CNN Travel

Now eat! Okinawan cuisine gets a makeover

karlac1 — Thu, 06 Mar 2014 22:00:21 +0000

How a unique island culture is taking its own version of "local" a step further

When it comes to food movements, the word “local” is a rarity in Okinawa.

That's because restaurants in Japan's southernmost prefecture have been doing the local thing long before it was trending.

Or even just trendy.

World-renowned for promoting health and longevity, traditional Okinawan cuisine uses primarily local ingredients.

What's more, it's easy to find.

Restaurants across this multiple-island prefecture dish out fresh, delicious fare ranging from braised pork rafute and custardy shima tofu, to stir-fried champaru and black sugar donuts -- recipes based on longstanding traditions dedicated to fresh ingredients.

More: Okinawan cuisine: The Japanese food you don't know

According to Kaori Yoshida, editor of Japanese-language website Calend-okinawa.com, the last five years have been particularly exciting on the Okinawa food scene.

“We started the website in 2009 not just to share our favorite places to eat, but to encourage people to grow and spread their ideas,” she says.

Since then, Yoshida says, a stream of new shop owners and chefs have arrived and infused passion, creativity and personal interpretations of island living into an already vibrant eating culture.

Suien

Meet the bakers: Soichi and Kaoru Morishita. Soichi and Kaoru Morishita opened the doors to Suien three years ago.

On most days, the bakery sells out of its assortment of naturally leavened breads.

Cinnamon rolls, savory cheese boules, steamed black sugar buns and sweet rye loaves are baked in a handmade brick oven, and displayed in the couple’s beautifully decorated café.

“We wanted to create a space where people could come to relax and enjoy a natural setting with good food sourced from our area,” says Kaoru.

Suien literally means "water circle."

Following their namesake, the owners aim to impart the best of their community, flowing from grower to chef to guest.

Lunch plate sets rotate weekly, sometimes daily, depending on what’s seasonal and available.

Thick slices of house bread are combined with soup and an assortment of delicious vegetables, all served on Okinawa-crafted pottery.

Suien, 367 Zakimi, Yomitan, Nakagami, Okinawa; +81 098 958 3239; open Sunday-Wednesday, 10:30 a.m.-7 p.m.

More on CNN: Five must visit Okinawa castles

Cafe and Zakka Lamp

You won't find another cafe owner in Okinawa who loves Morocco as much as Aya Yoshida.

“Honestly, I just wanted everyone to eat couscous,” says Aya Yoshida of her motivation for opening Café and Zakka Lamp.

Originally from Kobe, Aya moved to Okinawa 10 years ago with a desire to share her love of all things Moroccan.

Traveling there at least once a year, Aya supplies her zakka (a savvy shop of “many things") with original items from Moroccan artists and open markets.

The front of her shop is filled with colorful antiques, trinkets, housewares and jewelry, good for browsing while waiting on lunch or dinner.

Aya’s favorite dish is lemon-cream chicken couscous, served with fresh salad and house pickles.

It pairs well with a refreshing ginger ale, mixed with her original ginger-spice syrup.

Aya recommends finishing meals with a spicy chai and warm scone set with whipped butter and honey.

“Everything we serve is made from scratch,” she says.

Café and Zakka Lamp, 2-3-25 Matsuo, Naha City, Okinawa; +81 098 863 2491; open Tuesday-Sunday, noon-7 p.m.

Gallivant Café

If you want to eat at Miki Kawamoto's Gallivant Café, the window of opportunity is short. It's open on Saturdays only.

Gallivant Café feels more like a homecoming party than a shop.

Owner Miki Kawamoto opens her bakery only once a week, making sandwiches with fresh ingredients from Ginoza-area farms.

There's a wide selection of sweet and savory breads, served with an assortment of handmade jams, spreads and preserves.

Other days Miki teaches bread making, taking her students through a full course of mixing, kneading, rising, baking and eating.

Friends Kimie Fukui, Emiko Suzuki and Hiroho Tokudome joined her class on a recent Friday afternoon.

“It’s great instruction,” says Emiko, as Miki explains the finer details of her raisin enzyme starter.

“The best part is lunch,” says Kimie. Students eat their own creations, along with a full meal including salad, loaded pan focaccia, soup and dessert.

Afterward, Miki escorts students to Shiradou Farm, where they meet the farmer who grows the baby leaf greens that fills Gallivant's salad bowls.

Gallivant, 35 Matsuda, Ginoza, Kunigami District, Okinawa; +81 080 2695 0276; open from 9 a.m., Saturday only; bread class by reservation

More on CNN: Awamori: A guide to Okinawa's tropical drink of choice

JiJi Café

Funkiest restaurant in Kitanakagusuku.

Robin Aoki opened JiJi Café in Kitanakagusuku in a closed market building in 2008.

Most nights it's packed.

A professional musician, Aoki is the force behind the funky décor and food.

Dried flowers, plants and antique frames hang from the ceiling.

Abstract paintings cover the walls.

A Kitanakagusuku native, Aoki wanted to exert a positive and unique influence his village.

“There was nothing here when we first began planning for the shop,” says Robin. “Maybe just a cleaner and lots of old houses.”

Over the years, JiJi has become a mainstay of the community.

Dishes include Okinawa vegetables fondued in white cheese, creamy omelette rice with edamame sauce, and tandoori chicken cutlet with spicy blue cheese dressing.

JiJi Café, 1422-3 Shimabuku, Kitanakagusuku, Nakagami District, Okinawa; +81 098 987 7515; open daily except Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. (last order)

More: Okinawa: Which island is for you?

Portriver

Tetsuya and Miki Mugishima set up shop in a former "foreigner house."

Tetsuya and Miki Mugishima have taken remnants of historic Okinawa and turned them into a space of their own.

Originally from Tokyo, the couple moved to Okinawa for a change of pace, deciding to establish a home and store in former American military housing space.

Gaijin Jutaku, or “foreigner houses," are spread throughout the island -- square concrete bungalows built after WWII to house a rapidly growing American military population.

“We like the wide spaces,” Tetsuya says, pointing out that the large rooms contrast with the small spaces many Japanese call home.

“It’s perfect for setting up shop without having to leave the family."

“We basically stock the things we enjoy,” says Miki.

Portriver assumes the role of general store in its small bungalow community of Minatogawa, while offering delicious sandwiches with bread from the bakery down the street and aromatic coffee from the roaster around the corner.

Portriver Market, 2-15-8 Minatogawa #30, Urasoe, Okinawa; +81 098 911 8931; open daily except Tuesday, 11:30 a.m.-6 p.m.

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Paris colors -- one photographer's multi-hued take on the city

sbusch — Tue, 04 Mar 2014 06:00:00 +0000

Nichole Robertson roams the French capital capturing its browns, yellows, blues and more, for a blog and book

When Nichole Robertson relocated to Paris from New York more than four years ago, she roamed the city.

She soon hit upon a distinctive way of documenting her wanderings.

She took photos of particular colors she found popping out against that characteristic Paris gray, then went on a scavenger hunt to find where in the city those colors -- a certain rust red, say, or eggshell blue -- recurred.

She posted the resulting photographic series on a blog (now archived at Obvioustate.com).

The bestseller

And then the part that doesn't usually happen: the blog went viral and led to a bestselling book, "Paris in Color."

The images are clearly Parisian, but organized in a novel and engaging fashion.

Like so many new arrivals in Paris, Robertson at first traipsed around the city’s most popular sights, such as Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe.

She noticed visitors dutifully pulling back to snap pictures of their travel companions in front of these classic attractions and then dutifully putting their cameras away.

Robertson decided to go for an opposite approach: focusing in on detail and color.

She took shots that highlighted the varying shades of brown in a row of baguettes, a bicycle saddle bag and an aged stone building façade, for example.

She focused on yellow as it cropped up in a café façade, a tart in a patisserie or flowers in a window basket.

Capture the details

“The details are the things that you will actually remember -- capture those,” Robertson advises photographers.

She seeks out culture, bits of nature thriving in the city and moments of human interaction.

Neutral grays and browns are featured prominently in her work; bouncing against each other, they feel lively.

Robertson’s color-seeking approach is surprising, given the uniformly neutral shade that prevails in so much of Paris.

Buildings are typically off-white or gray -- an ideal canvas for shocks of color, as well as the more subtle shades, she sought out.

Robertson prefers a dull, overcast sky.

When the sun is shining and the sky is blue, she puts down her camera and heads to a café.

Robertson’s project is, in a sense, all about surface -- surface color -- but she also feels it gives her a sense of the city’s underlying rhythms and quirks.

Shapes or theme

You needn’t just focus on a color, Robertson suggests.

Any repeating shape or theme will do.

Parisian typography, pastries or transportation methods are all good starting points for re-focusing the way you see things.

“It might seem absurd just to wander around Paris,” Robertson says, especially if you have limited time there.

But to really get to know the city she recommends choosing a particular area and doing just that, even for one day, noticing the quirks and repeating themes -- and photographing them.

The same approach works equally well in many other old European cities, such as Rome.

As for Robertson, she returns again and again to Montmartre, the Left Bank, and the banks of the Seine, all of which she also documents in an iPhone app, The Paris Journals.

“Paris gets distilled down to one or two icons that don’t capture all the other equally good stuff you see," she says.

"The good stuff is in the side streets.”

Insider Guide: Best of Rome

jdurston01 — Wed, 12 Feb 2014 22:00:00 +0000

The best pizza, the finest coffee, the coolest attractions that aren't the Colosseum -- Italy in one magnificent long weekend

Finding the best of Rome... You want pizza, but not just any pizza.

You need a coffee but, hell, not a Starbucks coffee.

You want to discover one of humanity’s most history-rich cities, but you have limited time and don’t want to get run down by a Vespa doing so.

We know. And we know how to do it.

From ancient monuments like the Ara Pacis to the designer shops of Via dei Condotti; from the best places for a square of pizza as well as picking out the Italian capital’s best coffee bar (OK, we narrowed it down to two), our scroll-down guide to the best of Rome is your ticket to condensed culture.

Dive in and reach out. Because, sure, the Colosseum’s great, but there are plenty of lesser-known places that will make a few days in Rome last a lifetime.

Print and go -- Our traveler-friendly one-page guide here: Best of Rome

Hotels

Luxury

To really discover the best of Rome, there's a lot of walking to do -- so choosing a hotel in the city center is wise.

The Trastevere area is great if you want to be near the thriving night scene, while hotels around Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo and Campo de' Fiori also provide short walks to good pizzerias, restaurants and bars from which you can also organize an efficient sightseeing plan of attack.

The area around Termini has excellent hotels, but be warned that this is a less peaceful part of town, and you might not feel comfortable walking the streets around the station late at night.

Whatever you do in the day, get back here for sunset.

The First

This super-chic, five-star art hotel just around the corner from Piazza del Popolo attracts well-heeled guests who want a base in the heart of Rome's shopping district (it's near Via di Ripetta).

The ground floor bar and restaurant are quiet havens away from the hordes of Vespas and shoppers, but the real attraction is the seventh-floor terrace.

The hotel offers one of Rome's best views: roof-top tiles, domes and bell towers -- best enjoyed at sunset, with a Negroni cocktail in hand.

The restaurant also provides kosher food on request (a hat-tip to the building's Jewish history).

The 30 rooms (many are suites, some with private lounge-terraces) and the public spaces have been decorated with 150 original artworks, including an inquisitive looking white cow in the foyer.

As with all hotels in Rome, check their website for discounts.

The First, Via del Vantaggio, 14; +39 06 4561 7070; Rooms from €240 ($324)

So you can enjoy the view, the meal and your company. Hotel Lunetta

This four-star hotel near Campo de' Fiori will wow you with its ultra-modern black-and-white marble interiors (and 30 recently refurbished rooms), but it’s a surprise in the basement that’ll have you posting on Facebook -- the original Roman-era walls of the Theater of Pompey, where Julius Caesar was murdered on the Ides of March, 44BC.

Hotel Lunetta doesn't have a restaurant (you're a skip away from plenty of Rome's best eateries -- for excellent pasta or northern Italian fondue try Taverna da Lucifero on the other side of Campo de' Fiori; Via dei Capellari, 28) -- but there's a luxury spa and rooftop terrace for guests.

The historic hotel (there's been a hostel at the site since the 14th century) was re-opened after renovation in July 2011.

Hotel Lunetta, Piazza del Paradiso, 68, Rome; +39 06 6839 5056; Rooms from €152 ($205) in low season

One roof you won't want to come down from.Hotel Campo de' Fiori

The best thing about this hotel is its private rooftop terrace, with a 360-degree city view so good that people sit up there even on cold winter evenings.

Guests are positively encouraged by the hotel's friendly staff to take a book, a bottle of wine and/or a pizza to the roof.

This homey, four-star pad has comfortable baroque-style rooms with expensive drapes, wooden beams and sparkling chandeliers.

The hotel is about 10 meters from historic Campo de' Fiori, home to a busy market from Monday-Saturday until 1:30 p.m.

These days the market sells vegetables and fish as well as flowers -- and the piazza is a magnet for wine-loving, café-bound locals and tourists come evening.

Hotel Campo de’ Flori, Via del Biscione, 6, Rome; +39 06 6880 6865; rooms from €141 ($191) in low season

Mid-Range

Well located, stylishly done.

Hotel Sunset Roma

This modest guesthouse is a good spot from which to see the best of Rome in the day and explore the narrow streets of Monti in the evening.

With its small bars and trattorias -- try L'Asino d'Oro on Via del Boschetto 73, it does a great lunch for €12 ($16) -- this residential quarter has an old-Rome feel to it.

The building dates from 1870, but has recently been renovated and the clean, airy rooms are a comfy, cheaper alternative to some of the city's more luxurious hotels. It also offers free Wi-Fi.

The hotel is on the street that runs between Via Nazionale (where you'll find one of Rome's biggest galleries, Palazzo delle Esposizioni) and the Colosseum.

There's also a modern apartment, ideal for two adults and two children, with a lounge and kitchen.

Hotel Sunset Roma, Via dei Serpenti 97, +39 06 479 933; rooms from €90 ($122) per night in low season, apartments from €130 ($176)

Pretty in pink, but complete with Jacuzzis. Brunetti 28

This family-run guest house is a short walk from Piazza del Popolo -- but also a stone's throw from the Museo dell'Ara Pacis, the altar to peace built by Augustus, first emperor of the Roman empire. It's among the most impressive monuments in the city.

Brunetti 28 has seven rooms on two floors -- the double rooms aren't huge, but they're big enough and well appointed. There are also triple rooms. Some rooms have Jacuzzis.

Guests can breakfast on a small terrace in summer, or retreat there after a long day of walking around the city.

Brunetti 28, Via Angelo Brunetti, 28, Rome; +39 06 3250 4824; rooms from €110 ($149), triple rooms up to €300 ($405)

Budget

The "budget" label doesn't get you as little as it used to. Hotel Navona

Location is really the key to this unpretentious establishment. As the name suggests, it's a mere hop away from the famous Roman piazza in the heart of the city's ancient monuments, restaurants and nightlife district.

Brandishing just two stars, you'd expect facilities to be spartan -- yet the rooms are clean, comfortable, and have free Wi-Fi, A/C, TV and private bathrooms.

The hotel is within easy walking distance of Campo de' Fiori and the Pantheon and, despite the hubbub around the center, Navona is on one of the quieter streets, situated in its own 15th-century building.

Hotel Navona, Via dei Sediari, 8; +39 06 6830 1252; nightly rate ranges from €60 ($81) in low season to €99 ($134) in high season

Restaurants

Food plays a major part in discovering the best of Rome. But you need to know that many of Rome’s restaurants serve lunch and dinner at certain times.

For dinner, most restaurants give you a three-hour window from 8 to 11 p.m. Some do stay open later.

Most Italians eat at 8.30 to 9 p.m. every night, though if a restaurant is geared towards tourists it will serve earlier, even 5 p.m.

Lunch is invariably served from 12:30 to 3 p.m.

The basement is largely the same as it was during the Roman Republic.Spirito DiVino

Tucked away in a quieter part of Trastevere, this gem of a restaurant serves up mouth-watering local dishes such as homemade pasta with pumpkin and gorgonzola, artichoke clafoutis or orange-perfumed guinea fowl.

Chef Eliana Catalani began her career as a scientific researcher, alongside Nobel Prize winner Rita Levi-Montalcini, before opening Spirito DiVino with her husband and son Francesco. Her scientific approach hasn't been lost in the kitchen, with a menu that emphasizes and combines quality local meats, cheeses and vegetables, all carefully sourced from slow-food producers.

The restaurant is located in a historic part of the city, once the Jewish quarter before it moved across the river. In fact, the building was once a synagogue, its basement -- now a well-stocked wine cellar -- dating back to 80 BC.

Spirito DiVino, Via dei Genovesi 31 A/B; +39 06 5896 689; moderate-expensive

The menu changes with the tide, but is consistently excellent.Bistrot del Mare

This bistro in the city center, a 15-minute walk from Piazza Navona, is one of the best fish restaurants in Rome. The raw fish tartare starter and sea urchin ('ricci di mare') spaghetti are two of its revered signature dishes.

You can choose from the menu or from a display of the day's catch. The emphasis here really is on the locally-sourced seafood, brought in daily from Lazio's ports and cooked to your taste.

