stuff -- efficient public transportation, afternoon tea, respect for the queue.

That last one might explain why the no-reservation-restaurant trend has recently made a successful leap into Hong Kong.

Best of all, many no-res venues are rewarding customers for all that waiting around with a no-service-charge policy.

Here are six places worth waiting for.

22 Ships

No reservations, no service charge at 22 Ships. What happens when one of the most in-demand UK chefs teams up with a Hong Kong-based hotelier with the Midas touch?

22 Ships.

The product of chef Jason Atherton (London’s Pollen Street Social) and Yenn Wong (JIA Boutique Hotel Group), 22 Ships isn't an average tapas joint.

Judging by the long lines nightly in front of 22 Ships, Atherton’s signature move -- turning seemingly simple recipes into artful cuisine -- is creating a huge buzz in HK.

Small plates don't hinder the punch of the flavors.

Jamon iberico, morcilla and duck’s egg is perfect for a late brunch after a heavy night out. While the jamon iberico and squid paella rice may be a bit soggy, the dish is unmistakably Spanish.

Expect at least two more openings from the dynamic duo in the near future, one just opposite 22 Ships.

22 Ships, 22 Ship St., Wanchai; +85 (0)2 2555 07222; Monday-Saturday, noon-3 p.m., 6-11 p.m.; Sunday, noon–2:30 p.m., 6-10 p.m.

Brickhouse

Good tacos in Hong Kong? It's true.

In a back alley with no signage in Hong Kong's Lan Kwai Fong area, Brickhouse isn't easy to find.

It's the kind of place where hipsters and well-heeled financiers mingle over tacos -- the rib-eye, Manchego cheese, tomato salsa and cilantro taco is a star.

This taqueria is, however, more than just a tacos and tequila joint.

With colorful wall murals, loud music and friendly service, the restaurant offers a vibe reminiscent of a Mexican street food scene.

Aside from the tacos, the Peruvian ceviche and watermelon salad are as refreshing as they are flavorful.

Brickhouse, G/F, 20 D’Aguilar St., Central; Monday-Wednesday, 6 p.m.-2 a.m., Thursday-Saturday, 6 p.m.-4 a.m.

More on CNN: Best new restaurants in Hong Kong

Chachawan

Chachawan's salt-crusted whole sea bass with lemongrass, pandanus and lime leaf. Here's another venue from the unstoppable Yenn Wong of the JIA Boutique Hotel Group.

This time, she's teamed up with chef Adam Cliff, a protégé of Nahm’s David Thompson.

The menu is predominantly based on Thailand’s Isan region -- that means simple dishes done just right.

Standout items include som tum moo grop (green papaya salad with crispy pork and a sweet and sour tamarind dressing) and salt-crusted whole sea-bass with lemongrass, pandanus and lime leaf. The latter is cooked over fire and served with a green chili dipping sauce that delivers full-blown flavors and, of course, that fiery kick associated with northeast Thailand.

There are great cocktails on the menu and the inevitable end to an Isan meal -- mango and sticky rice.

Chachawan, 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; +85 (0)2 2549 0020; Tuesday-Sunday, noon-3 p.m.; 6:30 p.m.-midnight

More on CNN: 10 new Hong Kong hotels for every type of traveler

Tim Ho Wan

THW's beloved baked bun with barbecue pork. For no-frill, quality dim sum, Tim Ho Wan is wildly popular with locals.

At the helm is chef Mak Kwai Pui, who led Lung King Heen at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong to its three-Michelin stars, only to leave the place and open his own hole-in-the-wall dim sum joint in Mongkok.

Eaters from around the world can't get enough of THW’s Big Four Heavenly King Dim Sum -- especially the now much-copied Baked Bun with BBQ Pork.

Tim Ho Wan opened its first branch in 2009. It’s now a mini-empire, with four venues in Hong Kong and two in Singapore.

None are as good as the original in Mongkok (which has closed due to skyrocketing rents), but no one seems to care.

