CNNGo Explorations RSS Feed

10 avant garde performances that make you go 'Huh?'

Thu, 27 May 2010 23:45:56 +0000

Including: Bloody limbs made out of bread and dancers with white turds on their heads

Avant garde art may carry a deeply profound message, but more often than not it leaves viewers scratching their heads in befuddlement. Here are 10 prime examples from all over Asia. Are these stirring works, or random messes masquerading as art? We'll leave it for you to decide.

Tokyo, Japan: Hanakengo

Hana and Kengo are white and lumpy, have turds on their heads, and bounce about in a coked-up dance. When asked to describe their performance, the duo giggled, “PoPPooooo!!!! Perrapome kemuni po!!!”

Tokyo: Crawling salaryman robot

Momoyo Torimitsu wears a nurse uniform and attends to her robot Mr Jiro, who looks like a typical Japanese salaryman and scuttles around on his stomach. “Sometimes I have to change his battery, which means I have to turn him off and take his pants off,” she says.

Qingyuan, China: Giant breasts sculpture

Shu Yong sculpted two giant knockers to send a message against over-inflated implants. Unfortunately, some locals missed the message -- and smashed the first version of his 'pornographic' artwork to pieces.

Beijing, China: The invisible man

Liu Bolin paints himself to blend in with his surroundings and takes photos that show him barely visible. When he finally moves, seemingly materializing out of nowhere, passersby are known to scream.

Beijing, China: Tigers made from human hair

Most Chinese celebrated the Year of the Tiger by eating mooncakes. But barber Huang Xin decided to save his customers’ hair and use it to make cute tiger dolls. Talk about hair-raising modern art…

Hyderabad, India: Nose painting

When artist Sachivalu Rambabu decided to do something different, he “followed his nose.” For the past nine years, he has been painting portraits using the tip of his schnozzle. Not to be outdone, Kerala painter Ani K has begun using his tongue as a brush.

Varanasi, India: Candle moustache dance

Rajan Kumar Tiwari invented a "moustache dance” based on classical Indian dance forms. He sticks six lit candles in his facial hair and jiggles in time to the drum beat. The technique took years to perfect, and Tiwari claims his beard has never caught fire.

Ratchaburi, Thailand: Body parts made from bread

Hungry for a knuckle sandwich? Thai art school graduate Kittiwat Unarrom sculpts decapitated heads and limbs out of dough and decorates them to look as gory as possible. Rather than churning stomachs, the edible art lures hundreds of visitors a day into his family’s bakery, where it is exhibited.

Seoul, Korea: LED eyelashes

Soomi Park wanted to create “a product that speaks to many Asian women’s desire for bigger eyes.” So she created an accessory that literally lights up the eyes. The fake lashes are made from LED lights and flicker when a sensor detects movement.

Singapore: Noise bands

Singapore’s Gashous is a popular venue for indie and experimental music. But when it comes to this showcase of local noise bands, the word “music” barely applies. How far can you make it through the video before covering your ears?

Tags: street art, Japanese art, art performances

On the rise: Asian art's not just about the Chinese

Wed, 26 May 2010 23:45:33 +0000

Contemporary Asian artists from Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, and elsewhere are poised to gain recognition regionally and worldwide alongside their Chinese peers

Post North Korea Nuclear Test #58 by R.E. Haranto (oil on linen; 200 X 200 cm)

At an April 5, 2010 Sotheby's auction in Hong Kong a world record was set with the sale of a piece by Lee Man Fong for US$3,243,590. The significance of the record? It was the highest selling price for any Southeast Asian painting ever sold at an auction.

The high price of Lee's painting, Bali Life, is an indicator of just how far Asian contemporary art, not just Chinese contemporary art, has come, and the potential it has to gain further recognition in a world with art giants from the West getting the majority of the attention.

But compare the US$3.2 million sale of Bali life with that of Beijing-based artist Zeng Fanzhi’s oil-on-canvas diptych Mask Series 1996 No. 6 that set the record for the most expensive contemporary Asian artwork ever sold at US$9.7 million at a Christie’s sale in 2008. It would appear that non-Chinese Asian art still has some way to go in achieving that kind of market value.

Not just about the value

Fortunately for non-Chinese contemporary Asian art, its not only about the market value, but also the art and the recognition of great artists and works. One recently formed organization called Asian Auction Week (AAW) is working to promote artists not commonly seen at the big auction houses such as Sotheby's and Christie's. Think of the AAW as similar to a minor league sports organization that cultivates talent in preparation for the Big Leagues (Sotheby's). The AAW is comprised of auction houses Asian Art Auction Alliance (AAAA) from Japan, K Auction from South Korea, Kingsley's Art Auction from Taiwan, and One East Larasati from Singapore.

Daniel Komala, president and CEO of Larasati and AAW spokesperson told CNNGo that the lesser known Asian contemporary artists will catch up to the Chinese "within a lifetime, but not to Damien Hirst levels!" Larasati features a boutique type of collection of works by artists from Indonesia, China, India, Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam and the Philippines, and in conjunction with the other AAW auction houses, is striving to "enhance the appreciation and development of art in Asia." Even Hirst had to start somewhere before he became a household name, and recognition starts with appreciation.