It's pricey, but the general consensus is that it's worth it for the professional service, intimate ambience and fresh ingredients. All desserts are made on site, with chocolate and seasonal fruit featuring heavily. This restaurant is a favorite with Romans and visitors alike.

Bistrot del Mare, Via dei Banchi Nuovi 51/52; +39 06 6819 2228; expensive

Look out for the wild bunnies.

Mò Mò Republic

This grand old palazzo, with its dark wooden staircases, big leather armchairs and muted lighting, has the warmth and elegance of a 1930s colonial villa.

The restaurant specializes in meat and fish dishes, but the large menu includes plenty of pasta, pizza, salads and desserts, including vegetarian options.

Mò Mò Republic can seat up to 600, so it gets very busy. Even so, the waiters rarely miss a beat.

The wooden terrace is a great spot in summer, but the best way to enjoy this place is by sipping a cocktail in the garden after dinner, admiring the ghostly spherical tree lights and watching the wild dwarf rabbits play around your feet. Yes, the rabbits have free run of the villa's grounds.

Because of the space, it's a great place for groups and provides good value. You may even spot a young Serie A footballer among the crowd.

Mò Mò Republic, Piazza Forlanini 10, Rome; +39 06 537 3087; moderate

The best and smartest way to enjoy basic Italian antipasto. Il Cortile

This family-run trattoria is one of the best in Monteverde, the area on the Janiculum hill above St Peter's and Trastevere.

This is simple but delicious Italian cuisine at its best -- freshly made pasta in classic sauces (including plain tomato with basil, pesto, ragù or porcini mushrooms with black truffle) and fresh fish and meat.

The best item on the menu is arguably the buffet antipasto -- a rich array of vegetable dishes such as Roman artichokes, baked eggplant, breaded fennel, omelets, cheeses and salads -- all prepared with great attention to quality, detail, taste and presentation.

The wines are excellent, desserts impeccable and the place is immaculately clean. Il Cortile may not be easy to reach -- figure on a €10 ($13.50) cab ride from the city center -- but it's worth every Euro of the fare.

After dinner, the belvedere on the Janiculum hill provides one of the best views of Rome at night.

Il Cortile, Via Alberto Mario 26; +39 6 5803 433; moderate-expensive

Get ready. The best pizza in Rome is coming your way. La Gatta Mangiona

Another fine eatery in Monteverde Vecchio is the pizzeria and restaurant La Gatta Mangiona (“the greedy cat”) on Via F. Ozanam. Getting there requires a cab, car or strong pair of legs -- it's 1.8 kilometers (just over a mile) from Trastevere train station.

These pizzas are thicker than the usual thin Roman variety. The dough is the long-rising kind and is light, crisp and tasty. Toppings come in unusual combinations, which are displayed on the monthly pizza menu.

Some of the fried starters (supplì, or asparagus and saffron arancine) are also great, but the falafel has been adapted to Italian palates, so lacks a bit of authentic spice. Then again, only a die-hard falafel fanatic would place such an order at one of the greatest pizzerias in town.

There's a wide variety of specialty beer and wines to accompany the pasta, meat and fish dishes.

La Gatta Mangiona, Via F. Ozanam 30-32; +39 06 534 6702; moderate

Looks basic, tastes divine. Pizza Roman-style

Naples may be famous as the birthplace of pizza, and the typical thick, light Neapolitan dough base has become the accepted model of the perfect pizza the world over.

In Rome, however, pizzas are slightly different. Most pizzerias make them with very thin, crispy bases.

Find the best of Rome's Roman style pizzas here: Try Pizzeria Li Rioni (Via SS. Quattro 24; +39 06 7045 0605) near the Colosseum or Pizzeria Panattoni: Ai Marmi/L'Obitorio (Viale Trastevere 53; +39 06 580 0919).

If you're staying near St Peter's, La Fornace and La Rustichella, both on Via Angelo Emo, are good.

In the center, La Montecarlo (Vicolo Savelli 13; +39 06 686 1877) is open late, with service that's fast and friendly. The pizza is thin and served on metal plates with paper table sheets.

La Foccaccia (Via della Pace, 11; +39 06 6880 3312) near Piazza Navona does good, slightly thicker-bottomed pizzas.

Pizza-al-taglio (pizza sold by the square) is also a great way to get a quick snack or a cheap lunch if you're on the go. Il Forno Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34) near Campo de' Fiori is legendary. Forno di Campo de' Fiori is popular with local office workers (Vicolo del Gallo 14).

One pizza-al-taglio that really stands out is Pizzarium (Via della Meloria 43; +39 06 3974 5416). It may not look impressive and is a bit out of the way (near Cipro metro station), but it has a devoted following among Romans in the know.

Chef Gabriele Bonci uses high-quality ingredients to create a light and crispy base with just the right amount of sponginess, and some inventive toppings that change daily. Artichoke and gorgonzola is impressive, but then so is plain margherita.

Perhaps only a gourmand would go out of their way to Pizzarium just for a square of pizza. Your average Giuseppe might think that paying two or three times the normal price for a bit of pizza is excessive.

Nightlife

Bars in Rome are a world away from the sweat-drenched, alcohol-fueled venues you’ll find in London or New York. You don’t really get what you might call a “coffee shop” either.

You just get bars, and most bars sell food.

All bars make coffee, either hoping to cash in on or cultivate the average Italian’s penchant for drinking espresso two or three times a day. They also offer a range of spirits.

Some double as pasticcerias, selling cakes, bicuits, cornetti (croissants), desserts and the kind of things you'd get in a French patisserie. Many sell ice cream.

So, bars are multi-use, good for breakfast (capuccino and a cornetto), coffee and snacks (a "spuntino"), aperitivos before lunch and dinner and “tramezzini,” triangular sandwiches at lunchtime. There are many to choose from, but below are our picks for the best of Rome's bars.

Can't see your branded shoes, so don't care about them.

Circolo degli Artisti

This relaxed venue is one of the places in Rome where no one is going to notice or care what brand of shoes you're wearing. It attracts a young-at-heart crowd that comes to sip cold drinks under leafy branches on hot summer evenings, or take evening walks around the maze-like garden.

Bands perform regularly -- including many up-and-coming indie acts -- and there are comedy and house music nights too. Check their website for events.

Food is a primary consideration -- pizzas, starters and other main courses are available at the al fresco restaurant.

Circolo degli Artisti, Via Casilina Vecchia 42, Rome; +39 06 7030 5684

Cozy gone crazy.Black Market

This shabby-chic music venue in the ever-lively Monti area of Rome is a stone's throw from Termini station and the Colosseum. Trademarks include comfy beaten-up armchairs, a gigantic lampshade at the entrance and ice-breaking portraits on the walls (the oil painting of Lenin is guaranteed to lift any flagging conversation).

It all adds to the relaxed but trendy atmosphere that's proving very popular with a young ex-pat crowd that doesn't seem to mind that the cocktails are served in jam jars. The bar showcases young artists in its gallery and there are regular 'Unplugged in Monti' private evenings for members (it's pretty easy to become a member through the club's website), with live acoustic music, food and drinks.

It's a homey corner to sit down and read a book with a beer for an afternoon, but be warned: on the weekends it's packed to the rafters.

Black Market, Via Panisperna 101, Rione Monti; +39 339 8227 541

DJs at Vicious play whatever they can see. This one's spinning flatbread.Vicious

This is probably Rome's "It" club of the moment, but forget about Italian style. In fact, definitely don't bother dressing up -- this is really not a place to see and be seen.

Inside it's as dark and claustrophobic as the left pocket of Donnie Darko's rabbit costume. Vicious is really just about the music and the dancing -- the sweatier the better.

The schedule takes a relaxed intro into the week with cocktails and DJ sets on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, open from 10 p.m. 'til late. Club nights at Vicious include Butter on Thursdays, billed as "the coolest underground club in town" and inspired by the 1970s and '80s New York club scene. If that's not to your taste try Alchemy on Saturdays or Rock'n Yolk's indie-rap vibe on Fridays.

Just remember to bring a flashlight or infrared glasses.

Vicious, Via Achille Grandi 7A; +39 06 7061 4349; moderate

From the Italian for "resembling burl."Micca Club

This stalwart of vintage Roman burlesque nights is in its eighth year and has recently moved to new premises in the center of town, just round the corner from Piazza Barberini.

Spread over two floors, Micca's live dance shows take place at around 11 p.m., but arrive early for an aperitivo (a glass of wine and a snack), which is sometimes included in the entrance fee (€10/$13.60 – check the website for details).

It's a glamorous venue with its tongue firmly lodged in cheek, where a fun-seeking clientele tends to be on the riper side of 30. If burlesque isn't your jam, the vinyl DJ sets will keep you on the dance floor till the early hours with tunes from the 1950s, '60s and '70s.

Micca Club, Via degli Avignonesi, 73 (Piazza Barberini); +39 393 3236 244

Rome's best Tiramisù.

Bar Gelateria Pompi

There's just one name when it comes to tiramisù in Rome -- Pompi.

Nothing else comes close to the little dishes of creamy almost runny mascarpone layered with rich coffee-soaked pavesini biscuits that Giuliano Pompi has been making in Rome since the 1960s.

The bar in Via Albalonga (near Piazza Re di Roma in the San Giovanni area) is where it all began.

Pompi has since branched out from the traditional coffee and chocolate recipe. They now do a pistacchio tiramisù and other flavors including banana, strawberry and Nutella. Classic coffee is still king, though.

They've also opened a second bar in the heart of one of Rome's nightlife hubs -- Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, a 30-minute walk north up Via Flaminia from Piazza del Popolo.

Bar Gelateria Pompi, Via Albalonga 7B/9/11; +39 06 700 0418; and Via Cassia 8B/8C; +39 06 333 3488

Three coffee beans and a mouthful of pleasure. Cristalli di Zucchero

When Gambero Rosso, one of the most prestigious publishers of restaurant/food guides in Italy, awards three coffee beans and three espresso coffee cups to a bar, it can only mean one thing: that bar is hot.

In the world of coffee bars and pasticcerias, these symbols carry the same weight as a Michelin star, so Cristalli di Zucchero is well endowed.

Locals go crazy for its croissants and panettone.

Is it the best in Rome? Well, the only other bar in Rome awarded three cups and three beans from Rosso is the Stravinskij Bar in the Hotel de Russie (Via del Babuino 9; +39 06 32 88 88 74).

The “Healthy Hour” cocktails, created by award-winning barman Massimo D'Addezio, are delicious, but so are the hedonistic alcoholic ones.

Cristalli de Zucchero, Via di Val Tellina 114 and Via San Teodoro 88 (standing room only in the latter); +39 06 5823 0323

Drink, watch, enjoy. Caffè Capitolino

Exploring the wonders of the Roman Forum or the breathtaking Capitoline Museums is undeniably thirsty work. Don't miss the colossal head, hands and feet of Constantine the Great in the museum's internal courtyard or the impressive bronze Marcus Aurelius on horseback.

Caffè Capitolino is a perfect place to take a break from the history and it's open to the public, not just Capitoline Museum ticket holders.

Standing on the Campidoglio, with your back to Via del Teatro Marcello and the grand flight of steps, take a right around the side of the Capitoline Museums and you'll see Palazzo Caffarelli on your left, in front of Piazzale Caffarelli.

The side entrance will take you to the second floor and Caffè Capitolino, where you can have a relaxed lunch, cake, coffee or drinks. The café's terraces offer excellent views across the Roman Forum and city rooftops.

Caffe Capitolino, Piazza Caffarelli, 4; +39 06 6919 0564

Just drink it, don't try to figure it out. The best coffee in Rome?

Much has been said and written about the best coffee in Rome, but there seems to be consensus that it's found within a stone's throw of the Pantheon.

Sant'Eustacchio il Caffè is a small bar in the piazza of the same name where they make their espressos behind a screen to keep the process secret. The bar also sells small packets of coffee that make great gifts.

But Sant'Estacchio has a rival in the form of Tazza d'Oro, on the other side of the Pantheon. Many visitors try both, get wired and then decide which is the best of Rome.

Sant'Eustacchio il Caffè, Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82; +39 06 6880 2048

Tazza d'Oro, Via degli Orfani 84; +39 06 6789 792

Tazza d'Oro. Contender for best coffee in Rome. Other bars

Many other bars in Rome are also worth a mention, including:

Pasticceria Mondi (Via Flaminia Vecchia 468, +39 06 333 6466; near Ponte Milvio) is legendary among locals for its exquisite ice cream, pastries and cakes. A must if you're in Piazzale Ponte Milvio.

At Doppio Zero (Via Ostiense 68; +39 06 5730 1961), the aperitivo buffet is a feast in itself. The surrounding area of Garbatella is also worth exploring.

Oasi della Birra (Piazza Testaccio 41; +39 06 574 6122) is half-tavern, half-shop, a fascinating locale jammed with quality wines, beer, artisan-made chocolate and other superior comestibles. In addition to an extensive wine, beer and snacks list, there are more than 150 types of cheese on the menu and, for the brave, about 10 kinds of (flavored) lard. There's also a good pre-dinner buffet.

Open Baladin (Via degli Specchi, 6; +39 06 683 8989), near Campo de' Fiori, is the place for tasting and revering beer in the same way that sommeliers drink wine. If that's not your style, it's still a quiet spot where the beer, with hints of bergamot and coriander, isn't your usual Heineken.

Angelina (Via Poli 27; +39 06 679 7274) is just off Via del Tritone in the city center. A perfect pit stop from shopping, this is a cozy little café adjoined to a restaurant where you can usually get a seat. The tiramisù and fruit tarts are great.

Shopping

Rome can't compete with Milan for high-end designer shopping, but the glut of boutiques along Via dei Condotti and Via del Babuino provide a panoply of options for anyone looking for a Prada handbag or Gucci gown.

Shopping in Rome isn't just about the high fashion. For interesting and less expensive clothes and shoes, explore the small side streets off Via del Corso and Via dei Condotti.

Other good shopping streets include Via di Campo Marzio, Via dei Giubbonari (near Campo de' Fiori) and Via del Governo Vecchio.

San Lorenzo (the area south of La Sapienza University) is also dotted with unique boutiques with humane prices, and the same can be said of Monti (around the Viminal Hill and Via Panisperna).

Look out for the small artisans' workshops and family-owned businesses selling locally made products -- several are mentioned below.

Don't know what it is, but it's made of inner tubes and bits of trucks -- no wonder.

Città dell'altra Economia

Città dell'altra Economia (CAE) in Testaccio is an eye-opening place, run by Rome's city council and a group of non-profit organizations whose aim is to develop a space and community dedicated to production and commercial activities that are fair trade and eco-friendly.

Occhio del Riciclone is one of the organizations that sells its products at CAE. It works with the local Roma community to recycle objects that others discard.

There are bags made of old truck seat belts, rings made of bicycle inner tubes, reconditioned clothes and much more.

Nearby is a small café and a supermarket selling local organic produce. Here you can find “pecorino Romano” sheep's cheese and pasta made of spelt wheat -- look for “spaghetti al faro” -- from the Sabine hills outside Rome.

CAE and the surrounding area is worth at least half a day. It's not easy to find (there's a map on the CAE website), tucked away behind Monte Testaccio, a small hillock and ancient Roman rubbish dump. It’s made entirely of fragments of terracotta dolia, used during the Roman Empire to import olive oil from provinces in Spain and north Africa into the hub of ancient Rome.

Two millennia later, restaurants and bars have nestled at the base of Monte Testaccio. Checchino dal 1887 is renowned for its traditional Roman fare. Opposite is the Macro, one of Rome's best contemporary art galleries.

Citta dell’Atra Economia, Largo Dino Frisullo, inside the old abattoir (called the "ex mattatoio"); +39 06 5730 0419

A street full of lovely (and yes, expensive) brands.Rome's fashion district

Rome may not be Caput Mundi for the world of high fashion, but you're not going to be stuck for choice either.

For the best of Rome's high-end designer clothes, shoes and bags, Via dei Condotti (between Via del Corso and Piazza di Spagna) has all the big names. This is where Rome's fashionistas like to stroll. You’ll lose count of the high heels and small dogs.

But there's much more to Rome's shopping scene than Via dei Condotti. Other small streets around Via del Corso are worth exploring for their small boutiques -- including Via del Babuino, Via Vittoria and Via Belsiana.

Via Margutta is home to a series of small artists' ateliers and is a good place to scout for an original or antique artwork.

An elegant lunch spot is Il Margutta (Via Margutta 118), a vegetarian restaurant that puts on regular contemporary art exhibitions.

Two Italian-owned stores that stand out for quality (with medium to high prices) are Empresa and Ethic. The latter is geared mainly toward younger women and sells pretty printed dresses and quality knits -- 85 percent of their products are made in Italy and there are 10 stores in Rome.

Empresa sells quality tailoring and footwear for men and women. There are five stores in Rome and one in Venice.

Empresa: Via dei Giubbonari 25/26 and 101/102; +39 06 4543 4896

Ethic, Via Cola di Rienzo 265/A; +39 06 322 4621

Best place for some 15th-century balsam. Ai Monasteri

This extraordinary old-fashioned herbal apothecary’s fame is well deserved.