Nowadays, the best bet is the branch at Sham Shui Po, which employs one of the best chefs from the original restaurant.

Tim Ho Wan, G/F, 9-11 Fuk Wing St., Sham Shui Po; +85 (0)2 2788 1226; daily, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.

Also on CNN: The best Hong Kong dim sum

Mak’s Noodles

At Mak's, the secret is in the broth. This third-generation family business has been making what's arguably the world's best wonton noodle soup since the 1960s.

The powdered dried flounder, dried shrimp roe and pork bones create a clear stock with well-balanced flavors.

The combination of broth with perfectly formed shrimp dumplings and chewy noodles makes it a must-try for Hong Kong visitors.

The only downside is its hugely controversial small serving size.

Mak's owner maintains small servings keep the noodles from getting soggy. But charging the same price (HK$30) as the city's other wonton joints doesn't please eaters.

Regardless, given that locals and foreigners still flock to the place and its other four branches around Hong Kong, Mak’s Noodles does more right than wrong.

Mak’s Noodles, 77 Wellington St., Central; +852 2854 3810; daily 11 a.m.-8 p.m.

More on CNN: Best of Hong Kong

Yardbird

Yardbird demonstrates the versatility of chicken.A menu consisting heavily of grilled chicken on a stick may not sound tempting, especially when you have to walk up the winding stairs of Sheung Wan to get to it.

But Yardbird is an exception, with food handmade by chef Matt Abergel.

The ex-NYC Masa and former executive chef at HK’s Zuma opened this Japanese gastro-bar in 2011. It's since been ranked 46th on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Abergel transforms humble chicken thighs, necks and gizzards into yakitori paradise.

The house-made junmai and junmai nigori sake are great accompaniments, as is the industrial chic décor.

If you can't be bothered to wait in the line, a few steps away you'll find Ronin, Abergel’s seafood-centric modern izakaya. It opened earlier this year and takes bookings.

Yardbird, 33-35 Bridges St., Sheung Wang; +85 (0)2 2457 9273; Monday-Saturday, 6 p.m.-midnight

More on CNN: The World's 50 Best Restaurants

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How to be a Reykjaviker: 8 ways to be cool in Iceland

sbusch — Wed, 13 Nov 2013 06:00:00 +0000

Cultivate a love for wool sweaters, beer and fermented shark meat if you want to feel at home in Iceland's capital

A cool geography teacher in multicolored thermal underwear, with a beer in one hand and a ram's testicle in the other.

Confused?

That's the average inhabitant of the Icelandic capital personified.

Well, sort of.

Never fear if you fall short of that image -- these tips for Reykjavik living will help you fit in with the city's small but friendly population.

1. Cultivate a hip, outdoorsy look

Because that’s how almost everyone dresses in Reykjavik, from grandmas to teenage rockers.

In a country where summer temperatures rarely exceed 15C (59F), it makes sense to stock up on thermal underwear, wool gloves and waterproof jackets.

But these are only the blank canvas for the cool Reykjaviker’s fashion statement.

To avoid resembling a boy scout on a polar expedition, your outerwear should be as bright as possible and worn over a T-shirt bearing the logo of the latest hot emo or death metal band.

Warm and bright: the Reykjavik dress code.Grandmas are excluded from the latter requirement, but cool specs are virtually obligatory for everyone, as is a beard (if you can grow one).

For the more casual, lounging-around-a-log-fire look, snag a lopapeysa, a traditional Icelandic sweater.

“They're as Icelandic as it gets,” says Reykjavik blogger Auður Ösp.

“Everybody needs a lopapeysa. Or many of them -- one to fit each mood!”

The Handknitting Association of Iceland can point you toward purveyors of quality lopapeysas.

More on CNN: CNNGo in Reykjavik: Thermal pools and comfy sweaters

2. Bone up on geography

That way you’ll appreciate the extraordinary, “Lord of the Rings”-like landscapes a short drive away from the Icelandic capital.