Vinci Chang, vice president & head of sale of Chinese 20th century art & Asian contemporary art at Christie's Hong Kong sums up why the cultural value and significance of Asian art is starting to gain that appreciation on a world stage: "Information floods the countries via the internet and Western ideas merge with Eastern cultures."

Chang continues, "Artists take these external influences and reject, accept or contrast them with their own culture. It is this fine balance of Eastern aesthetics, philosophy and a perspective that intrinsically distinguishes Asian contemporary artists from their Western counterparts, creating new visual commentaries on a powerful contextual revolution through their art, and thus engaging in a global dialogue between the traditional and the contemporary."

Promotion will get you everywhere

Yoichiro Kurata, managing director and CEO of AAAA says, "Christie's did a really good job promoting Japanese contemporary art, and since 2006 the contemporary art market has been on the rise." Maybe not coincidentally, Christie's Hong Kong was the first auction house to introduce stand-alone Chinese 20th century & Asian contemporary art sales in the fall of 2006.

Click here to read about how to be a Hong Kong art investor

Yoichiro Kurata wants to promote really good Japanese art outside of Japan, especially considering "more than 70 percent of Japanese contemporary art buyers are Japanese," according to Kurata. He continues, "And younger Japanese are strong buyers. We spend!" He contends that the AAW will help promote Japanese art because smaller auction houses compete against each other, but when "joined together in an alliance, it opens everything up."

With more promotion of not just Japanese contemporary art, but Taiwanese, South East Asian, and Korean, suddenly a new world of emerging artists becomes more visible to the West when "New York and London need a new set of toys." says Daniel Komala. "The players (buyers) can't be only Southeast Asian," admits Komala. "You can't effect the high prices with just Southeast Asia players. To be on the world stage you need the West."

Emerging contemporary artists from these regions could have an edge over Chinese contemporary art because potential collectors breaking into the Asian contemporary art buying scene might think its "Easier to sit on US$10,000 than US$10,000,000," says Komala. Yoichiro Kurata supports this line of thought in regards to Japanese art, "For Asian collectors, Japanese art looks reasonably priced," he says.

That's not to say Chinese contemporary art isn't going to break out as a result of lower priced works from other Asian countries. "They're like barbarians at the gate. Cannot stop them (Chinese)!" Daniel Komala emphasized.

Artists to watch

Komala suggests looking out for RE Hartanto, a graduate of the Bandung Institute of Technology Indonesia majoring in painting in 1998 that has participated in numerous group exhibitions. FX Harsono is another Indonesian painter Komala favors and is featuring in the AAW May 29 auction in Hong Kong. One of Harsono's 2009 works was inspired by the terrorist bombing of the Marriott Hotel in Jakarta in 2003. Ahmad Zakii Anwar, another artist up for auction, is one of Malaysia's most promising contemporary artists. Anwar was trained as a graphic designer, went into advertising, then made the shift to fine art. His current on-going series features charcoal figures of the male nude form such as his work Reclining Figure No. 9.

Yoichiro Kurata mentions Takashi Murakami and photographer/artist Ken Kitano as favorites. Kurata says "Murakami is going to be a really great artist." In the grand scheme of contemporary art sale prices, Murakami's pieces aren't very expensive and are very accessible, as long as you snap them up before they sell out. Kurata added, "He sold out in one day in 2002 to Korean, Taiwanese, and Hong Kong (buyers)." Some of his works are available to bid on during the AAAA contemporary auction on May 28 in Hong Kong.

Ken Kitano has been making composite portraits of groups of people, layering multiple images on top of one another until one common face and a ghostly body emerge.

Click here to read about art buying for beginners on CNNGo

Thai contemporary artists are on the rise as well, says Bangkok based artist Steven Pettifor, writer, curator and author of "Flavours -- Thai Contemporary Art." Pettifor mentions some noticeable Thai artists on the international radar, including "artists like Araya Rasdjarmreansook, Navin Rawanchaikul, Surasi Kusolwong, Sakarin Krue-on, and Nipan Oraniwesna, who harness media, situational and process art, with Asian identifiers. Of Thailand’s younger emergent artists, Tawan Wattuya is gaining notoriety for his satirical fluid watercolors that poke fun at conformity in Thai society, while Chusak Srikwan employs Nang talung, or shadow puppetry, to breakdown boundaries between folk art and fine art."

"Undiscovered" contemporary artists are also gaining attention through supportive avant garde galleries like those found in Macau, known more for its gambling than it arts scene, or through lo-fi exhibitions like the Katallog Catalog at AOD Art Space in Jakarta.

The future

Chinese contemporary art is still the 500lb gorilla of the region leading the charge even if it is still considered 'emerging' on the world stage. But Asian contemporary art is emerging as a whole with the help of auction alliances like AAW, the support of more local and international buyers, and increasing appearances of artists at the large auction houses Sotheby's and Christie's.

As Asia's importance rises in the world, so does its art. Despite the heavy focus on Western contemporary art on the world market, the quality and artistic talent of Asian contemporary artists has always been there. It is a pivotal time for Asian contemporary art and art lovers would do well to consider Andy Warhol's words, "The idea of waiting for something makes it more exciting."