Owned by the local Nardi family since 1894, it specializes in herbal balsams, elixirs and creams, as well as chocolate, honey, grappa and limoncello, all of it produced in Italy's abbeys.

A star product is the Balsamo Francescano, a secret herbal concoction containing 14 plants first made by Franciscan monks in Viterbo in the 15th century.

It's said to cure many maladies -- one customer who bought huge quantities said, “It's great for when my cows catch cold!”

Other potions on sale include elixirs for happiness, love and long life. As the shop owners explain, herbal distillations help cleanse and regenerate the kidneys and liver, providing a boost of energy and well-being.

A bottle of Balsamo Francescano will set you back €23 ($31).

Ai Monasteri, Corso Rinascimento, 72, Rome; +39 06 6880 2783

Artistic sculptures for your finger. Negri

This small silversmith's workshop and boutique on Via Campo Marzio has been in the Negri family for over 60 years. Now owned by the third generation, Fabrizio Negri specializes in micro-sculptures in precious metals including silver, gold and colored titanium.

Many of the modern designs are unique or limited editions. The Parole series of silver jewelry incorporates your choice of phrase into its sleek rings and bracelets. The MyOtto jewelry range is inspired by pets, dachshund dogs in particular, as the “bassotto” is a popular breed in Italy.

Negri also uses natural minerals and wood combined with silver to create unusual brooches, earrings and pendants. They also produce bigger items, such as lamps.

Artisans can often be seen at work through the shop window.

Negri, Via di Campo Marzio, 36; +39 06 687 1192

His and hers perfume -- in one bottle. Profumum Roma

Established by the Durante family in 1996, Profumum produces a range of more than 20 unisex perfumes in its four Rome stores.

Three Durante brothers and one sister (Giuseppe, Felice, Luciano and Maria) produce their perfumes with a high concentration of essential oils for long-lasting effect.

One of the most popular products is Acqua di Sale, a fresh, marine perfume with notes of myrtle.

The streets around Via del Corso, Via del Babuino and Via di Ripetta (the three streets that fork southeast from Piazza del Popolo) are dotted with perfume shops, but this Rome-based business is a great place to go if you want to take home scents of the eternal city.

Profumum Roma, Via di Ripetta, 10, Rome; +39 06 320 0306

Attractions

St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican, the Colosseum and the Roman Forum are the star attractions on most tourist itineraries.

It would be a shame to visit Rome without a glimpse of these iconic sites -- but if you're short on time and can't stand queues, there are some smaller attractions that give an interesting insight into the best of Rome's history and culture.

Get up close and personal.

The Colosseum

Rome's most photogenic landmark, the Colosseum looks good from just about all angles, even from below ground. You can see for yourself if you visit one of the tunnels (where gladiators waited before a fight), which have been opened to the public in recent years.

Tickets are €12 ($16) at the gate and include entrance to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. Tickets and guided tours in English can be booked online through Coopculture.it.

The Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, 1; +39 06 3996 7700

And this is just the ceiling. The Vatican Museums

Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel is another must, but the Vatican Museums also hold some of the most precious sculptures from ancient Rome and Greece (such as Laocoön and His Sons), not to mention an extensive Etruscan collection.

You can book your entrance ticket to the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel online (recommended, there are often long queues). For adults it's €15 ($20) plus a €4 booking fee. Admission for children 18 years and younger, or students under 26, is €8 ($11) at biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

The Vatican Museums, Viale Vaticano; +39 06 6988 3145; closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of the month, when it's free from 9:00 a.m.-12:30 a.m.) as well as on certain religious days (see the website for a full list).

St. Peter's tomb lies directly under St. Peter's baldachin. Take a deep breath before you walk under. St Peter's Necropolis

The necropolis under St Peter's is as interesting as the basilica above -- try to book as far in advance as possible through the Vatican's excavations office.

There is an interesting virtual tour of the 'scavi' here.

St. Peter’s Necropolis, +39 06 6987 3017; ticket from $16.50; entrance and guided tour is €12 and reservations should be made by e-mail to scavi@fsp.va, stating the number of visitors, preferred dates and times and preferred language. Visitors must be 15 years old or older.

The dome of St Peter's Basilica is breathtaking; both inside and out. St Peter's Basilica

St Peter's Basilica is unmissable if you're in Rome -- its 453-foot-high dome can be seen from most points in the city. The queue to get in often snakes around St Peter's colonnaded square -- but it usually moves quickly.

You have to go through security and the dress code is strict -- no short skirts, shorts or bare shoulders, even in summer. Once you're in, the sheer size of the basilica and the richness of its interior is astounding. Don't miss Michelangelo's touching Pietà or Bernini's spiral baldachin.

St. Peter’s Basilica, Fabbrica di San Pietro in Vaticano; +39 06 6988 3731; admission is free

A walk through two millennia of history. Case Romane al Celio

This archaeological layer cake of a monument takes you inside a Roman apartment block, a wealthy Roman house, a church and a Roman street. All were built around and on top of each other over a period of several centuries.

The house belonged to two martyrs in the fourth century AD: John and Paul, who were officers in the court of Constantine the Great, but who were killed under the rule of Julian the Apostate.

The houses have been beautifully restored -- there are remarkable Roman-era frescoes in many of the rooms -- and were reopened to the public in 2002. Guided tours are available in English, French, German and Spanish.

Case Romane al Celio; +39 06 7045 4544; for booking, contact the Spazio Libero company: Clivo di Scauro (on the Caelian Hill, near the Colosseum)

The art is inside. And out.Villa Farnesina

On the banks of the Tiber, this quiet Renaissance villa is home to some of the most splendid frescoes by Raffaello.

Built for the banker Agostino Chigi in the early 16th century, the grand internal galleries and rooms were painted by Raffaello and several other Renaissance masters, including Baldassare Peruzzi and Il Sodoma, between 1508 and 1519.

Raffaello's celebrated representation of Cupid and Psyche on the ground floor was done in 1517 for the wedding of Chigi to Francesca Ordeaschi.

Also on Via della Lungara is the International House for Women (Casa Internazionale delle Donne, Via della Lungara 19; +39 06 6840 1720), which has a women-only café and restaurant called Luna e l'altra (Via San Francesco Di Sales 1/A; +39 6 6889 2465; closed Sunday).

Villa Farnesina, Via della Lungara, 230; +39 06 6802 7268; closed Sunday; admission €5 ($6.75)

One church to visit if you don't have time to the other 900. Basilica of San Clemente

If you have time to visit just one church during your trip to Rome (there are more than 900 to choose from), then San Clemente should be it.

It's a few blocks from the Colosseum and makes other churches look like ornate cupcakes.

San Clemente is more akin to a gargantuan club sandwich, with layer upon layer of history spanning over 2,000 years.

At street level you can let your jaw drop at the mosaics of the Norman-era basilica.

Admission to the crypt leads into what remains of a 4th-century basilica (the Normans built on top of it), but go down another level and, in the foundations of the 13th-century and the 4th-century structures, there is a Mithraic (pagan) temple.

There are also the remains of a Roman-era house and a Roman street, where the gush of water from a stream can still be heard.

Basilica of San Clemente, Via Di San Giovanni in Laterano; +39 06 774 0021

The place to go for a kosher lunch. The Jewish Quarter

This historic quarter is centered on Via del Portico d'Ottavia, the main street that runs from the Roman Theatre of Marcellus (Teatro Marcello) to Via Arenula. It's a short walk from Piazza Venezia, Campo de' Fiori and the island Tiberina.

A pleasant morning can be spent walking around here before hitting one of the many restaurants for a kosher lunch.

Giggetto (+39 06 6861 105; Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21/A) is a well known place to try a Jewish artichoke (carciofo alla giudia), in season from January to April. There are also several small cafés selling bagels and other snacks.

Nearby is the Great Synagogue of Rome, built in 1904. With its art deco façade and distinctive square dome, it's also home to the Museo Ebraico di Roma (Jewish Museum of Rome), where you can arrange guided tours of the Jewish quarter in English.

Closed Saturdays, Jewish holidays, January 1 and August 15; info@museoebraico.roma.it; +39 06 6840 0661

Other places of interest in the area include the wonderful turtle fountain in Piazza Mattei. Bartaruga, in the same piazza, is a great place for an aperitivo. Around the corner, Acqua Madre is a spa where you can steam away the city grime (Acqua Madre, Via di S Ambrogio 17; +39 06 686 4272).

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CNNGo Down South, New Zealand: Tiny penguins, pristine beaches

hiufu — Tue, 11 Feb 2014 22:00:00 +0000

This month's CNNGo TV adventure explores the gourmet scene, wildlife and breathtaking natural wonders on NZ's South Island

The pristine beauty of New Zealand
Training along crystal clear lakes
Discover hidden seaside gems

It's home to both the northern royal albatross and the world's tiniest penguins.

It produces some of the world's great outdoor experiences.

And CNNGo is heading there this month.

"There" means south to explore New Zealand's Otago Region.

Though Otago is more known as a winter destination, CNNGo's guests -- from a mountain biker to a fashion designer -- explain why summer in Otago is fast becoming popular with visitors.

Ride up, bike down.

Skyline Gondola and Queenstown Bike Park

Visitors can enjoy views of Queenstown while riding the Skyline Gondola to Bob’s Peak.

There, they can then choose one of 13 mountain bike trails for an adrenaline-fueled trip back down.

Skyline Queenstown, Brecon Street, Queenstown; +64 3 441 0101; Skyline Gondola, NZD$27 ($22)/Bike lift from NZD60 ($50)

Kiwi saloon.

Arrowtown

A former gold mining settlement, Arrowtown has a lot of charm on its main street.

You can stop into The Fork and Tap for locally foraged cuisine.

In summer, a bag of cherries and a picnic by the river is as local as it gets.

Arrowtown, Otago, Queenstown

Meadows, mountains ... more please.

Lake Wanaka Outlet Track

You don’t have to be a professional triathlete to enjoy the views at Lake Wanaka.

Runners and bikers can explore the area on a three-kilometer track along the Clutha River between the Lake Wanaka outlet and Hikuwai Reserve in Albert Town.

The path is baby stroller friendly.

Lake Wanaka Outlet Track, between Outlet Motor Camp, Lake Wanaka outlet and Hikuwai Reserve, Albert Town

All who seek are not lost.

Mou Waho Island

Natural history is the lure on this tiny, untouched island in the middle of Lake Wanaka.

Chris Riley of Eco Wanaka tours has years of experience spotting rare creatures, including the curious buff wekas, a chicken-sized bird classified as a vulnerable species.

Eco Wanaka offers a 90-minute Lake Wanaka Cruise (NZD195/$160) and eight-hour Island Nature Walk (NZD390/$320); +64 3 443 2869

Seagulls: the albatross's "Mini-me."

Royal Albatross Center

This is the place to see the northern royal albatross and its three-meter wingspan in action.

It's best to go on a windy day -- these big birds can’t take off without a good gust.

It’s worth staying until the sun goes down to see the blue penguin (the world's smallest) return to shore after a day fishing in the ocean.

Up to a hundred of these tiny penguins can be seen waddling on the shore daily.

Royal Albatross Centre, 1260 Harington Point Road, Queenstown; +64 3 478 0499; Albatross Classic tour costs NZD39 ($32)

Guest hosts:

Kelly McGarry -- professional mountain biker, known for executing back-flips during the Red Bull rampage.

Duncan Forsyth -- Mount Edward Winery.

Nicky Samuels -- Olympic triathlete and 2013 Xterra World Champion.

Chris Riley -- Eco Wanaka.

Simon Kaan -- artist.

Margi Robertson -- designer, Nom*d.

Kelly Lindsay -- Green Man Brewery.

Soundtrack

"Background Noise" -- The Chills

"Boy Dust" -- Paul Winders And The Goodness

"Bubblewrap" -- Two Cartoons

"C.O" -- Paul Winders And The Goodness

"Dreams" -- Two Cartoons

"Let's Go" -- Onanon

"Paratai Drive" -- The Verlaines

"Scientific Life" -- Two Cartoons

"Take me to the railway by the sea" -- Delgirl

"Tiny Terror"s -- Two Cartoons

courtesy of DunedinMusic.com

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iReport: Your images of Kaohsiung, Taiwan

hiufu — Tue, 04 Feb 2014 22:00:00 +0000

Laid-back, friendly, creative -- iReporters share what makes Taiwan's second biggest city so special

Taiwan’s second biggest city, Kaohsiung has over the years morphed from a tiny trading center into a major hub in the southern part of the island.

Much of Taiwan's manufacturing, political and economic business passes through the region, which is also characterized by its shipbuilding -- Kaohsiung's port is one of the largest in the world.

In tandem with CNNGo Kahohsiung, which aired in January, we asked readers to share their favorite images of Kaohsiung in this iReport assignment.

Some iReporters said they adore Kaohsiung's easygoing vibe.

Others pointed to its cultural diversity.

The gallery above features some of our favorite submissions, submitted by iReporters Lilian Huang, Cheng-En Chang, Joseph T. Rodolico, Aristotle Bulaclac and Muid Latif.

Past episodes of CNNGo, including the visit to Kaohsiung, are available on the official CNNGo page.

Last chance to be first to enjoy Japan’s 2014 cherry blossom season

karlac1 — Mon, 03 Feb 2014 05:19:35 +0000

In Okinawa, the pink beauties are now in full bloom. Here’s where to see them before they’re gone

Cherry blossom season in Japan generally begins in late March.

But you don’t have to wait that long to check out the year's first blossoms.

Travelers eager for an early look at Japan’s national flower -- the cherry blossom (sakura) -- can head for Okinawa, Japan’s southernmost prefecture. Thanks to Okinawa’s warmer temps, the pretty bell-like flowers start appearing on cherry trees from mid-January to mid-February.

Sakura festivals are held all over Okinawa, allowing families to take part in “hanami,” or flower viewing.

Blooming periods vary year to year and the season is short.

More on CNN: World music: It's Okinawa's turn

Though the year's cherry blossom party is already drawing to a close in some parts of the prefecture, there are still places where you can check out sakura in their full, pink glory.

Cherry blossom viewing is a national pastime in Japan. Millions turn out to admire the flowers' brief appearance every year. Among the best is the Naha Sakura Matsuri cherry blossom festival, which runs from February 12-16 in Yogi Park in Naha City. Naha is the capital of Okinawa and the largest city in the prefecture.

Yogi Park is 15 minutes from Naha airport. There are nearly 400 cherry blossom trees along the river, making it a great place for a walk if you can manage to pull your eyes away from your camera.

Also in Naha, the Manko Sakura Matsuri cherry blossom festival will take place from February 8-9 at Manko Park.

For festival and other details, check out Okinawa's official tourism website.

A round-trip flight from Tokyo International Airport to Naha Airport on the main island typically runs anywhere from $800-$1,000 on major airlines All Nippon Airways (ANA) and Japan Airlines (JAL).

Low-cost carriers flying to Okinawa’s main island are: ANA’s Peach Aviation, JAL’s Jetstar Japan and Skymark Airlines.

More on CNN: Okinawan cuisine: The Japanese food you don't know

Why is the season so short?

The problem with planning a trip to see Japan's cherry blossoms is that you can't schedule nature. Adding to their allure, the blooms of the cherry tree don't stick around for long.

Most blossoms are only on show for a week, some even less if the weather is bad. Wind and rain can wreak havoc on the delicate flowers.

The blossoms appear on the trees before the leaves come in, giving the trees their rosy/white hue.

To Japanese, the short blooming period of the sakura signifies that winter has come to an end and spring is on its way. Philosophically speaking, sakura are a metaphor for the fleeting nature of life.

It's a culture the Japanese have long been happy to export abroad.

For instance, since 1935 Washington, D.C. has held its own annual Cherry Blossom Festival, made possible by a gift from Tokyo. Back in 1912, the Japanese capital sent 3,000 sakura trees to the United States capital as a symbol of the two nations' friendship.

That friendship, of course, went temporarily sour and the two nations ended up at war. During World War II, cherry blossoms were associated with the kamikaze pilots who sacrificed themselves for their nation.

By all accounts, cherry blossoms are a bittersweet affair. Especially if you miss them.

More on CNN: Okinawa: Which island is for you?

Originally published February 2013, updated February 2014.

CNN Travel's series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy

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45 Taiwanese foods we can't live without

hiufu — Wed, 29 Jan 2014 04:54:08 +0000

From mountains of flavored shaved ice to chicken cutlets as big as your face, Taiwanese eating always comes with superlatives

Small eats, and a lot of them, are the big thing in Taiwan.

The culinary philosophy here is eat often and eat well.

Sure, there's the internationally accepted three-meals-a-day dining format, but why be so limited when you can make like the Taiwanese and indulge in gourmet snacking at any time of the day?

The Taiwanese capital, Taipei, has around 20 streets dedicated to snacking.

Every time you think you've found the best streetside bao, the most incredible stinky tofu or mind-blowing beef noodle soup, there's always another Taiwanese food shop that surpasses it.

The island's food is a mash-up of the cuisine of the Min Nan, Teochew and Hokkien Chinese communities, along with Japanese cooking.

It's a culinary love-in with diversely delicious offspring.

Arguments about the best food on Taiwan risk ruining relationships and lifelong friendships.

Food: it's serious, it's respected, it's all excellent in Taiwan.