“Within 20 minutes, you’re seeing volcanoes, lava fields, waterfalls,” says Hawk Parelius, a tour guide for Nature Explorer.

J.R.R. Tolkien is said to have been inspired by a visit to Iceland when imagining Middle Earth.

It's a landscape that makes terms like “tectonic plates” come alive.

“We’re actually growing by two centimeters a year, as the Eurasian and North American plates separate," Parelius says.

“We’re taking over the world slowly but surely.”

More on CNN: Inside the cold heart of an Icelandic volcano

3. Sandblast your sense of humor

Icelanders’ jokes are so dry they can be hard to digest.

“Neil Armstrong practiced for the moon landing on the Langjökull glacier. Michael Jackson’s been here, too.”

“Have some rotten shark -- it’s a delicacy.”

All delivered with a face as straight as a frozen larval plain.

It’s often hard to tell what’s meant to be funny and what’s not, but considering Icelanders respond to jokes about as expressionlessly as they tell them, it doesn’t really matter.

4. Don’t turn your nose up at a ram’s testicle

Is there any member of the animal kingdom -- or any part of the animal -- that isn’t on the menu in Iceland?

The country’s traditional dishes reflect the constant threat of starvation faced by early Icelanders in a land where neither fauna nor flora are abundant.

Rams’ testicles, sheep’s head, puffin, whale and fermented (read “rotten”) shark are all consumed, if not with relish, then at least consumed.

"Say cheese, very old cheese." Siggi Gardarsson snaps people trying fermented shark for the first time.“Most tourists are interested in the fermented shark,” says Siggi Gardarsson, of Kolaportið market in central Reykjavik.

He photographs his customers’ expressions on trying the “delicacy” and posts them on his Facebook page.

“It tastes a bit like cheese, very old cheese,” says Gardarsson.

More on CNN: Elf School spills secrets of Iceland's 'Hidden People'

5. Be comfortable with those old, familiar faces

Two-thirds of Icelanders live in Reykjavik -- but that's still only 200,000 people.

You’re going to be passing the same people in the street again and again.

“Reykjavik is like a village trying to be a city,” says Unnsteinn Stefansson, lead singer with the band Retro Stefson.

“I like that everyone knows each other -- but it’s also my least favorite thing.”

6. Brush up on your geothermal tub talk

In a country bubbling over with volcanic activity, it’s not surprising to find a smattering of thermal pools even in urban Reykjavik.

The city's inhabitants often take a dip first thing or linger later in the day for a spot of pottaspjall -- “tub talk.”

“People sit and chat about the weather or politics,” says Olympic swimmer Ragga Ragnarsdóttir.

“It’s normal for strangers to join in.”

More on CNN: 11 of Reykjavik's coolest bars

7. Learn to say, “That’s so 2007.”

Insert this phrase where appropriate to indicate that something is extravagant or excessive.

"Down with the banks!" They're so 2007.It entered the Icelandic lexicon after the financial crash of 2008, when all three of the country’s large, privately owned banks collapsed.

It refers to the period before the current mood of prudence and austerity took hold.

Do say, “Ólafur’s new silver-plated beard trimmers are so 2007.”

Don’t say, “These thermals are great! I’ll take a pair in every color!”

8. Relish your beer

More than most, Icelanders appreciate a nice pint -- beer was illegal in the country until 1989.

Prohibition began in 1915, but was progressively lifted for other alcoholic drinks except for “strong beer” (above 2.25%), which temperance campaigners viewed as cheap devil’s brew.

Some Icelanders celebrate the lifting of the ban, on March 1, as Beer Day.

In Reykjavik and elsewhere, pubs stay open on the day until 4 a.m. for rúnturs (bar crawls).

Gull and Viking are the most common Icelandic lagers.

Gull means “gold” in Icelandic, “although I can understand that it’s confusing for tourists,” says Hawk Parelius.

“They’re probably thinking, what’s a bird got to do with beer?”

11 of Reykjavik’s coolest bars

sbusch — Wed, 13 Nov 2013 06:00:00 +0000

Sure they're in Iceland, but these watering holes are cool for more reasons than that

For a country that banned full-strength beer until 1989, Iceland sure knows how to party.

“Walking down the main drag of Reykjavik at 3 a.m. on a Friday or Saturday night -- even in the middle of winter -- the sidewalk's still packed,” says Anna Andersen, editor of the local English newspaper Reykjavik Grapevine.

Beyond the traditional beer halls with pounding music, the 11 nightspots below let you sip craft cocktails in style or dance until dawn.

At the end of the list, you'll find some Reykjavik bar-hopping tips to help you fit in.

Kex Hostel -- the bar in a biscuit factory

Kex -- takes the biscuit.One of the happier stories borne out of Iceland’s 2008 economic crisis, Kex is housed in an abandoned biscuit factory that escaped demolition when plans to build skyscrapers in its place ran out of cash.

The owners transformed the building into a chic hostel, bar and eatery, naming it after the Icelandic word for biscuit.

Travelers and Reykjavikers come here to drink beer and catch impromptu gigs.

Johannes Agustsson, founder of local indie record label 12 Tónar, says keep your eye out for up-and-coming female artist Mr Silla and three-piece band Samaris playing at Kex.

Kex Hostel, Skúlagata 28, +354 561 6060

More on CNN: How to be a Reykjaviker: 8 ways to fit in

Kaffibarinn -- the institution

The origin of Kaffibarinn's Tube logo has become the stuff of legend.Established for so long that the current staff can’t remember the full story behind its London Underground-styled logo, Kaffibarinn remains one of Reykjavik’s most popular nightspots.

“We put a lot of energy into hiring good DJs and our staff are very close knit, which helps our customers feel engaged,” says a manager, Katherina Hauptmann.

By day it’s a cool coffee shop, but Kaffibarinn gets fiendishly busy at night, when it turns into a bar.

Worth trying are Topas or Ópal (local liquorice liqueurs) and Reyka, Icelandic vodka.

Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1, +354 551 1588

Gallery Bar -- part art gallery, part gentleman's club

Bartenders here know how to mix drinks, not just pour beer.An example of a hotel bar you’d actually want to visit, the Hotel Holt’s Gallery Bar is one of the smartest spots in town to quaff a quality beverage in peace.

“The bartenders here really know how to make drinks -- not a given elsewhere in Reykjavík, where most people just drink beer,” Andersen says.

There are red leather club chairs to sink into and tempting cocktails of the day.

“You might have the place to yourself, but you’ll be in good company with paintings by some of Iceland’s most renowned artists on the walls.”

Gallery Bar, Bergstadastraeti 37; +354 552 5700

More on CNN: CNNGo in Reykjavik: Thermal pools and comfy sweaters

Snaps -- comes with 'best goddamn restaurant'

Snaps: It gets steamy in the greenhouseWinner of the Reykjavik Grapevine’s “best goddamn restaurant” award for the past two years, Snaps is a top spot for a social drink and a good-value meal.

With its glass walls and hanging plants, the venue feels like a giant, cozy greenhouse -- people drop by for a quick beer and then find they have no reason to leave.

There’s a piano in the corner if you feel like banging out a tune.

Snaps, Þórsgata 1, +354 511 6677

Le Chateau des Dix Gouttes -- retro French with Icelandic wine

Retro cafe by day, French lounge bar by night -- and sells rhubarb wine. Known as Tiu Dropar (Ten Drops) by day, this intimate, grandma-chic basement cafe gets a mini-makeover from owner David Bensow every evening before he reopens the venue as a French-themed lounge bar.

One of a few dedicated wine bars emerging in Reykjavik, Le Chateau sells Iceland’s only wine brand, Kvöldsól, made from crowberries, rhubarb, blueberries and Icelandic herbs.