"Where there's a wisp of smoke, there's braised fatty pork with rice."

1. Braised pork rice (滷肉飯)

"Where there's a wisp of smoke from the kitchen chimney, there will be lurou fan [braised pork with rice]," goes the Taiwanese saying.

The popularity of this humble dish cannot be overstated.

"Lurou fan" is almost synonymous with Taiwanese food.

The Taipei city government launched a "braised pork rice is ours" campaign last year after Michelin’s "Green Guide Taiwan" claimed the dish was from Shandong Province in mainland China.

A good bowl of lurou fan comprises finely chopped, not quite minced, pork belly, slow-cooked in aromatic soy sauce with five spices.

There should be an ample amount of fattiness, in which lies the magic.

The meat is spooned over hot rice.

A little sweet, a little salty, braised pork rice is comfort food perfected.

Jin Feng Lu Rou Fan (金峰滷肉飯), 10 Roosevelt Road, Section 1, Jhongjheng District, Taipei City; +886 2 2396 0808

Nothing like a good Taiwanese food debate centering around beef noodles.

2. Beef noodle (牛肉麵)

You know a food is an obsession when it gets its own festival.

Beef noodle soup inspires competitiveness and innovation in chefs. Everyone wants to claim the title of beef noodle king.

From visiting Niu Ba Ba for one of the most expensive bowls of beef noodle soup in the world (TW$10,000, or US$334) to a serendipitous foray into the first makeshift noodle shack you spot, it's almost impossible to have a bad beef noodle experience in Taiwan.

Lin Dong Fang's beef shanks with al dente noodles in herbal soup are a perennial favorite. The streetside eatery’s secret weapon is the dollop of homemade chili-butter added last.

Lin Dong Fang (林東芳), 274 Bade Road, Section 2, Jhongshan District, Taipei City; +886 2 2752 2556; Niu Ba Ba (牛爸爸), No. 16, Alley 27, Lane 216, Section 4 Zhongxiao Donglu, Da'an District, Taipei City; +886 2 2778 3075/ +886 2 8771 5358

The oyster omelet: Taiwan's quintessential snack.

3. Oyster omelet (蚵仔煎)

Here's a snack that really showcases the fat of the land in Taiwan. You've got something from the sea and something from the soil.

The eggs are the perfect foil for the little oysters easily found around the island, while sweet potato starch is added to give the whole thing a gooey chewiness -- a signature Taiwan food texture.

No wonder the soup was voted best snack to represent Taiwan in a poll of 1,000 Taiwanese by Global Views Monthly a few years back.

Lai's Egg Oyster Omelet (賴記雞蛋蚵仔煎), Ningxia Road Night Market; +886 2 2558 6177

Chewy and refreshing: bubble tea.

4. Bubble tea (珍珠奶茶)

Bubble tea represents the "QQ" food texture that Taiwanese love.

The phrase refers to something that is especially chewy, like the tapioca balls forming the "bubbles" in bubble tea.

It's said this unusual drink was invented out of boredom.

Liu Han-Chieh threw some sweetened tapioca pudding into her iced Assam tea on one fateful day in 1988, and a great Taiwanese culinary export was born.

Variations on the theme include taro-flavored tea, jasmine tea and coffee, served cold or hot.

Chun Shui Tang teahouse (春水堂), 48 Yi-shu St., Longjing, Taichung County; +886 4 2652 8288

More on CNNGo: Who invented bubble tea?

Amateur fish eaters should watch out for the bones.

5. Milkfish (虱目魚)

How popular is milkfish in Taiwan?

So popular that it has its own themed museum in Anping and there's a milkfish cultural festival in Kaohsiung.

The bony fish might pose a challenge for amateurs, but it’s loved for its tender meat and economical price tag.

Milkfish is prepared in numerous ways -- in a congee porridge, pan-fried, as fish ball soup or braised.

For home-style preparation, retro Izakaya-style restaurant James Kitchen serves pan-fried milkfish with lime.

A bowl of scallion lard rice is a great complement.

James Kitchen (小隱私廚), 65 Yongkang St., Da’an District, Taipei; +886 2 2342 2275

Thankfully, we no longer have to wait for the slack season to eat this.

6. Slack Season danzai noodles (擔仔麵)

You've gotta love a place called Slack Season, and it should be one of the first pit stops on any culinary trip to Taiwan.

The iconic eatery originated in Tainan about a century ago. A fisherman sold noodles during the slack fishing season and the joint became so successful he quit his original trade altogether.

The signature bowl of Slack Season noodles is served in shrimp soup with bean sprouts, coriander, minced pork and fresh shrimps.

The bowl of comforting flavors is so addictive that a man from Tainan supposedly ate 18 bowls in a row at the restaurant.

Slack Season Tainan Main Store (度小月), 16 Jhongjheng Road, Tainan City; +886 6 223 1744;, see website for details of other locations.

Pan-fried buns, bigger and better in Taiwan.

7. Pan-fried bun (生煎包)

Like the fluffiness of cake and the crunchiness of potato chips? The pan-fried bun gives you the best of both worlds.

The buns are made with spongy white Chinese bread that is pan-fried on the bottom. Break one open to reveal the moist porky filling.

A Shanghainese staple, the Taiwanese version differs in two ways: it's slightly bigger in size and it hits the pan upside-down.

Hsu Ji (許記), Shida Night Market, Taan District, Taipei City; +886 9 3085 9646

Dear Gua Bao, you're the Big Mac of our eye.

8. Gua bao (割包)

It's a hamburger, Taiwan-style.

A steamed bun sandwiches a hearty filling of braised pork belly, pickled Chinese cabbage and powdered peanuts.

The filling is chopped into small pieces and mixed together so there's a bit of everything in every bite. Western hamburgers might benefit from the same treatment.

Take a big mouthful and enjoy the salty, sour and sweet flavors and the greasy pork swimming in your mouth.

Shida Night Market, Shida Road, Neihu District, Taipei

Urban legend says you can play ping-pong with iron eggs.

9. Iron egg (鐵蛋)

It's called "iron egg" because it's so tough. These chewy eggs little eggs dyed black from long-braising in soy sauce are a highly addictive Taiwanese food.

Often made from quails' eggs, the protein balls are cooked for hours in soy sauce then air-dried. The process is repeated over several days until the snacks become tough and acquire the desired amount of chewiness.

Seaside A-Po (海邊阿婆), 151-1, Jhongjheng Road, Tamshui; A-Po (阿婆), 135-1, Jhongjheng Road, Tamshui

Pineapple cake: take it home with you.

10. Pineapple cake (鳳梨酥)

This iconic Taiwanese pastry -- mini-pies filled with candied pineapple -- is one of Taiwan's best food souvenirs.

For one of the best pineapple cake experiences, try SunnyHills, which uses only local pineapples. The result is a darker filling, rougher texture and a sourer taste.

The pies at other shops are filled with a mix of pineapple and chewable bits of winter melon. They have a fruity sweetness and a golden casing of crumbly, buttery pastry.

Stores that replace pineapple completely with winter melon to cut costs are committing a big no-no.

SunnyHills (微熱山丘), 1/F, No. 1, Alley 4, Lane 36, Section 5, Minsheng East Riad, Songshan District, Taipei City; +886 49 229 2767

You can add soup to the scraps and slurp it up.

11. Tian bu la (甜不辣)

Tian bu la refers to fish paste that's been molded into various shapes and sizes, deep-fried, then boiled in a broth. Before eating, the pieces of solid fish paste are taken from the broth and smothered in brown sauce.

Doesn't sound like much, but tian bu la delivers plenty of sweet flavors and chewy textures, making it a beloved Taiwanese food.

The food is basically a Taiwanese take on Japanese oden, with more sugariness, tougher fish cakes and a signature sauce.

When you finish the bits of fish cake, there's more to come. Get some soup from the vendor and add it to the remaining sauce in the bowl.

Mix and drink the resulting flavor bomb.

Simon Tian Bu La (賽門甜不辣), 95 Xining South Road, Wanhua District, Taipei City; +886 2 2331 2481

Ba wan: dumplings for giants.

12. Ba wan (肉圓)

Ba wan is a Taiwanese mega-dumpling.

Made with a dough of rice flour, corn starch and sweet potato starch, it looks almost translucent after cooking.

Pork, veggies and sometimes eggs are stuffed inside and gravy poured on top.

It's believed ba wan was invented during times of scarcity. The simple pork dumpling became a luxurious snack enjoyed only during the Lunar New Year festival.

Tonghua Bawan (通化肉圓), No. 7, Alley 39, Tonghua Street, Da'an District, Taipei City; +886 2 2707 8562

Great Taiwanese street food: boneless and bite-sized.

13. Fried chicken (鹽酥雞)

Taiwan deserves a special place in the fried chicken hall of fame. Not only has it made the giant fried chicken cutlet (No. 35 on this list) a cult classic, but its popcorn chicken is dangerously addictive.

The chicken is chopped into bite-sized pieces, marinated, dipped in batter and deep-fried. A generous sprinkling of salt and pepper complete the morish morsels.

It's a ubiquitous snack on the city streets.

Taiwan's First Popcorn Chicken Store(台灣第一家鹽酥雞創始總店), No. 530-1, Bei'an Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei City

Taiwan's food porn queen.

14. Flaky scallion pancake (蔥抓餅)

There are few things more appetizing than the sight of a flaky scallion pancake being slowly torn apart.

Add cheese and egg fillings to maximize the visuals.

Devour this night-market staple in a few bites to ensure it stays steaming hot and chewy.

Shida Night Market, Shida Road, Neihu District, Taipei

Oyster vermicelli: taste of the sea.

15. Oyster vermicelli (蚵仔麵線)

A bowl of great oyster vermicelli should have a thick, flavorful soup base while the thin rice noodles and oysters retain their distinct texture.

Some people add chopped intestines for a funky dimension to the soup.

It's a gooey, slurpable dish with an intense briny taste.

Ay-Chung (阿宗), 8-1 Emei St., Wanhua District, Taipei City; +886 2 2620 9989

You need two hands to eat this Taiwanese food -- one to hold your nose.

16. Stinky tofu (臭豆腐)

This could be the world's premier love-it-or-hate-it snack and Taiwan does it just right.

The "fragrant" cube of bean curd is deep-fried and draped with sweet and spicy sauce. It you hold your nose, it looks and tastes just like a plain ol' piece of fried tofu, with a crisp casing and soft center like pudding.

But what's the fun in eating that? Inhale deeply and relish the stench, the smellier, the better.

Raohe night market, north end of Kee Lung Road, Taipei

17. It’s golden. It’s in the shape of Taiwan. What’s not to like about sweet potatoes?

17. Sweet potato (地瓜)

Leaving taste, smell and nutritional value aside, the sweet potato stands out for a one particular reason among Taiwanese food -- it's shaped a bit like the island.

Taiwan-grown sweet potatoes are added to soup with ginger, roasted by street vendors in ovens converted from oil-drums, ground to a flour and added to other dishes to give texture, or fried into sweet potato chips.

As long as the beloved root vegetable is in it, Taiwanese love it.

Sweet potato congee at Shin Yeh (欣葉), 85/F, Taipei 101, 7 Xinyi Road, Section 5, Xinyi District, Taipei City; +886 2 8101 0185, see other locations at www.shinyeh.com.tw

Also on CNNGo: Be a Taipei Sweet Potato Mama for a day

Taiwan's summer blockbuster is the shaved ice mountain.

18. Shaved ice mountain (刨冰山)

One good thing about the hot, humid and stormy Taiwan summers is the excuse to eat shaved ice mountain.

A pile of shaved ice is heaped with fresh fruit and flavorings, such as mango pieces, juice and sweet condensed milk. The result is super-appealing just by looks alone.

A more traditional take uses freshly made mini rice balls.

Feast on mango shaved ice at Yong Kang 15 (永康15), 15 Yong-kang St., Taipei City; +886 2 2321 3367; For classics go to Tai Yi Milk King (臺一牛奶大王), 82 Xin Sheng South Road, Section 3; +886 2 2363 4341

So good that we ate half of it before remembering to take a photo.

19. Pepper cakes (胡椒餅)

A must-try at Rao He night market, pepper cakes are crispy pastry pockets filled with juicy pork that's infused with the aromatic bite of black pepper.

Baked on the wall of a clay oven, the pies are a delicious ode to the pepper plant.

Eat more than one, or you'll only you have to wait again in the long queue for more.

Raohe night market, north end of Kee Lung Road, Taipei

Din Tai Fung: gasps are heard with each squirt of soup.

20. Dumplings at Din Tai Fung Dumpling House (鼎泰豐小籠包)

Xiaolongbao may be a Shanghainese delicacy, but some argue the Taiwanese perfected it.

Taiwanese restaurant Din Tai Fung does its Shanghai comrades proud with its succulent pork-soup dumplings.

Din Tai Fung’s bite-sized xiaolongbao have a consistently high quality. Their paper-thin wrappings hold rich hot broth and tender pork meatballs.

Gasps can be heard intermittently at Din Tai Fung as diners brave the scalding hot soup that squirts out upon biting the dumpling.

Din Tai Fung Dumpling House (鼎泰豐), 192 Xinyi Road, Section 2, Taipei City; +886 2 2321 8929

Fishballs. Round things are just fun to eat.

21. Fish ball soup (魚丸湯)

What's better than fresh seafood? Balls of fresh seafood, of course.

Look for handmade fish balls in Taiwan -- they tend to have more air in the ball, thus allowing more broth to be soaked up.

They also have a bouncier chew.

Jiaxing Fish Ball (佳興魚丸), No. 21, Lane 210, Section 2, Yanping North Road, Datong District, Taipei City; +886 2 2553 6470

Medicinal herbs: a healthy excuse to feast on ribs.

22. Ribs stewed in medicinal herbs (藥燉排骨)

This is the Taiwanese version of bak kut the, the Chinese meat soup that's also popular in Singapore and Malaysia.

In Taiwan, the soup is slow-cooked in Chinese medicine, extracting the essence from pork bones and more than 14 nutritious herbs, roots and dried fruits.

It's yummy and good for you, too, especially for keeping warm in winter.

There isn't much meat on the lean bones, but the point of the dish is the soup.

Don’t be shy to pick the bones up and suck the juice off.

You might even be considered strange if you don't.

Nanya Night Market, Nanya East Road, Taipei City

The whole goose and nothing but the goose on Taiwan's best tables.

23. Goose (鵝肉)

Geese, bred on Taiwan farms, are never wasted. From the skin to the blood, they're made into delicious dishes.

Salted and smoked geese in Hou Yi are revelatory. Every bite of the juicy goose meat with slightly smoked skin tastes like a pure celebration of poultry.

Or you could try one of Bistro Le Pont's bowls of steamed rice topped with goose, chili oil and x.o. sauce. The rice grains rice are an ideal vehicle for goose fat and flavor.

Ya rou zhen (鴨肉珍), 231-2 Sinyue St., Yancheng District, Kaohsiung, +886 7 531 4630; Bistro Le Pont (樂朋小館), 176 Chaozhou St., Taipei City; +886 2 2396 5677

Painting the wok with rice slurry to make ding bian cuo.

24. Ding bian cuo (鐤邊趖)

Ding bian cuo is a bowl of slippery rice-flour pasta.

Rice flour batter is poured along the side of a huge heated wok, sliding and spreading along the hot metal and forming slices of rice flour noodle.

When dried, the sheets are cut into smaller pieces that become very thin and very chewy noodles when cooked as ding bian cuo.

Wu Jia ding bian cuo is a century-old family business. Its ding bian cuo is served with handmade pork cakes, shrimp cakes, cabbage, daylily and bamboo shoots.

Wu Jia ding bian cuo (百年吳家鼎邊趖), Keelung Temple Street Night Market, Taipei City

Taiwanese hot dogs are made with sticky rice buns and cured sausages.

25. Taiwanese sausage with sticky rice (大腸包小腸)

Taiwanese pork sausage alone is a superstar at night markets, but when served as a snack translated as "little sausage inside big sausage" it's possibly unbeatable.

It's like a hot dog, but instead of a bun, sticky rice is stuffed inside sausage casing to make an oversized rice sausage.

That's then slit open to stuff in a pork sausage.

So it's a little sausage inside a big one. Get it?

Fengjia Night Market, Taichung County

Mobile mochi: get your chewy fix any time of the day.

26. Mochi (麻糬)

These glutinous rice balls are soft as marshmallows and filled with sweet or salty things.

The most traditional mochi are filled with red bean paste and rolled in peanut powder.

But in recent years, strawberry jam, sesame paste, green tea jam and peanut paste have become popular fillings.

You can learn how to make mochi at the Royal Taiwan Mochi Museum (around US$5 per person).

Royal Taiwan Mochi Museum(台灣麻糬主題館), No. 3, Tzu Qiang 3rd Road, Nantou County; +886 49 225 7644, see the class schedule at www.taiwanmochi.com.tw (in Chinese only)

Lantern Lu Wei doesn't worry about your schedule, only good flavor.

27. Lantern soy sauce braised food (燈籠滷味)

No matter what you choose from the Lantern Lu Wei food stall, it'll take on the taste of the signature five-spice soy sauce.

It's a little sweet, not too salty and very aromatic with cloves, star anise, cinnamon and other spices.