Le Chateau also serves cheese, waffles and charcuterie to the strains of Edith Piaf.

Le Chateau des Dix Gouttes, Laugarvegur 27; +354 551 9380

More on CNN: Inside the cold heart of an Icelandic volcano

Micro Bar -- for beer nerds

"A Tactical Nuclear Penguin, please." Iceland’s newest microbrewery bar, this funky city bolthole supports small brewers from all over Iceland and beyond.

With mountainous wall murals by the native cartoonist Hugleikur Dagsson, it’s a sweet space to pull up a stool and try anything from a local Kaldi draft to a Tactical Nuclear Penguin from Scotland.

Micro Bar is located in, but not affiliated to, the Center Hotel if you can’t be bothered walking home.

Micro Bar, Austurstræti 6; +354 847 9084

Slippbarinn -- Reykjavik’s first cocktail bar

From the hand of master mixologist Ásgeir Má.It opened only a year ago, but this vintage-styled watering hole tucked into the foyer of the Scandi-chic Reykjavik Hotel Marina was the city’s first proper cocktail bar.

“Cocktail culture in Iceland is very young but catching up quickly,” explains Slippbarinn’s master mixologist, Ásgeir Má.

On any given night you’ll find as many Reykjavik residents as hotel guests sampling Má’s ever-changing creations, all mixed with house-made syrups and freshly squeezed juices.

Located right on the harbor, it’s possible to see the Northern Lights from your bar stool in the right conditions.

Slippbarinn, Mýragata 2; +354 560 8080

Loftið -- the place with a dress code

One of the few places where a Gore-Tex jacket won't cut it.One of Reykjavik’s newer bars making a concerted move beyond beer, Loftið draws a mix of expats and mature, moneyed locals with its quality cocktails.

Being one of the only establishments in town to enforce a strict dress code helps Loftið maintain an added element of class -- but while you won’t find anyone dancing on tables here, the mood is far from stuffy.

Loftið, Austurstræti 9, +354 551 9400

More on CNN: Elf School spills secrets of Iceland's 'Hidden People'

Harlem -- the (street) arty place

Some visitors are pleasantly surprised by Reykjavik’s blossoming street art scene -- it can certainly lift the mood amid the city’s rather somber colors.

Sixteen street artists were commissioned to put their mark on the interior of Harlem, a gritty downtown bar that attracts an appropriately arty crowd along with some of the city’s best DJs.

“Come early, before the crowds arrive, to check out the amazing artwork and stay on to make shapes on the dance floor,” Agustsson suggests.

Harlem, Tryggvagötu 22

Kaldi -- has Icelandic beer on tap

Icelandic beer -- made to a Czech recipe.Designed as a healthier alternative to the additive-heavy international beers widely consumed in Iceland since the end of prohibition, the country’s own Kaldi beer (brewed to a special Czech recipe) went down well with Icelanders on its 2005 launch and has sold well since.

Fortunately, you don’t have to head to its northern Icelandic brewery to drink it fresh -- this industrial-styled Reykjavik brew bar offers four varieties on tap, including the brand’s unfiltered crowd favorite.

Kaldi, Laugarvegur 20b

Ölstofa Kormáks og Skjaldar -- the low-key jewel

Ölstofan: too cool to show off.Known simply as Ölstofan, this nondescript city bar is frequented by artists, writers, musos and cool kids over 30 who like to keep things simple.

With no dance floor and a soundtrack you can hear yourself chat over, Reykjavik residents come here to cozy up in wooden booths and unwind with a cold pint of award-winning house brand Brió (it beat more than 4,000 other beers to top the World Beer Cup competition in 2012).

Ölstofan, Vegamótastig 4; +354 552 4687

Reykjavik bar rules -- there aren't many

Icelandic bars rarely impose a cover charge, unless it’s a special event.

Most Reykjavik bars don’t impose a dress code -- you can stumble into just about any bar wearing your Gore-Tex jacket and hiking boots, if you want to.

Most bars close by 1 a.m. from Sunday-Thursday and stay open until as late as 4.30 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights.

The legal drinking age in Iceland is 20, but many bars impose their own age limit of 21 or 22.

Most city bars offer happy hour deals – download the Reykjavik Grapevine’s Appy Hour app to keep track.

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Reykjavik Elf School spills secrets of the 'Hidden People'

sbusch — Wed, 13 Nov 2013 06:00:00 +0000

Never cross an elf and other lessons from Iceland's premier institution for identifying imaginary creatures

Iceland's otherworldly landscapes look like the kind of place Hidden People would call home.

Iceland. Home to around 320,000 Icelanders and an undetermined number of elves, dwarfs, fairies and trolls.

With its eerie landscape of frozen lava fields, smoking geysers and barely dormant volcanoes, Iceland certainly seems the sort of place the latter group would inhabit.

This alternative population is known locally as Huldufólk, which translates as Hidden Folk or Hidden People. Ask Icelanders if they believe in them and the answers are as elusive as their name suggests.

To find out more about these hidden peeps, I enrol in a crash course on all things elvish at Reykjavik's Elf School.

The psychics next door

The understated entrance to the Elf School.

The school is based on Sidmuli Street in the east of the capital. Naturally, it shares its premises with a psychic center.

A tatty sign on a bright blue door guarded by a rosy-cheeked gnome statue provides an odd welcome.

The solitary classroom looks like the study of an eccentric tutor.

There are hundreds of books, lamps with frilly shades, fiber-optic flowers and painted, plaster elves.

“Are the elves a good likeness?” I ask Magnus Skarphedinsson, the school headmaster.

“What? These plastic things? Not at all!” he replies demonstratively, as if the little folk in question might be listening.

More on CNN: 11 of Reykjavik's coolest bars

Pure Icelandic

Elves first appeared in a literary sense in Iceland's medieval sagas -- epic, imaginative tales firmly rooted in the country's culture.

In a long-isolated nation such as Iceland, the language has remained pure enough that the population can read these thousand-year-old legends as if they were today’s newspapers or websites.

Compared to, say, “Beowulf" in Old English, these elf stories must seem pretty fresh and modern.

Skarphedinsson has spent 30 years talking to thousands of people who claim to have met the Hidden People.

Magnus Skarphedinsson: 30 years of elf research and how many sightings?Among those, he describes a man called Halldor Gudnason who once saw a rock at his farm in Slettuhreppur, in western Iceland, turn into “a church with blazing lights” with an “unusually handsome priest” dressed in a gold robe standing at the door.

Then there's Elly Erlingsdottir, who was convinced elves had borrowed her scissors. They weren't juvenile delinquents, though -- they returned them a week later.

Sounds like the nights are long in rural Iceland, I think to myself.

More on CNN: How to be a Reykjaviker: 8 ways to fit in

True-ish believers

But urban Iceland, too, dishes up its fair share of (partial) believers.

Before enrolling in Elf School, I bump into Helga Thor. (Such legendary names are common in Iceland.) She's a student who tells me her aunt believes an elf lives in her neighbor's garden.

“She's never seen him but she has a feeling he's there.”

So does she think the Hidden People are real?

“I can't rule it out. They're like ghosts -- you don't have to see them to believe in them.”

A fence-sitter.

More than half of Icelanders believe the Hidden People might be skipping around the countryside somewhere. There are hundreds in this picture alone.The most recent folkloric study, from 2006, found that 56% of Icelanders at least believed the Huldufólk might exist.

"Very few will say immediately that they 'believe' in [them] but they won't deny it either," the survey’s author, Professor Terry Gunnell, later said.

The country’s long-serving current president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson, thinks Icelanders long ago invented the Hidden People to keep them company.

Iceland, after all, is among the least densely populated nations on the planet, with around three people per square kilometer.

More on CNN: CNNGo in Reykjavik: Thermal pools and comfy sweaters

Fleeting folk

And Skarphedinsson? He has no doubts about these Hidden Folk.