Pick your preferred ingredients and the chef will cook it in the pot of special sauce. It's a perfect light meal before a big night out.

You should expect to wait in line as the chef never rushes -- he takes his time to allow the the food to absorb the sauce.

Lantern Lu Wei (燈籠滷味), Shida Night Market, Shida Road, Neihu District, Taipei

28. Sun cakes (太陽餅)

Originating in Taichung, the suncake is just a flakey pastry filled with maltose.

And yet this sweet nothing has come to represent Taichung City and is a souvenir sought out by visitors.

Countless sun cake shops flourish in Taichung, all claiming to be the original store.

But maybe it's time for them to shine. The genuine original sun cake store, Tai Yang Bakery, closed down when the 68-year-old boss decided to retire.

Along Tze Yo Street, Zhongzheng District, Taichung County

Sticky rice pudding; turnip sauce obligatory.

29. Tube rice pudding (筒仔米糕)

Sticky rice and Chinese mushrooms are fried with seasoning and stuffed into a bamboo tube together with pork and egg. The tube of rice is steamed again to further soften the texture until it becomes a cylindrical pudding.

Da Qiao Tou started making its rice pudding in a stall under a bridge more than four decades ago.

The business has since expanded but the rice pudding stays the same.

You should be sure to add the homemade turnip-laced sweet spicy sauce to the tasty.

Da Qiao Tou (大橋頭老牌筒仔米糕), 41 Yanping North Road, Section 3, Datong District, Taipei City; +886 2 2594 4685

Nothing like fried bread wrapped with roast bread to fuel a morning.

30. Taiwanese breakfast (燒餅夾油條)

Three elements to start a day right with Taiwanese food include sesame flat bread, deep-fried Chinese donut and soymilk.

Blogger Joan H from A Hungry Girl’s Guide to Taipei says her favorite breakfast is from Fu Hang.

“I love the thick sesame flat bread at Fu Hang because it has a slight sweetness, a thin crispy layer and soft center from coming straight out of the hot metal barrel.

"Many sesame flat breads are dry and flaky but Fu Hang's shows why there's often a half-hour wait there on the weekends.”

Fu Hang Dou Jiang (阜杭豆漿), 2/F Hua Shan Market, 108 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 1, Taipei City; +886 2 2392 2175

Mm. Congealed pig's blood on a stick.

31. Pig’s blood rice pudding (豬血米糕)

This mix of pig's blood and sticky rice is stuck on the end of a stick like a lollipop. For the final Taiwanese touch, the pudding is coated in a sweet peanut powder.

Basketball star Jeremy Lin Shu-How named pig’s blood rice cake as one of his favorite snacks on his recent visit to Taiwan.

If it's good enough for Lin, it's good enough for us.

Xiao Li (小李), No. 1-3, Lane 136, Section 4, Roosevelt Road, Taipei City; +886 2 2368 3417

Signature Taiwanese food: three-cup chicken.

32. Three-cup chicken (三杯雞)

Three-cup chicken is cooked in a cup of rice wine, a cup of oil and a cup of soy sauce. To this Taiwanese culinary triumvirate is added fresh basil, chilies and garlic for an irresistible combination.

Some kitchens have a different definition of three-cup chicken, involving a cup of wine, a cup of sesame oil and a cup of sugar.

Shin Yeh (欣葉), 85/F, Taipei 101, 7 Xinyi Road, Section 5, Xinyi District, Taipei City; +886 2 8101 0185

Agei, an edible purse full of goodness.

33. Tamsui Agei (阿給)

Agei comes from the Japanese "aburaage," which are deep-fried tofu pockets.

Taiwanese agei are stuffed with mung bean noodles and sealed off with fish paste. A typical, sweet-spicy sauce completes the snack.

The tofu soaks up the soup it's cooked in, so each bite bursts with broth.

Paired with a soy milk, the agei makes a great savory breakfast.

Zhenli Street, Tamshui

Ban tiao: rustic taste, rabid following.

34. Ban tiao (粄條)

Ban tiao (flat rice noodles) has such a rabid following that many Taiwanese will drive long distances in search of the most authentic bowl.

The thick, flat, slippery noodles made from glutinous rice are part of the Hakka culinary tradition and best sampled in Kaohsiung’s Meinong district.

Stir-fried ban tiao with pork has a rustic taste and texture.

Many find the dish more comforting when served in hot soup.

Meixing Street, Meinong district, Kaohsiung

Food that's almost as big as your face.

35. Hot-star large fried chicken (豪大大雞排)

According to a Taipei Times’ report of 2011, Taiwanese devour more than 250,000 fried chicken cutlets a day.

Piled atop each other, that would make a chicken cutlet tower 10 times as tall as Taipei 101, the island’s tallest skyscraper at 508 meters.

Go to Hot-star for the original oversized chicken cutlet.

The enormous slice of meat, as big as your face, is very moist with a crispy crust. A generous coating of five-spice powder and pepper gives it a kick.

Starting as a small counter at Shilin night market, Hot-star is now a Taiwanese food franchise present in Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore.

Hot-star Large Fried Chicken (豪大大雞扒), Shilin Night Market, Jīhé Rd, Shilin District, Taipei City

From ocean to grill.

36. Anything with cuttlefish (花枝)

Taiwan gets a lot of cuttlefish, and grill stations spiked with cuttlefish skewers can be found everywhere in the southern tip of the island.

Although a thick cuttlefish soup with herbs and veggies is a typical Taiwanese winter-warmer, one of the best ways to enjoy the mollusks is fresh out of seawater, straight on to the charcoal grill.

A smoky aroma, dark grill marks, glistening furled fish edges and dustings of salt and pepper make up the scene.

Fengjia Night Market, Taichung County

37. Aiyu jelly (愛玉冰)

Very wobbly and hardly tasting of anything, aiyu jelly takes on the flavor of whatever it's eaten with.

Add it to lemonade and shaved ice for a refreshing summer drink. The jelly gives the liquid a fun gloopy texture.

Shida Night Market, Shida Road, Neihu District, Taipei City

Pidan tofu: love at second bite

38. Pidan tofu (皮蛋豆腐)

Black, white and seemingly bland pidan tofu isn’t a likely candidate for “love at first bite” fame.

But after a few tries it becomes a minor addiction for many eaters.

Pidan, or century egg, is a duck egg preserved in clay with seasonings. With time, the egg white turns into a translucent black jelly and the yolk develops a unique flavor.

It’s topped with sesame oil, vinegar, soy sauce, coriander, chopped spring onion and, sometimes, pork floss.

Mash it up and it’s ready to eat.

Widely available at local restaurants

39. Steamed spring roll (潤餅)

To describe it as the non-deep-fried version of a spring roll would be unfair, as "run bing" (steamed spring roll) was invented before the spring roll.

Every Taiwanese household has its own recipe for run bing.

During festivals, families gather at the table to have a run bing wrapping party. Each person chooses their own fillings from a buffet and rolls their own run bing.

Besides serving delicious run bing, Shin Yeh at Taipei 101 also offers an incomparable view of the city.

Shin Yeh (欣葉), 85/F, Taipei 101, 7 Xinyi Road, Section 5, Xinyi District, Taipei City; +886 2 8101 0185

Hot pot: gimmicky but good.

40. Spicy hotpot (麻辣火鍋)

Taiwanese are mad for spicy hot pot.

And who wouldn't be? The bubbling pots of broth are filled with all sorts of Chinese herbs and spices to create a rich flavor for all the raw, fresh ingredients that diners will dip into it.

New hot pot places pop up in Taiwan every day, each with a gimmick to attract insatiable hot pot diners.

There's all-you-can-eat hot pot and yakiniku served at the same table; there's bubble tea hotpot for the jaded.

But it's ordinary spicy hot pot with quality ingredients that stands the test of time. While Taiwan's spice-levels don't come close to Chongqing's, they're pretty piquant.

Head to perennial hot pot favorite and celeb-magnet Taihodien for a glam Taiwanese hot pot experience.

Taihodien (太和殿麻辣火鍋) can be found across Taiwan, try bubble tea hotpot at Yue Yin Xuan (玥飲軒), 80 Wenzhou St., Ta'an District, Taipei City

Chicken in tiger’s clothing.

41. Tiger-striped chicken gua bao (虎皮軟燒雞割包)

At many places, tiger-striped chicken gua bao can be thought of as Taiwan’s answer to the Big Mac.

At Old New Restaurant in Kaohsiung, however, the humble dish gets an upscale treatment.

The restaurant uses pumpkin and edible bamboo charcoal powder to create a yellow-and-black striped bun, then fills it with deep-fried and braised chicken fillets in soy sauce and tomato sauce.

The result is a sweet and sour flavor that’s different from typical gua bao.

Old New Restaurant (老新台菜), 227 Jiou Ru 2nd 3077 Road, Sanmin District, Kaohsiung; +886 7 313 3077

Beware the chicken-wrapped rice craze.

42. Chicken wing rice roll (雞翅包飯)

The chicken wing rice roll makes the impossible possible -- eating chicken fried rice in a night market with one hand.

A boneless chicken wing is stuffed with fried rice and marinated in a heavenly combination of sesame oil and secret sauce.

It’s so good it started a chicken wrapped rice craze in Kaohsiung’s Ruifeng night market, with various fillings, such as kimchi fried rice and curry rice.

Ruifeng Night Market, Yucheng Rd., Zuoying District, Kaohsiung

White shirt not recommended when eating this one.

43. Giant pork balls soup (爆汁貢丸)

The best pork balls are made from fresh meat hand-ground and pounded with a mallet until it attains a doughy texture.

The giant pork balls in stock soup from Taipei’s Ningxia Night Market are as big as a baby’s fist.

Their size, as well as the air holes pumped in the meatballs during the pounding, locks in an amazing amount of juice and flavor.

The Chinese name illustrates the experience of eating one vividly -- the literal translation is “bursting-juice giant pork balls.”

Pork balls are sometimes mixed with ingredients such as Chinese mushrooms and cuttlefish to enrich texture and add flavor.

Ningxia Night Market, Ningxia Road, Taipei

Lychee-rose bread: the Rafael Nadal of baked goods.

44. Wu Pao Chun Bakery Breads (吳寶春麵包)

“Bread? In Taiwan? Seriously?” we hear you thinking -- but this isn’t just any bread we’re talking about.

It’s from Wu Pao-chun, a world baking champion with many award-winning loaves to its name.

The bread that won the international baking competition Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in 2010 is the bakery's lychee-rose bread.

It’s made with mullet wine, lychee and rose petals.

Wu Pao-chun also won the Louis Lesaffre Cup in 2007 and a silver medal at the 2008 Bakery World Cup.

Another signature of the store is wine-longan bread with smoked longans, French wine and California walnuts.

Wu Pao Chun Bakery Kaohsiung (吳寶春麥方店)，19, Siwei 3rd Lingya District, Kaohsiung City; +886 7 335 9593

Wu Pao Chun Bakery Taipei (吳寶春麥方店), 88 Yanchang Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City; +886 2 6636 5888

45. Love the convenience, hate the side dishes.

45. Biandang (便當)

A lot of Taiwanese have a love-hate relationship with Taiwanese biandang (bento), the takeaway lunchbox that packs rice with a main dish (usually a type of meat) and small, often unappealing side dishes such as fried and preserved vegetables.

It's a convenient, quick, cheap (less than $3) and generally decent way to eat.

Biandang isn't one of the most delicious foods in Taiwan, but it’s a staple for countless working parents and busy urbanites.

Bento with chicken cutlet is a good biandang choice.

Found at convenience stores and major high-speed rail stations around Taiwan.

Originally published June 2012. Updated January 28, 2014.

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World music: It's Okinawa's turn

karlac1 — Sun, 26 Jan 2014 22:00:00 +0000

Unique melodies float from every doorway along Naha's Kokusai-dori, Okinawa's main entertainment drag

There’s something about islands and music.

Jamaica and Cuba spring to mind.

Not as globally recognized, but every bit as interesting, is subtropical Okinawa, Japan’s southernmost littoral.

You can find music on the smallest of islets in the Okinawan chain, but Naha, the prefectural capital, remains the epicenter of musical activity.

At times, it feels as if melodies are escaping from every doorway along Kokusai-dori, Naha’s main tourist and entertainment strip.

Considered by many the greatest living female Okinawan signer, Misako Oshiro performs at her club, Shima Umui.

Clubs here cater to tourists looking for a night of drinking and carousing, but they also provide a useful initiation into shima-uta, the term for Okinawan music and its modern derivatives.

With its emphasis on half-step intervals and variations on pentatonic scales, the rhythms and phrasings in Okinawan music distinguish it from the folk music of mainland Japan.

More on CNN: Okinawa: Which island is for you?

Embodying hints and tints of its Asian provenance, the music is played at festivals, to celebrate births and weddings, petition the gods for good harvests and even for social commentary and political protest.

An ever-evolving genre, successful collaborations between Okinawan performers and well known foreign musicians include those with pianist Geoffrey Keezer and guitar legend Ry Cooder.

Few places uphold local musical traditions like Okinawa, where tribute is paid to both past masters and new styles.

For an evening of authentic traditional music, Shima Umui, a cozy basement club owned by the great Okinawan singer Misako Oshiro, is the place to start.

On a good night, the music and awamori (Okinawan liquor) flow until the early hours of the morning.

More on CNN: Awamori: A guide to Okinawa's tropical drink of choice

Experiencing Okinawa music

The Far Side Music website is one of the best places to shop for Okinawan sounds.

All-female band Nenes performs at Shimauta, a club along Kokusai-dori.John Potter’s book, "The Power of Okinawa: Roots music from the Ryukyus," is a fine introduction to the subject.

Almost every island has a bar or two where live music is performed, but Naha is to Okinawan music what Nashville is to country.

Live performances usually start between 7 and 9 p.m.

Here are some of the best places to catch an Okinawan music concert.

Chakra

This well known club is run by legendary singer-composer Kina Shokichi, who can be seen performing on weekends.

Chakra, Naha-shi, Makishi 1-2-1, Mall Vie Bldg. 5/F; +81 098 869 0283

Shimauta

This one is overseen by Sadao China, an influential musician and producer who created the all-female group Nenes, who perform regularly here.

Shimauta, Naha-shi, Makishi 1-2-31, 3/F Okinawaya Honsha Bldg; +81 098 863 6040

Shima Umui

This small club is run by Okinawan signer Misako Oshiro.

Shima Umui, Naha-shi, Higashimachi 4-6; +81 098 866 0234

Lyra

A good venue to see young performers and new acts. There are three evening sessions; you can stay for as many as you like.

Lyra, Naha-shi, Makishi, 2-1-1-BF1; +81 098 941 5003

Kalahaai

Located in Chatan, a little north of Naha, this is the base for the Rinken Band, one of the best-known Okinawan acts. Other artists perform here.

Kalahaai, Nagagami-gun, Chatan-cho 8-11; +81 098 982 707

Bashofu

Run by seasoned musicians Takashi and Chiyoko Hatoma, a warm welcome awaits visitors who make it to Ishigaki, an island in the southern Yaeyama chain.

Bashofu, Ishigaki-shi, Misaki-cho 12-12; +81 0980 82 7765

More on CNN: Five must visit Okinawa castles

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Niseko's best restaurants: Where to eat in the 'Aspen of the East'

karlac1 — Thu, 23 Jan 2014 22:00:00 +0000

This Japanese resort town has become a world-class winter destination with a fantastic food scene to match

Touted as Japan’s snow capital and famous for its light, powder-dry snow, Niseko is widely regarded as one of the top 10 ski resorts in the world.

But while most ascend its slopes to ski and snowboard, Niseko is not a one trick pony.

Of late, the “Aspen of the East” is swiftly coming into its own as a world-class winter destination, brandishing swish apartments, boutique lodgings and top dining options.

Adding to the dazzle is the recent debut of Asperges Hanazono, where Hiroshi Nakamichi -- chef-patron of Sapporo’s 3 Michelin-starred Moliere -- is set to up the ante on fine dining with his Hokkaido produce-inspired haute French cuisine.

More casual F&B options -- ranging from izakaya, seafood to bistro fare -- abound and the latest to join the fray is Kutchan Bistro Sakaba by Yuichi Kamimura of 1 Michelin-starred French fine diner, Kamimura.

Until these new restaurants prove their mettle, here's a clutch of ‘must-try’ eateries to add to your Niseko dining radar.

Visitors are recommended to reserve well in advance in winter.

On the Rakuichi menu: Hand-cut hot and cold soba. And little else.

Rakuichi Soba

Anthony Bourdain featured this 12-seat eatery by soba master Tatsuru Rai in his TV show, "No Reservations," and it has gained global fame and a cult-like following ever since.

Housed in a wooden lodge in the forested reaches of Annupuri, Rakuichi Soba’s Japanese-worded lunch menu features nothing more than hand-cut hot and cold soba with a choice of tempura vegetables or duck.

Everything is cooked-to-order, so be prepared to wait – the umami-packed offerings are well worth it.

If you prefer a more elaborate meal, there's the 6,000 yen-a-head (US$57) kaiseki dinner. Reservations permitted at dinner only.