He tells me he can differentiate 13 types of elf, four kinds of gnome, two species of troll and three varieties of fairy -- handing me a text book to aid identification.

Elves are depicted with long, spindly legs and big ears; dwarfs have pointed hats and turned-up shoes; gnomes are rotund and smiley.

So far, so Christmas card.

A dwarf classroom assistant at the Elf School?While popularly this motley crew are lumped together as "the hidden people," Skarphedinsson says (rather confusingly) the latter are actually a separate race -- the capitalized Hidden People.

What's more, they're apparently supernatural beings who look very similar to humans, although they wear unfashionable clothes.

That would make them stand out all the more in a nation of hipsters such as Iceland (as any visit to pierced and tattooed Reykjavik will show).

As for elves, Skarphedinsson describes them as farmers and fishermen with a fondness for fortune telling.

When elves met our ancestors they explained the difference between right and wrong, "but we ignored them,” the headmaster says.

“We became liars and cheats -- poison to their ears.”

More on CNN: Inside the cold heart of an Icelandic volcano

Never cross an elf

That's why elves have a bone to pick with humans, which leads to the most important lesson at Elf School: never cross an elf.

In particular, disturb their homes (notably solitary rocks), and you’ll pay for it.

Skarphedinsson mentions a small boulder in a car park off Armula Street, near the school.

The car park used to be a chicken farm.

“The farmer who built the farm had a dream,” the headmaster says.

“An [elven voice] said, 'Save the big stone on the east of the land, because we live there.'

Mess with this boulder at your peril ... the troublesome Armula Street stone.“The farmer left the stone alone.

"But when he sold the farm, the new owners didn't show any respect.

"When they shifted the stone their chickens all stopped laying.

“Today everyone gives that stone space.”

I visit the site that evening.

The parking spot next to the stone is empty, although cars are double parked elsewhere.

Elf houses

Nowadays, Icelanders’ actions towards the Hidden Folk speak at least as loudly as their ambivalent words.

Many families have small wooden alfhol (elf houses) in their gardens for the tiny travelers.

A highway in Kopavogur was narrowed to accommodate a protruding stone said to be inhabited by elves.

Roadworks in Grasteinn were put on hold until a dwarf's boulder could be moved -- delicately -- to one side, and a hotel in Reykjavik (Hotel Klettur) has incorporated stones into a wall to prevent any bad elven feelings.

It's lonely out there. One theory is the Hidden People were created as imaginary friends for Icelanders seeking company.Despite his lifetime of research into the Hidden People, Skarphedinsson has a surprise up his sleeve.

He’s never seen one himself.

“I asked my psychic friend if she knew why,” he says.

“A few days later she told me one of the Hidden People had appeared to her in a dream and told her they'd agreed never to reveal themselves to me.”

“Why?” I ask.

“Because they thought I’d ask too many questions.”

Elf School (Sidumuli 31, Reykjavik; +354 588 6060) is open on Fridays, when three-hour seminars are held. The cost is €39 ($52) per person, including coffee and pancakes or waffles.

Groups of three or more can make special reservations if regular hours do not suit.

Attendees receive a certificate.

Tags:

Iceland

CNNGo in Reykjavik: Thermal pools and comfy sweaters

hiufu — Wed, 13 Nov 2013 04:00:00 +0000

This month, CNNGo visits the Icelandic capital -- dipping in its geothermal pools, hunting for the northern lights and boogying at one of the world's hippest music festivals

'Iceland is an archeologist's dream'
Making friends over tub talk
Watch incredible geyser eruption

For the capital of a country called Iceland, perhaps it's not surprising Reykjavik's pretty cool.

This month, CNN's roving TV show CNNGo took the temperature of the city with the help of a bunch of friendly Reykjavikers.

A trip to one of the city's geothermal pools was an essential stop, where Icelanders enjoy regular bouts of pottaspjall -- "tub talk."