431 Niseko, Niseko-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 048-1511; +81 136 58 3170

More on CNN: 7 deluxe ways to enjoy winter

Kamimura

Yuichi Kamimura, who spent five years cutting his teeth at Tetsuya’s, helms the kitchen at his eponymous 40-seat temple of haute gastronomy tucked on the ground floor of Shiki Niseko serviced residences in Hirafu.

While his cuisine is unmistakably French, chef Kamimura sources the majority of his produce -- think wagyu, duck, seafood and cheeses -- from neighboring Hokkaido farms.

The best way to sample his craft is via the 13,000 yen-a-head (US$124) 10-course degustation menu, highlights of which may include Haboro king prawn sashimi with prawn roe and butter sautéed Sempoushi oyster with Spanish chorizo in garlic chive sauce.

Kamimura, First floor, Shiki Niseko, 190-4 Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081; +81 136 21 2289

Ezo’s specialty is pristine Hokkaido seafood.

Ezo Seafoods

Australian native James Gallagher and his Japanese wife, Keiko Takaoka, run this cozy 2-storey seafood eatery in the heart of Hirafu.

Now in its fifth season of operation, Ezo Seafood’s specialty is pristine Hokkaido seafood, sourced mostly from the neighboring islands.

Signatures include freshly shucked Akkeshi oysters, luscious Notsuke scallops (served sashimi style or pan fried with soy and sake) and lip smacking soy-braised rockfish.

While they are all delicious, your meal is not complete without a bowl of Koshihikari rice grown from chef Takaoka’s family farm in Chiba.

Ezo Seafoods, 170-165 Aza Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081; +81 136 22 3019

Bang Bang

Opened since 1985, this yakitori specialist in Hirafu is a local institution -- and remains so despite the flood of yakitori eateries in Niseko.

Besides more than 30 kinds of binchotan charcoal-grilled meats, seafood and vegetables, the menu also features the ubiquitous sashimi, local snacks like pumpkin cake and okara (soy pulp) as well as staples such as grilled onigiri (rice ball).

If you don’t mind making a dent in your credit card, the grilled wagyu is to-die-for.

Located just steps away from Bang Bang is sister restaurant, Bang 2 – a convenient call if getting a seat at Bang Bang proves too difficult.

Bang Bang, 188-24 Yamada Kutchan, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081; +81 136 22 4292

More on CNN: World's best ski runs: 100 to 1

Come for the buffet, stay for the Mount Yotei views.

Prativo

Most Niseko eateries thrive on dinner business but this out-of-the-way restaurant by Milk Kobo, which manufactures Niseko’s most popular yoghurt drink, draws a destination lunch crowd with its value-packed semi-buffet lunch (1,500 yen a head).

For mains, diners can pick from a menu of fish, meat or pastas, or help themselves to all-you-can-eat appetizers and desserts that include vegetables sourced from neighboring districts as well as Milk Kobo’s thick and creamy yoghurt drink.

The transcendental view of Mount Yotei, framed by floor-to-ceiling glass windows, makes a meal here all the more enjoyable.

Prativo, 888-1, Soga, Niseko-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 048-1522; +81 136 55 8852

The Barn

For rustic brasserie fare, The Barn by former Wild Bill’s owners, Brett and Takoya, rises to the occasion with a menu of French classics.

Housed in a lofty barn-like setting with floor-to-ceiling glass window in Hirafu, The Barn's menu features velvety chicken liver pate, hearty braised beef cheeks, fork-tender fillet mignon and sublime crème brulee -- prepared to the exacting standards of chef Kazuhiko Kojima.

The Barn, 170-323 Aza-Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081; +81 136 23 0888

More on CNN: 7 of Europe's most luxurious ski resorts

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Urban glamping at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo

karlac1 — Wed, 22 Jan 2014 22:00:00 +0000

A "Roar and Snore" night includes big views, luxury tents and behind-the-scenes zoo action

Now that’s camping. As long as you don't get stuck next to a snorer.

Dozens of Sydney hotels offer incredible views of the country’s most photographed harbor.

What visitor doesn't need a shot of the famed arched bridge and a certain white opera house?

But there’s only one accommodation for those wanting to wake up to those stellar views while listening to the roar of lions and trumpeting of elephants.

Offering luxurious safari-style tents, buffet dinners and sundowners paired with the city's most expensive view, Taronga Zoo’s Roar and Snore program stretches the definition of camping beyond its canvas-scented limits.

If the view doesn't slay you, the koala cuddles will. The experience begins at 6:15 p.m., kicking off with encounters with Australian animals like kangaroos, koalas and reptiles.

Then come drinks and a buffet dinner, followed by a two-hour night "safari."

Guests wake up at 6 a.m. for more animal visits and two behind-the-scenes tours that show the inner workings of the 98-year-old zoo. (It's not Australia's oldest. Melbourne Zoo has been around since 1862.)

"These tours aren’t always the same, but can include a behind the scenes visit and feed with our giraffes, a behind the scenes tour of our chimpanzee sanctuary, and a private seal show," says Paul Fahy, senior media relations officer for the Taronga Zoo.

Visitors can spend the rest of the day at the zoo during regular opening hours.

More: Sydney hotels: 7 stays for 7 types of travelers

If it's good enough for Brangelina ...

Though Roar and Snore has been around since 2010, it gained attention when Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt took in the experience with their kids in December 2013.

The zoo wouldn't confirm the visit, which received a huge number of mentions on celebrity gossip pages in the United States and Australia.

Roar and Snore tents have electricity and sleep a maximum of four. Roar and Snore costs A$288 ($255) per adult, A$184 per child on weekdays, A$320 and A$205 on weekends and public holidays.

Children must be at least five to take part and must be accompanied by an adult.

Tents fit two-to-four people and come with bedding and towels.

Guests bring their own toiletries. There's a row of washrooms and showers near the tents.

Food and drink includes snacks, buffet dinner, tea/coffee and light breakfast.

Bookings can be made through Australian ticketing site Ticketek.

More on CNN: How to see the best of Sydney in a week

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10 of Madrid’s best tapas bars

sbusch — Tue, 21 Jan 2014 06:00:00 +0000

They all serve drinks and snacks but that's where this anarchic bunch part company

“Bars are a lottery you never win,” wrote Madrid actor and gourmet blogger Juan Echanove.

Clearly he had in mind Madrid’s tapas bars -- so varied and vast in number you’re taking a wild bet if you choose one at random.

Outside the Spanish capital, tapas joints often conform to a fairly predictable, vintage stamp.

Within Madrid, about the only thing they have in common is selling liquor and an assortment of snacks.

From old school establishments to cutting edge places that are all foam and foie gras, this tapas bar guide should shorten the odds for enjoying a quintessentially Spanish eating and drinking experience.

Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are the big nights at most tapas bars -- they usually open around midday and again at 8.30 p.m. Most are closed on Mondays.

Taberna Tempranillo

Grape pick on Cava Baja.Long, winding Cava Baja street is a fixture on Madrid’s tapas trail.

Among the dozens of bars on offer, Tempranillo maintains quality, style and ambiance, much helped by a humongous choice of wines (“tempranillo” refers to Spain’s national red grape) though not always by brusque bar staff.

From a prized stool at the varnished bar you can contemplate the wall-sized rack of Spanish wines while ordering a glass of brooding red Priorat vino and a crunchy toast of bacalao (cod) with tomato sauce.

Taberna Tempranillo, Cava Baja 38; +34 91 364 15 32

Vi Cool

Vi Cool has letters missing but no one seems to mind. The name requires decoding.

“Vi” is the Spanish word for wine, with the end -- "no" -- lopped off.

Cool? That’s up for you to decide.

One of top Catalan chef Sergi Arola’s venues, this bar-restaurant offers some of Madrid’s most inventive gourmet tapas, impeccably served.

Honeyed wood tones, black details and huge monochrome enlargements of the Boqueria market enclose the bar and a small lineup of tables that at lunchtime attract an overload of ladies who lunch.

Come evening it’s thronged with hipsters dropping cash.

Although more a place for raciones (sharing plates) than tapas, the €20 ($27) tapas menu gives a superb six-course taste of high end modern cocina.

Vi Cool, calla Huertas 12; + 34 91 429 4913

MORE: 11 things to know before visiting Spain

Espacio Cultural La Victoria

La Victorian values.With the creeping commercialization of the Sol and Latina area, more inspired bohemians are heading a few blocks south to edgy Lavapies.

Here 18 months ago La Victoria was converted from a derelict store into a creative crossroads and lively bar.

Theatricality rules in the distressed baroque setting where you can prop up the bar, sink into a squishy leather sofa or head through the red velvet curtains to the bijou theater downstairs.

Tapas range from a typical Spanish tortilla to Mexican-style quesadillas.

It even serves sustaining breakfasts for hungry thesps after a long night out.

Espacio Cultural La Victoria, calla Santa Isabel 40; + 34 91 528 6457

Mercado de San Anton

Freshness rules at Sabores del Mar, within the mercado.Spain’s fashion for food halls kicked off with the Mercado San Miguel, but success breeds complacency -- Chueca’s smaller Mercado de San Anton dishes up better food and atmosphere.

The shared eating and drinking space there means you can pick up a plate of oysters or tuna tartare with wasabi from the cheerfully manned seafood counter and wash them down with a glass of cava or Galician albariño, before grazing further at the next bar.

Shared tables and stools overlook a large atrium, so even when it’s heaving at the weekend, it still feels airy.

Sabores del Mar stands out among the bars for ultra-fresh seafood tapas.

Mercado de San Anton (Spanish only), calle Augusto Figueroa; + 34 91 330 0287

READ: Costa Brava goes back to its roots

La Musa Latina

Left field leanings: La Musa.Ping pong in the vaulted cellar bar is part of the draw at this chilled tapas bar-restaurant on one of Madrid’s prettiest old squares.

Style veers from recycled wood tables to industrial chic, making an arty fusion.

The seductive location means in summer you can flop at a table under the trees to work your way through some pretty left-field tapas, including octopus, wild boar, tempura prawns and huitlacoche, a Mexican fungus.

La Musa Latina (Spanish only), Costanilla de San Andres 12; +34 91 354 02 55

Bodega de la Ardosa

Grandfather among tapas bars.More than 110 years old, this legendary bar is the kind of place you’d like to have next door.

It’s impossible not to like the cozy, well-worn interior of old photos, barrels, tapas boards and towering shelves of wine and liquor bottles – quintessential vintage Madrid.

On top of that, the tapas are varied and good, from potato tortilla to a creamy salmorejo (chilled tomato soup) and croquetas of blue cheese, salt cod or cured beef.

Known for its Czech pilsen, vermouth and Guinness on tap, Ardosa also pours a decent glass of sherry, though wines are limited and young.

In summer regulars spill on to the pavement until late at night.

Bodega de La Ardosa (Spanish only), calle Colon 13; +34 915 21 49 79

MORE: 11 places to go in 2014

Albora

Temple to tapas.Chic is hardly the word for this polished, ultra-refined tapas bar-restaurant in Salamanca, Madrid’s smart commercial district.

Step inside and you enter a temple to tapas beneath a soaring glass ceiling where lighting switches from day blue to night red and jazzy music soothes.

There are spaces for intimate dining, but the fun is at the bar or one of the high tables in the company of men in blazers and women in rapier stilettoes.

Here you can watch a leg of Joselito ham being expertly carved or delicious little cold tapas assembled.

Ingredients are top notch, with wines to match.

Albora, calle Jorge Juan 33, Salamanca; + 34 91 781 6197

Arzabal

Plated its way through the recession.Opening opposite Retiro Park in 2009, a year into the recession, Arzabal has nonetheless been successful enough to open a sister establishment around the corner.

This is where you come to dent your banker’s bonus by ordering a tin of Royal Baikal caviar with bottle of Veuve Cliquot for $314 all in, or more judiciously opting for a plate of garlicky prawns for $25 with a bottle of Montrachet white wine ($64).

The action concentrates in the jostling bar section at the front, which sometimes feels like a private party.

For designer comfort, you can head for the serene back area.

Arzabal (Spanish only), Avenida Menéndez Pelayo 13, Salamanca; + 34 91 409 5661

READ: Spanish 'ghost' airport on the block

Antigua Casa Angel Sierra

Angel on the corner.For nearly a century this decorative, dusty old bar has dominated the once sleazy, now boho-chic barrio of Chueca.

In 1995, it was featured in one of Pedro Almodovar’s movies, “La Flor de mi Secreto” (“The Flower of My Secret”), gaining a ceiling painting as legacy.

Regulars cover the gamut of ages, eccentricities and nationalities, though much depends on timing.

Around noon, you’ll rub shoulders with old boys from the neighborhood sloping in for a shot of draft vermouth ($2) and a free dish of olives.

Late in the evening it fills up with a youthful, flamboyant crowd that spills outside in summer.

Tapas are cheap and cheerful -- hardly refined.

Antigua Casa Angel Sierra, calle Gravina 11; + 34 91 531 0126

Estado Puro

Foam and foie gras, but not without a sense of humor.Cutting edge design and revolutionary tapas combine at this modern hotel bar.

With its own entrance, conveniently opposite the Prado, Estado Puro makes a great venue for a different type of art form -- gastronomic.

The brainchild of two avant garde chefs, Paco Roncero and Alfonso Castellanos, it produces Ferran Adria-style foams and manipulated classics like an ambrosial 21st-century Spanish tortilla, served in a glass, vertical ali-oli potatoes, or a gingerbread “sandwich” of foie gras.

The nightclub-like interior features black surfaces, high stools and a vaulted ceiling of illuminated mantilla combs.

Estado Puro (Spanish only), NH Hotel Paseo del Prado, Plaza de Canovas del Castillo 4; + 34 91 330 2400

MORE: 10 best places to spend Christmas 2013

Fiona Dunlop is the author of “New Tapas” and “Real Tapas” (Octopus Publishing).

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London’s 8 oddest museum exhibits

sbusch — Wed, 15 Jan 2014 10:00:00 +0000

Bored of Buckingham Palace? May we introduce you to an overstuffed walrus or Churchill’s chamber pot?

Another day, another gallery of supposedly edifying objects huddled under glass -- museum fatigue can strike even the most enthusiastic traveler.

Where to cure such an affliction?

Well, London has not only some of the best museums in the world but also some of the oddest museum attractions.

The only risk in tracking down these bizarre and often fascinating exhibits is that you might replace museum fatigue with another potential syndrome -- “museum shock.”

1. Cricket casualty: Bowled-out sparrow

With its byzantine rules and glacial pace of play, cricket seems antiquated enough without requiring a museum to highlight its long and distinguished past.

It isn’t all fair play, polite applause and cucumber sandwiches, though.

The museum attached to London’s hallowed Lord’s cricket ground exposes the game’s violent side with an exhibit of a stuffed sparrow.

The poor bird was killed in mid-flight by a cricket ball bowled by the Pakistani cricketer Jahangir Khan during a match at Lord’s in 1936.

Its taxidermied corpse now sits atop the projectile that killed it.

Come for the sparrow, stay for … the Ashes -- a tiny urn that's one of cricket’s most coveted prizes.

MCC Museum, Lord’s Cricket Ground, St. John’s Wood Road; +44 207 616 8658

2. Mermen

Half-man, half-fish, the male equivalent of a mermaid crops up in no fewer than two London museums.

The first, a menacing-looking thing in the eccentric Horniman collection, has been exposed as a creation of wood, fish and bone rather than -- surprise, surprise -- an actual merman.

You are the walrus ... not as strange as the "merman" but still pretty odd.The second, a wizened beast of equally fearsome appearance on display in the prestigious British Museum, was said to have been caught in the seas off Japan in the 18th century.

Closer examination revealed it to be half a monkey sewn on to half a fish -- but it’s still nasty enough to give you sleepless nights.

Come for the mermen, stay for … the Horniman’s legendary overstuffed walrus, wrought by someone more than 100 years ago who'd probably never seen a living specimen.

Horniman Museum and Gardens, 100 London Road; +44 208 699 1872

3. Jeremy Bentham’s skeleton

Bentham was a child prodigy who grew up to become a giant of British political philosophy and social reform at the turn of the 19th century.

He demanded in his will that his body be dissected and preserved as an “auto-icon.”

And so it was -- although he was given a waxy new head after his real one was rendered terrifying by the preservation process.

MORE: Toilets and chicken coops -- 10 strange tours

In 1850 the relic was acquired by University College London, the South Cloister of which he imperiously gazes upon to this day.

Come for Jeremy Bentham, stay for … the jar of moles (see 8, below).

South Cloister, UCL, Gower Street; +44 207 679 0664

4. Ram’s head snuff 'mull' -- on wheels

Not content with making a snuff dispenser out of the head of a large ram, someone in 19th century Scotland thought it would be a good idea to put the whole affair on wheels.

Presumably if your eyes weren’t watering enough when this satanic sight coasted across the room after dinner, they soon would be after you’d snorted up a good dose of its contents.

Skull-shaped vessels ... more assorted oddities from the Wellcome Collection.The object is part of a vast collection of medical oddities that form the wonderful Wellcome Collection, most of which is sadly off-limits until spring 2014, when it re-opens after a grand expansion program.

Come for the ram’s head, stay for … the vicious Chinese torture chair. More at home in a snuff movie, perhaps.

Wellcome Collection, 183 Euston Road; +44 207 611 2222. Check website for details of reopening.

5. Digestive and respiratory systems of a sea cucumber

You read that right.