But if that sounds too sedentary, the city's Airwaves Music Festival is one huge, rollicking alternative.

Then there's Kolaportið Market, with its fermented shark meat on sale, and the Hand-knitting Association of Iceland, which makes what's almost the country's uniform -- lopapeysa woolen sweaters.

Finally, the Golden Circle tour is a neat way to take in some of the country's greatest natural wonders.

Airwaves Music Festival

Not just Bjork, you know."The hippest long weekend on the annual music-festival calendar," happens in Reykjavik, according to Rolling Stone magazine.

The city's biggest event featured over 600 shows, taking place all over the city this year (October 3-November 3).

From traditional venues such as Reykavik's new convert hall Harpa to quirky locations like hairdresser salons and geothermal pools, Airwaves showcases performers from local outfits to international big names.

Iceland Airwaves

More on CNN: 11 of Reykjavik's coolest bars

Blue Lagoon and other geothermal pools

Tea time combines with bath time.It doesn't take a genius to understand why the Blue Lagoon is the most visited attraction among tourists in Iceland.

Sitting in the mid-Atlantic Ridge, the geothermal pools are naturally heated to around 40C and known to sooth bathers.

But for many residents, a visit to the public "hot-pot" in downtown Reykjavik and engaging in "pottaspjall," or tub-talk with your hot tub neighbors is the ideal way to start the day.

The Blue Lagoon, 240 Grindaví, Iceland; +354 420 8800

Vesturbaejarlaug pool, Hofsvallagata, 107 Reykjavik, Iceland; +354 411 5150

The Hand-knitting Association of Iceland

What they lack in sleek looks, they make up for in warmth.Founded in 1977 by hundreds of individual knitters, the Hand-knitting Association of Iceland is to support the knitters' livings by selling products handmade from Icelandic wool.

Their products can be found at the association's store. Special requests can be made during their monthly reception at Akranes, a town on the western coast of Iceland.

One of the most iconic designs would be the Lopapeysa sweater, with traditional patterns circling the collar.

Hand-Knitting Association of Iceland, Skólavörðustígur 19, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland; +354 552 1890

More on CNN: How to be a Reykjaviker: 8 ways to fit in

Kolaportið Market

Perfect souvenir hunting.Every city has its not-to-be-missed market, and in Reykjavik, it’s Kolaportið Market.

Fermented shark, dried fish and jewelry made from the frozen lava of Eyjafjallajökull volcano are among the treasures on sale here.

It lives by the mantra that one man’s junk is another man’s treasure.

Kolaportið Market, 101 Reykjavik, Iceland; +354 562 5030

Reykjavik’s "Golden Circle" tour

Iceland-in-a-day tours available.Reykjavik's "Golden Circle" tour might be the best way to tour Iceland for the first-time visitors.

The day tour packs Icelandic natural wonders including the country's oldest geyser that shoots hot water up 30 meters, the country's second-largest glacier and the spectacular Northern Lights.

Special "Super Jeep Day Tour" is available from Nature Explorer which tours around Reykjavik in a small group by a comfortable jeep.

Golden Circle tour, 8-10 hours departs daily at 9 a.m.; +354 691 3900

More on CNN: Elf School spills secrets of Iceland's 'Hidden People'

Guests

Hawk Parelius, adventure tour guide, Nature Explorer
Auður Ösp, blogger
Ragga Ragnarsdóttir, Olympic swimmer and fashion designer
Unnsteinn Stefansson, lead singer, Retro Stefson
Siggi Gardarsson, Depla food stall, Kolaportið market

Soundtrack

"Solaris" (3:38)
"Glow" (3:27)
"Qween" (5:11)
"Miss Nobody" (3:34)
"(o)Kami" (5:11)
"Time" (3:40)
"She Said" (4:09)
"True" (3:51)
"Fall" (3:36)
"Julia" (3:24)

All by Retro Stefson

Tags:

iceland travel

Reykjavik