This unsurprisingly stringy offering is just one of the incredible array of unusual animal and human body parts on display at the intriguing Hunterian Museum within London’s Royal College of Surgeons.

Each container of pickled organs is more confronting than the next (there are jars of pickled jaws, too).

Behold, the nasal passage of a minke whale, the anus and urethra of a hyena and a wince-inducing display of syphilis-ravaged human penises.

Come for the cucumber, stay for … the labyrinthine internal organs of a “hellbender” salamander.

Hunterian Museum, 35-43 Lincoln's Inn Fields; +44 207 869 6560

6. Churchill’s chamber pot

During World War II, Britain carved out a subterranean command center where military leaders and politicians could safely mastermind operations as bombs pounded the streets above.

These dank corridors and chambers filled with Bakelite telephones and bulky filing cabinets hosted the country’s wartime leader, Winston Churchill, overnight on three occasions.

Next stop after Churchill's chamber pot: the Map Room.Lurking beneath a surprisingly tiny bed is Churchill’s chamber pot, provided in the absence of flushing toilets.

Given the then prime minister’s predilection for hosting morning meetings while still under the blankets, it must be hoped that someone was employed to empty it promptly.

Come for the chamber pot, stay for … The Map Room -- once the buzzing heart of the bunker.

Churchill War Rooms, Clive Steps, King Charles Street; +44 207 930 6961

7. The ‘Elephant Man’s’ skeleton

Another skeleton, but this time with a more woeful story than Jeremy Bentham's above.

The unfortunate life of Joseph Merrick, a Victorian man whose severe deformities led him to be known as the Elephant Man, has been well documented, not least in the Oscar-winning David Lynch film of 1980.

His story remains fascinating, partly for the continuing scientific disagreement on what caused his condition, but also as a disquieting window on attitudes to disfigurement.

READ: 15 of the world's weirdest hotels

For that last reason, the Royal London Hospital maintains a museum display about the man who became one of its most celebrated patients.

The centerpiece is an exact replica of Merrick’s skeleton created by Gentle Giant, a special effects company that has worked on movies such as Hunger Games and Iron Man.

The exhibit also features the hat and shroud Merrick was obliged to don in public to avoid shocking those around him.

Come for the skeleton, stay for … the alarming medical tools: hemorrhoid clamps, anyone?

Royal London Hospital Museum, St. Philip's Church, Newark Street; +44 207 377 7608

8. Jar of moles

The UCL’s Grant Museum of Zoology is home to possibly the oddest thing on display in London.

There isn’t much you can say about a glass jar inexplicably rammed with 18 dark-furred and pink-footed moles other than it is truly a thing of bad dreams.

Or terrible delicatessens.

The jar has, however, earned cult status via a well-followed Twitter account on which it appears to rail against government spending cuts and the insidiousness of stuffed fish.

Come for the moles, stay for … the massive anaconda skeleton. Gripping stuff.

Grant Museum of Zoology, Rockefeller Building, University College London, 21 University St.; +44203 108 2052

MORE: World's 10 weirdest medical museums

CNNGo in Kaohsiung: Taiwan's largest port and coolest art

hiufu — Tue, 14 Jan 2014 22:00:00 +0000

Art center, cultural park and Taiwan's best seafood. Kaohsiung isn't just another dull port city

Kaohsiung's artistic revolution
Preserving Kaohsiung's maritime past
Exploring ancient Kaohsiung

Once known mainly for its industrial harbor -- or as a layover spot on the way to somewhere else -- the Taiwanese city of Kaohsiung has grown into a hub of art and culture.

It's now one of the most attractive destinations in Taiwan.

A warehouse-turned-art center.

An ancient-village-turned-cultural-park.

An influential two-day outdoor music festival.

CNNGo explores how Kaohsiung has evolved so rapidly while managing to preserve its tradition.

Here are five episode highlights.

Pier-2 Art Center

A former warehouse, Pier 2 is packed with exhibitions and outdoor art.Once a cluster of warehouses, Pier-2 Art Center has helped boost Kaohsiung's cultural credibility by providing a revamped space for artists and musicians to hold concerts and exhibitions.

Every year Pier-2 hosts events as part of the Kaohsiung Design Festival and Rainbow Bay music festival. The two-day Rainbow Bay Festival is one of the biggest music events in Taiwan.

Pier-2 Art Center, 1 Dayong Road, Yancheng District, Kaohsiung City; +886 7 521 4899

MORE: 10 reasons to love Kaohsiung

3080s Apartment

A guest house that tells the story of the owner's family.A guest house located in one of Kaohsiung's oldest neighborhoods (Yan-Cheng), the 3080s Apartment was once a wedding dress shop founded by the current owner's grandmother.

The owner pays close attention to details that honor the history of the owner's family and of Kaohsiung itself. The 1930s and 1980s -- significant decades in Taiwanese history -- get special attention.

3080s Apartment, No.226, Wufu 4th Road, Yancheng District,Kaohsiung City, + 886 7 521 5938

Hongmaogang Cultural Park

Hongmao is an ancient Taiwanese term for the Dutch and Spanish who anchored here. It means "red hair."In 2007, the Hong Mao Gang Village was relocated to make room for the Port of Kaohsiung's Intercontinental Container Terminal. In order to preserve the history of the village, Hongmaogang Cultural Park was built.

The park includes exhibitions on the Hong Mao Gang community and replicas of old village houses.

The park is a great place to view the harbor.

Hongmaogang Cultural Park, No.2808, Nanxing Road, Xiaogang Distrist, Kaohsiung City

MORE: 10 things Taiwan does better than anywhere else

Da Dong Arts Center

The country's first art library stocks about 200,000 books.Opened in 2012, half of the Da Dong Arts Center venues are outdoor.

A model of architecture and a home for art, the center is home to performance halls, exhibition space and Taiwan's first art library.

Da Dong Arts Center, No.161, Guang Yuan Road, FengShan District , Kaohsiung City

Shoushan Lover's Observatory

Cutest place for photos on Shoushan.The highest point on Shoushan Mountain, the observatory offers some of the best views of Kaohsiung and includes a sculpture of the word "love" for romantically inclined models and photographers.

Shoushan Lover's Observatory

READ: 40 Taiwanese foods we can't live without

Cijin Island

A half-day cycling tour of Cijin Island is a great way to get outdoors. A quick ferry ride away, Cijin Island is arguably home to the best seafood in all of Taiwan -- no small feat or claim.

The beach is a good place to relax.

The island's centuries-old Matsu Temple is a must-see.

Cijin Island. Ferries run frequently from the Gushan District on the main island. The trip takes about five minutes.

CNNGo in Kaohsiung guests

Melisa Chiao, CEO, Da Da Arts Promotion

Daniel Chiu, owner, 3080s Apartment

Malone Chang, architect

Tiger Huang, singer

Peter Pan, Kaohsiung Sailing School

Ji Zi-hong, author

Soundtrack

“Going Nowhere” -- Fire Ex

“Ocean in the night” -- Elephant Gym

“Dance together” -- Elephant Gym

“Bananas are not Fat” -- Youth Banana

“Galaxy”-- Elephant Gym

“Sunrise on the Rooftop” -- Fire Ex

“His Story” -- Youth Banana

“Persistence and Diligence” -- Youth Banana

"Finger" -- Elephant Gym

"Brave Love" -- Tiger Huang

"It’s Not That Easy" -- Tiger Huang

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Kaohsiung

Taiwan travel

10 reasons to love Kaohsiung

hiufu — Tue, 14 Jan 2014 02:40:55 +0000

Taiwan's second biggest city is a fascinating mishmash of Buddhist ethics, outlandish nature and surprising art

For too long, Kaohsiung has been known to the world as Taiwan's largest port city -- it's time to give attention-craving Kaohsiung the love it deserves.

Taiwan's biggest night market, sexiest restaurant and coolest metro station -- these are just some of the superlatives to heap upon Kaohsiung.

As lifelong Kaohsiunger and radio DJ Hugo Wu tells CNN: "The weather is almost always good, the pace of life is slow and the city is free. Who would want to leave Kaohsiung?"

Biggest night market in Southeast Asia

Always colorful, always up late.
Kaisyuan or Jin-Zuan?

It’s been the hottest debate in Kaohsiung since last summer.

The rivalry between Kaisyuan and Jin-Zuan -- two adjacent night markets -- began from the week they opened, only three days apart.

Both claim to be the biggest market in Southeast Asia.

Each has hundreds of night market stalls.

Kaisyuan boasts a 30,000-square-meter space with 300 stalls.

Jin-Zuan stretches 23,000 square meters but is packed with 500 stalls.

Jin-Zuan wins over fans with delicious beer shrimp, handmade, pan-fried noodles and luxury, lounge-like toilet facilities.

Kaisyuan wows night market goers with a mini Phra Phrom (four-faced Buddha) and Bin Bin lemon juice hand-squeezed by muscular vendors.

Both are gigantic -- walking through either takes at least an hour.

Jin-Zuan is open Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 5 p.m.- 2 a.m.

Kaisyuan is open Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 5 p.m.- 2 a.m.

Both are located on Kaisyuan 4th Road.

MORE: 40 Taiwanese foods we can't live without

Fresh gourmet food

At Old New Restaurant, the three fixed-price menus change daily.
Gangshan District's lamb hotpot, Moon World's free-range chicken and Shin-Da Harbor and Cijin Island's seafood -- these are just the beginning of a long list of local Kaohsiung foods.

Locals love Meinong for authentic Hakka cuisine, such as sticky rice with pork wrapped in leaves.

Meixing Street (Meinong District's main food street) is dotted with Hakka noodle shops called Ban tiao.

Old New Restaurant serves the best taro sago sweet soup from the Jiasian District. The restaurant changes its menu daily using local specialties such as cuttlefish rice vermicelli, oyster soup and sashimi.

Taro and pork dumplings, aboriginal sausage and rice wine are aboriginal dishes made by various tribes in Kaohsiung.

Religious park where visitors exit from a tiger’s mouth

Enter the dragon's mouth for good fortune, exit from the tiger's mouth to banish bad luck.
After the dozens temples you may have visited in Asia, you may not be excited about another Buddhist/Taoist destination.

But Lotus Pond is a real attraction.

Officially opened in 1951 (some temples in the park are more than two centuries old), the Lotus Pond consists a man-made lake with more than a dozens temples, pavilions and pagodas.

The Dragon and Tiger Pagodas are two seven-story pagodas guarded by crouching tiger and dragon statues.

Visitors enter through the dragon’s mouth into a tunnel (inside the dragon’s body) with walls embellished with carvings. Visitors exit via the mouth of the tiger for good luck.

Restaurant that offers sex education

You might blush when ordering the chocolate pudding.
Diners flock to Funny Sex Restaurant to giggle rather than to eat.

Living up to its name, Funny Sex Restaurant is a humorous and erotic place to hang out -- the chocolate pudding comes in the shape of a penis.

“Our founder spent a long time collecting the erotic objects in the restaurant,” says manager Chen Yu-qi. “It’s not easy to choose, as they have to be decorative and not repulsive.”

Apart from dozens of sexualized miniature figures, the most embarrassing decorations include a custom-ordered two-meter-long wooden penis shrine and soap dispenser shaped like a pair of breasts.

There's also a blow up doll hanging about.

“We’ll let her (the sex doll) join a table to lighten the atmosphere while customers are waiting for food,” says Chen.

“A lot of our guests have heard of these sex toys, but they’ve never really touched them. It’s a good and fun learning experience for them.”

Informative posters list average breast and penis sizes for different nationalities.

Funny Sex Restaurant, 2/F, 446 Zhongshan Road, Lingya District, Kaohsiung; +886 7 333 6598; open Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday and public holidays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

READ: 10 things Taiwan does better than anywhere else

Taiwan's prettiest metro station

Serene as an Italian cathedral. When not filled with commuters.
The Formosa Boulevard Station in Kaohsiung is the most beautiful metro station in Taiwan, if not the world.

The three-story station was designed by Japanese architect Takamatsu Shin. The above-ground glass entrance is designed to resemble a pair of hands clasped in prayer.

But the real treasure is underground -- the 2,180-square-meter Dome of Light, a glass mural built into the ceiling of the station.

The colorful ceiling was created by American-Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata.

It's the largest such glass installation in the world.

Quagliata also built the Dome of Light for Rome's Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs.

Enormous art

Non-KingKong Group at Pier-2 Art Center.
Public artwork -- usually enormous -- is everywhere to be seen at Pier-2, formerly a warehouse complex located near the harbor.

Labor and Fisherwoman are the cartoon-like statues found throughout the park, each with a different outfit created by various artists.

Heartbeats Light is a pillar with a light display synced with human heartbeats.

Non-KingKong Group features a troop of 16 steel giants standing in front of the harbor.

On a spacious lawn in front of the warehouses are more over-sized artworks, including two eerie lizards crouching on a train.

“Founded and funded by the government’s Bureau of Cultural Affairs, Pier-2 is unique in that it doesn’t have to be commercialized to survive,” says Sunny Jein, head of Pier-2 operation center.

Pier-2 Art Center, 1 Dayong Road, Yancheng District, Kaohsiung; open Monday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Friday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

MORE: CNNGo in Kaohsiung: Taiwan's largest port and coolest art

Indoor attractions at Pier 2

In Our Time has more than 200 types of imported beer.
At Pier 2, warehouses have become art spaces housing different exhibitions.

Others have been turned into stylish coffee shops and theaters.

In Our Time is a gallery/restaurant/live music house/radio station. Diners can oversee the in-house web radio station from the restaurant, which also stocks a large collection of international beers and local teas.

Coastal Bar starred in a popular Taiwanese crime TV drama as a gangster's lair. The setting remains the same as the TV set, but the better area is an al fresco strip behind the bar by the sea.

The Wall Pier-2 is a roofless concert venue.

Bandon Grocery Store is an adorable zakka store where travelers can make their own notebooks.

Moon World and other day trips

Moon World is known for its lack of trees.
The northern side of Kaohsiung is known for Tianliao, a stretch of heavily eroded hillside.

The rugged, treeless mountains add a surreal accent to the area around Kaohsiung.

Lan Yue Lou (Embrace the Moon Pavilion) is an attraction in the middle of the mountains.

Meinong attracts visitors with colorful flower beds (in January) and Hakka cuisine.

Cishan Island is known for well preserved old streets. Travelers here can rent a bicycle and tour the island, which is famed for fresh seafood, three-century old Mazu Temple and a warm beach.

Moon World, Yueqiu Road, Chongde Village, Tianliao District, Kaohsiung

Superhero lottery shop

Hugu Wu and his Ironman figure.
A year ago, superhero lover and lottery shop owner Tong Young-wu was looking to buy an Ironman figure, only to be startled by the price.

“It was TWD180,000 (about $6,000) so I thought I could just build one myself,” says Tong.

“It’s a long process. You’ve got to find a mannequin that resembles a superhero's face before styling its hair and putting on makeup.

“I spent a lot of time thinking about different materials. For example, the armor shoulder pads are actually made from a cut-open piggy bank and Cat Woman’s outfit is actually taken from my girlfriend’s wardrobe.”

Tong's superhero family currently has eight members, excluding the two tall robots at the door.

After the installation of the superhero figures, the lottery shop's business increased 30%.

Travelers are welcome to stop by and take pictures with the figures.

Taiwan Lottery, 52 Binhai 1st Road, Gushan District, Kaohsiung

MORE: Giant duck conquers Taiwan

Inflatable Rubber Duck

Sole survivor.
Kaohsiung wasn't only the first stop for Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman's inflatable Rubber Duck in Taiwan. The Kaohsiung duck is the only one that survived the entire exhibition. Taoyuan's Rubber Duck deflated after an earthquake; Keelung's Rubber Duck burst on New Year's Eve.

Hofman was persuaded to bring his Rubber Duck to Kaohsiung thanks to the city's tremendous enthusiasm for the unusual display.

During the month the Rubber Duck was docked in Kaohsiung, it brought 3.9 million visitors to the venue.

Thanks to its success, the city has announced that the Rubber Duck will return in 2014.

Vientiane: Best Chinese food outside of China

karlac1 — Thu, 09 Jan 2014 06:20:00 +0000

Chinese businessmen taking advantage of Laos' development boom are fueling demand for great, authentic regional cuisine

It’s boom time in Laos. The country's unprecedented economic growth has inspired the country’s powerful neighbors to rush in for a slice of the pie.

The hungriest of them all is China.

Chinese businessmen arrive in Vientiane and many settle in the Chinese enclave just outside the city, Sanjiang Cheng (Three Rivers City).

For the best Chinese food in Laos, hit Sanjiang Cheng. On the left, a restaurant serving delicious roast duck. Here, they purchase Chinese goods, communicate in Mandarin and, of course, eat traditional Chinese food.

In other countries, Chinese food is heavily influenced by the host country's native ingredients and preferences. In Laos, however, Chinese ingredients are often easy to acquire.

These factors combine to make Vientiane one of the best places outside of China to sample China’s regional cuisines.

You just have to know where to find it.

The Sanjiang Cheng area offers almost every one of the “Eight Great Traditions of Chinese Cuisine."

The following four are standouts, but finding authentic food at other restaurants in the little district is easy.

If you ask for the region’s tècài (special dish), the chef is usually happy to oblige.

Chinese Restaurant of Fujian Flavor (福建风味馆)

Razor clams, a Fujian specialty. Never mind its clumsily translated name, this restaurant serves up accurate Fujian cuisine.

Reflecting Fujian’s emphasis on seafood, you can choose from a cornucopia of sea critters kept on ice near the back of the restaurant.

Their razor clams (bàochǎo lǎochēng), a Fujian specialty, are particularly tasty.

The pork dishes, like braised eggplant served with ground pork and chilis (hóngshāo qiézi) and the twice-cooked pork (huíguō ruò), are also very good.

You can find it by looking for the peaked roof with green Lao script and red Chinese script in the northwest corner of the restaurant sector’s small parking lot.

Open daily, early morning-10 p.m.; LAK 20,000-75,000 ($2.53-9.50) per dish

More: 31 dishes: A guide to China's regional specialties

Guangdong Roast Duck (广东烧鸭)

A plate of Guangdong roast duck. So authentic you'll think you were there. If you don’t have a large group to fill up the spacious Fujian restaurant, the place next door is a better option.

Guǎngdōng shāoyā -- Cantonese-style roast duck -- is less than $3 for a breast with rice and veggies, and local Guangdong natives swear by its authenticity. You can also get chicken breast in the same style, called shāojī.

Beside the Fujian restaurant. Open daily, 8 a.m.-9 p.m.; LAK 15,000-35,000 ($1.90-4.40) per dish

More: China's great duck rivalry

Hunan Restaurant (湖南风味馆)

Hunan-style xiāngjiàng páigǔ -- sweet and spicy braised pork short ribs.Hunan’s native cuisine changes with the season. Despite Vientiane’s more tropical location, the chef still abides by miniscule temperature variations.

Hunan’s most famous dish, the spicy Dong’an chicken, is only available during winter and spring.

In the summer, the Hunan-style xiāngjiàng páigǔ -- sweet and spicy braised pork short ribs -- is great.

They go perfectly with a can of jiāduōbǎo, a chilled herbal tea popular on the mainland.

Facing Guangdong Roast Duck, Hunan is located about 15 yards to the right, facing south. Open daily, 8 a.m.-10 p.m.; LAK 15,000-60,000 ($1.90-7.60) per dish

More: Welcome to the most creative restaurant in China

Dongbei Dumpling Restaurant (东北饺子馆)

Nobody can resist fried dumplings. Dumplings are a staple food of Northeast Chinese cuisine and this small restaurant makes them fresh all day long.

A $2.50 plate of guōtiē -- fried dumplings -- will fill you up for most of the day.

Though the menu is small, the amiable Manchurian owner is happy to make regional specialties like dìsānxiān, a hearty vegetarian dish made from eggplant, bell pepper and potato, if you give him a day’s notice.

He’ll hunt down the ingredients and cook it for you for lunch the next day.

Two doors to the east of Hunan Restaurant. Open daily, 8 a.m.-10 p.m.; dumplings LAK 10,000-20,000 ($1.26-2.53); dishes up to LAK 45,000

More: Ultimate guide to Chinese dumplings

Downtown Vientiane

There are a few Chinese restaurants dotted around downtown Vientiane, though most of their kitchens churn out half-hearted attempts at decent mainland food.

Of note, though, is the Chinese Liaoning Dumpling Restaurant. The chefs here churn out plates of shuǐjiǎo (boiled dumplings) in a steady stream at lunch and dinner. Pork and chives is the best and most popular filling.

Other dishes are hit or miss.

Two doors to the west of popular nightlife spot Bor Pen Nyang on Quai Fa Ngum. Open daily, 8.30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4.30-10.30 p.m.; dumplings LAK 16,000-88,000 ($2-11.10), dishes LAK 18,000-98,000

Getting to Sanjiang Chang

Sanjiang Cheng is three kilometers west of downtown on Rue Samsenthai/Souphanouvong Avenue toward the airport.

At the large green sign that says “San Jiang Hotel," a right turn leads to the nondescript south gate.

The compact restaurant district is at the opposite end of the enclave, near the main entrance to the large indoor mall and to the northwest of the roundabout.

Most tuk-tuk drivers know where it is (Xang Jieng in Lao), and rides cost LAK 20,000-25,000 ($2.53-3.16).

More: Asia's 10 greatest street food cities

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8 great Middle Eastern winter adventures

sbusch — Mon, 06 Jan 2014 07:00:00 +0000

From mangrove-kayaking to sandboarding -- here's why outdoors addicts love winter in the Middle East

Winter in the Middle East means go time for fans of the great outdoors.

Near-perfect weather and vast swathes of open space make it perfect for sun-seeking adventure-travel fans -- but one that won’t remain so under-visited for long.

Paragliding in Doha

Faultless blue skies, decent winds and low chance of rain make the dunes outside the Qatari capital of Doha ideal for paragliding.

Run by expert flyers Marc and Ovi, Qatarparagliding runs tours taking first timers and seasoned gliders out into the dunes on tandem introductory flights or for entire five-day courses.

If you believe the best way to see a place is by air, paragliding throws in an adrenaline fix to boot.

Qatar Paragliding (contact is by email); $140 per person for tandem flights

READ: Beyond Dubai -- 6 exotic and luxurious escapes

Mangrove-kayaking in Abu Dhabi

Bizarrely, you can probably hear taxis honking in central Abu Dhabi from here.

Eco-tourism is gaining favor in Abu Dhabi, and navigating the mangrove fields fringing the UAE capital’s archipelago in a kayak epitomizes this low-impact approach to tourism.

Weaving down small streams and ducking under the canopy of trees, you forget you’re within a cab ride of the city center.

Noukhada Adventures; +971 2 650 3600; $325 in total for mangrove tours for one to eight people

Dune-bashing in Dubai

Dunes: there to be bashed in a 4WD.

Hurtling up and over sand dunes at 40 kilometers an hour, shunting violently from side-to-side -- dune-bashing can get pretty rough, but boy is it thrilling.

Just 20 minutes’ drive from Dubai, the rolling desert dunes are a playground to residents pushing their Land Cruisers to the limits.

Novice dune-bashers should play it safe and get a trained driver to take them -- but if you’re in town for a bit, you can learn how to drive on sand yourself.

Arabian Adventures; +971 4 303 4888; $60 per person for a morning dune drive

Sandboarding in Egypt

Sandboarding: serious speed.

The pyramids, the Valley of the Kings, luxurious cruises down the Nile?

Old hat.

Extreme-sports freaks can instead hurtle head-first down one of Egypt’s hundreds of enormous sand dunes.

It’s not for the faint-hearted: halfway down one of these dunes you’ll have picked up some serious speed.

Organized sandboarding trips leave from Cairo, Sharm El Sheikh and Dahab, offering 4WD transport, a guide, lunch and plenty of water.

Sadana Sandboarding; +20 106 664 6116; contact for 2014 prices

MORE: the UAE's most outrageous hotel suites

Camel-trekking in Jordan

Lawrence of Arabia knew it: the only way to really experience the desert is to traverse it by camel.

Tailor-made camel-back treks are available from Jordan's capital, Amman, across the desert plains, past the Dead Sea and towards the ancient city of Petra -- one of the man-made wonders of the world.

Sleeping in camps and tents, you’ll get a real feeling for how the Bedouins lived and experience firsthand the beauty of the desert.

Wadi Rum Bedouin Guides (contact is by email); from $85 per person per day

White-water rafting in Al Ain

Mind that paddle!

Wadi Adventure, the recently opened water sports center in the UAE city of Al Ain, is testament to the growing interest in adventure sports in the Middle East.

This man-made water park boasts three world-class whitewater rafting and kayaking runs with a combined length of 1,133 meters, as well as a surf pool churning out 3.3-meter-high waves every 90 seconds.

The park’s so state-of-the-art that several European kayaking teams are considering it for their winter training base.

Al Ain seems to be learning from nearby Dubai and Abu Dhabi that “if you build it, they will come.”

Wadi Adventure; +971 3 781 8422; park admission from $14 per person

Skydiving in Dubai

The Palm -- best viewed hurtling towards it.

Jumping out of a plane strapped to a parachute is the latest craze sweeping skyscraper-crowded Dubai.

Thanks to some heavy investing from the Crown Prince, in only a couple of years Dubai’s marina dropzone has clawed its way to the pinnacle of many skydivers’ “must jump” list.

“What blows everyone’s mind is the view of The Palm as you’re falling,” says former skydiving world champion Craig Girard.

The world’s taking note -- last year Skydive Dubai hosted the Mondial, the world’s biggest parachuting and skydiving event.

Skydive Dubai; +971 501 533 222; $545 per person for a tandem jump

READ: Best places to travel in 2014

Diving in Oman

The coast of Oman offers cliffs and drop-offs aplenty for divers.

The Kingdom of Oman is gaining a reputation as one of the best diving spots in the Middle East.

Coral reefs, wrecks and dramatic drop-offs offer divers of all abilities lots of options -- plus this is one of the best times of year, in water that’s still warm, to spot dolphins, hawksbill turtles and even the odd whale shark.

If you want to go a little further afield, the northern tip of the Arabian Peninsula -- known as the Musandam -- is home to some of the best dive sites in the region.

Muscat Diving & Adventure Center; +968 2448 5663; $415 per person for a two-night diving and accommodation package

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Video: A year of shimmering Northern Lights in Norway

hiufu — Thu, 02 Jan 2014 04:50:29 +0000

A Norwegian photographer spent 2013 documenting Auroras and whittled his footage down to five minutes. Here's the result

Northern Lights in Norway

Yes, photos of the Aurora Borealis in the Arctic and Antarctic are beautiful, but it takes this stunning video to convey the full, other-worldly effect of one of nature's most spectacular sights.

After quitting his job as an equities broker, Ole Christian Salomonsen became a full-time photographer and videographer. He spent the last few years capturing the Northern Lights in video in Norway, annually compressing the footage into 5-minute videos.

The 2013 video above features the lights over the natural landscape of Norway and the cityscape of Tromsø.

Our favorite bit is at 3:55 -- when the Aurora Borealis can be seen atop a sea of clouds hovering over the city.

READ: 27 sights that will remind you how incredible Earth is

"Auroras are visible in many places but northern Norway is the best place to experience it due to the great arctic landscapes and seascapes you can use with Auroras when photographing," says Salomonsen.

"Norway also has tall, steep mountains, long fjords and snow covered trees. Combining these with Auroras in the sky makes the whole experience more complete."

The relatively gentle climate and great infrastructure are more reasons to go see them in Norway, says the Aurora fanatic.

But what's the best way to capture the beauty of the natural spectacle? You have to watch for coronal holes -- the dark side of the sun, says Salomonsen.

"These follow the rotations of the sun (28 days) and often when the coronal hole is facing earth, you can get flares and coronal mass ejections [bursts of gas] that will result in the greatest Northern Lights on earth."

Salomonsen's previous videos of Norway can be seen here.

READ: B est places to see the Northern Lights

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The morning after: Asia's top hangover cures

karlac1 — Wed, 01 Jan 2014 02:01:25 +0000

Waking up to 2014 with a booze-induced illness? Forget the greasy breakfasts. Rice gruel and ox blood are the surefire restoratives your body seeks

It's a self-induced ailment that transcends culture and language barriers. The hangover.

Whether you’ve binged on sake or baijou, the result is too often the same: pounding headache, mouth like a Russian wrestler's jockstrap, urge to spend the day close to something white and made of porcelain.

Though hangovers might be universal, cures for the brown bottle flu are not.

Some boozers swear that a greasy breakfast does the trick. But if you find yourself in an Asian city New Year's Day with nary a greasy English fry-up in sight, these local hangover cures should make you feel half-human in no time.

China: Congee

Nothing like a big bowl of gruel to pick you up off the floor. What is it: On the surface, congee is a pretty simple dish. Chinese rice porridge. Gruel, if you really want to get fancy.

But it takes on many variations throughout the country. You can add almost anything to your congee, such as salted duck eggs, lettuce and various meats -- just not all at once.

Why people think it works: Congee has long been considered a comfort food for people who simply aren’t feeling well, which aptly describes anyone hungover.

Being a soupy solid, it tackles both causes of hangover by rehydrating and soothing irritated stomach lining.

Unlike some popular hangover cures, congee is easy to swallow when you're in rough shape and tastes pretty good with the right flavorings.

Where to find it: While not quite as easy to find as other Chinese hangover cures, such as tea or ginger, the best bet is to head for the nearest dim sum restaurant (though many Chinese restaurants carry it).

More on CNN: Chinese hangover cures that don't involve more alcohol

Japan: Green tea

No need for Powerade when you've got green tea. What is it: The most Japanese of all beverages. A bitter yet refreshing drink served hot or cold.

Why people think it works: Green tea is high in antioxidants and will help detoxify an abused liver a lot better than the self-destructive "the hair of the dog that bit you."

It may also help with headache and nausea. At the very least, its stimulating side effects will allow you to walk upright like a triumph of evolution so you don't hit that business meeting looking like you just rolled off the couch with bits of popcorn in your hair.

Be warned: most Japanese green tea also contains a fair amount of caffeine, which won’t help someone who just wants to sleep off a hangover.

If you're not afraid of the funky, drop a few umeboshi (plum-like ume fruit soaked in sea salt) into your green tea. It's super-salty and sour, but said to aid in restoring all those eletrolytes you killed off the night before.

Where to find it: Green tea is available in cold form pretty much everywhere and incredibly easy to brew on your own, even with a nasty, grating hangover. Chances are, your hotel room will have a few green tea packets next to the hot water kettle.

South Korea: Hangover stew

Blood of ox beats hair of dog. So say many Koreans. What is it: You know you’re in a country of late-night boozers when a dish is named in honor of the ailment it’s designed to eradicate.

Korea’s haejangguk actually means “stew to cure a hangover.”

Though versions vary throughout South Korea, the usual bowl of haejangguk is made from a beef broth, with cabbage, bean sprouts, radish, egg and chunks of congealed ox blood. Mmmm. Guess which is the secret ingredient?

Why people think it works: The deeply satisfying taste does wonders to kick-start a sluggish brain in the morning, while the thick, hearty ingredients soothe soju-irritated stomachs.

The only challenge is convincing yourself to take that first bite. It's not pretty to look at, what with that big raw egg yolk staring you in the eye like a disapproving grandmother.

Where to find it: Haejangguk can be purchased in the morning from street vendors all over Seoul.

If in doubt, look for the nearest cart surrounded by tired, sluggish Koreans in need of a pick-me-up on the way to the office.

Thailand: Spicy noodle soup

Kway tiew nahm sai (clear noodle soup) is made with pork bones, radish, cilantro, sliced pork, pork balls, bean sprouts and Chinese kale. What it is: Almost every recipe for pad kee mao (Thai drunken noodles) posted online comes with the claim that this simple dish is a good hangover cure.

But according to locals, pad kee mao is best eaten while you're in the process of drinking. Not after.

Instead, spicy noodle soup is what cures what ails you the morning after.

It comes in many forms. Yellow noodles. Glass noodles. Wide noodles. Noodles topped with beef, fish balls, pork, chicken, pigs blood or duck.

And all are made with different flavors of broth, including the all-powerful tom yum.

Why people think it works: Many Thais claim extra spicy soup helps freshen them up by letting them sweat out some of those nasty booze toxins and shake that queasy hangover feeling. The hearty ingredients, on the other hand, tame the angry beast crying for attention in your stomach.

For some, the idea of slurping a bowl of spicy liquid when your stomach lining is already irritated is about as appealing as knocking back another five shots of tequila.

Fortunately, at Thai noodle stands you can add your own spice from a dispenser on the table (few travelers can handle the spice intensity the locals can).

Where to find it: Hit up the nearest street noodle stand. If you're really desperate, any Thai convenience store carries cups of instant noodles, which will do the trick if you're in a hungover pinch.

More on CNN: A noodle soup lover's guide to Bangkok

Hong Kong: Ginseng tea

That's going to make a lot of tea. What is it: American ginseng, sliced up and steeped in hot water.

Why people think it works: The mildly bitter root calms the body by purging excessive Yang, or hot positive energy, from the body.

Chinese elders will also tell you that the herb generates fluids and curbs thirstiness –- perfect for hangover dehydration.

Where to find it: Ginseng tea is widely available in grocery stores and tea shops. Or just make it yourself.

All you have to do is simmer fresh slices of American ginseng in hot water. To mellow out the mildly medicinal flavor, mix in some honey.

India: Coconut water

Even if you're not hungover, coconut water is refreshing. Just ask Indian star batsman Suresh Raina. What is it: Not to be confused with coconut milk, coconut water is the liquid inside unripened coconuts.

Why people think it works: Again, it's all about electrolytes. Many Indians swear by coconut water as a hangover cure, as it's full of nutrients and potassium, making it fantastic for rehydrating.

Best of all, it's natural and healthy.

Where to get it: Throughout the tropics in Asia, plenty of vendors can be found on the streets selling fresh, young coconuts.

But these days you can get it anywhere. Though scientists say its benefits aren't fully proven, big companies are capitalizing on the coconut water health trend by bottling it for convenience store shelves.

Got a favorite hangover cure? Share your morning-after secrets in the comments box below.

Originally posted November 2012, updated January 2014.

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