Upcoming Asian Art Auctions and Events

AAAA Contemporary Auction: May 28, 2010, 19:00 Four Seasons Hong Kong
AAW Modern and Contemporary Art Auction: May 29, 2010, 2pm Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, The Connaught Room
ARTHK 10: May 27-30, Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, Hong Kong
Christie's Asian Art Auctions: May 28-30, 2010. See Christie's Calendar.

Tags: Southeast Asian art, contemporary art, Chinese contemporary art, Asian art

Original copies and real replicas from Indonesia's artists

Tue, 25 May 2010 23:45:33 +0000

CNNGo reports from the recent Katallog Catalog at AOD art space in south Jakarta, to find out what drives Indonesia’s lo-fi artists

Fauzy Prasetya stood making copies the night the Katallog exhibition opened. The walls around him held a multifarious collection of mixed media -- paper cutouts, fabric peacocks pinned on doilies, watercolor stencils and metaphorical messages crafted from earthenware. The artwork was colorful, witty and inventive -- but Fauzy was busy making unlimited editions.

The exhibition, Katallog Catalog, displayed the work of an art collective by the same name, and the copier and the art reproductions it churned out were a playful way of showing how the artists feel about much of the mainstream art world.

“The copy idea is like a factory thing, it’s like mass production,” said Tisa Grahicia, a ceramic artist who displayed two plates with the words “lust” and “desire” at the exhibition. Like her peers, Tisa feels art has been commoditized as people become more driven by consumption and the irrational need to buy.

Curator Christopher Kerrigan said the idea for the copies came during a visit to a Jakarta mall that sells pirated DVDs. When he asked why some of the DVDs were more expensive, the shop owner told him it was because they were “original copies.”

Kerrigan was baffled: “It’s still a copy.”

Indo artists pulling the big bucks

With the world’s attention shifting towards Asia -- on everything from investment to tourism -- buyers and art houses are looking here too, and mainstream Indonesian artists are pulling in big bucks from the interest.

But large commissions from collectors push artists to create in a certain way, said the Katallog crew, and that turns art into a product. The artists say they are not in a position to judge what other artists are doing, but the exhibition was partly their reaction to what’s happening.

The commentary also comes second to their main objective, which is fun.

Katallog comprises 12 young artists based in Bandung, a city curators see as the center of Indonesia’s burgeoning contemporary art scene. The collective runs a shop there that sells jewelry, bags, clothing and household goods handcrafted by the artists.

Rather than view it as a commercial space, however, the artists say it’s more like their personal studio, a place that helps them keep their heads in the art world without having to create according to patterns or rules.

Artist Yuki Agriardi says he doesn’t think about what the market wants or what will sell. He uses the shop as a place to test new ideas and see how people respond to them.

His latest work, Wandering Wonder, depicts a bird atop a hyena atop an elephant. Yuki says he was inspired to show the path of evolution after reading about a fossil discovery at the La Brea tar pit outside Los Angeles. The piece also plays off his interest in fables (each of the animals wears a top hat), while the technique, a stencil filled with watercolor, is borrowed from fingerprinting he did as a child.

All of the artists in the Katallog collective studied at the Bandung Institute of Technology, where the liberal arts program focuses on modern, industrial art and design. Most artists who have studied there are producing innovative works using 3D technology and computers.

Katallog defies the trend by keeping its work simple and handcrafted.

Lo-fi/lo-tech, high concept

It’s what those in the art biz call “lo-fi,” which Kerrigan defines as work that is not machine made but employs lots of drawing, cutting and hands-on skill.

“It’s all very lo-tech, very crafty, but very conceptual too,” he said. “That’s kind of what these guys are known for; they’re known for being more conceptual than just making pretty pictures.”

The Katallog Catalog exhibition highlighted the group’s uniqueness, which they say is difficult to describe.

“The thing is, we just do what we do, we make what we make,” said Fauzy, whose art reflects his own life experiences. He says he stays away from making sweeping statements because he doesn’t want to be responsible for the way his art is interpreted.

Yuki shared the sentiment. “If this exhibition can refresh [people’s] minds about what is happening in art, and perhaps show something is not so boring then that’s good.”

He said he likes to think what a collector would imagine if he came to the exhibition and saw the photocopies on the wall. And yet, the work these artists have produced is anything but an imitation.

Details

A.O.D. Art Space opens for special exhibitions only. The Katallog Catalog displayed and sold first edition art, an “original copy” with a unique stamp and then unlimited copies of the original copies. For more on Katallog visit here. For more on the artists, check out Fauzy Prasetya at Kandura; Yuki Agriardi; Tisa Grahicia.

AOD Art Space

The Grass is Always Greener on the Other Side is about the intersection between art and design. Fauzy’s teachers taught him not to mix the two, but that is not a value he shares. “All of us, we surf the Internet, we read modern magazines, and we don’t really care about the difference between art and design,” he says.

Wandering Wonder is a watercolor stamp made from a stencil, which gives it clean lines and lots of detail.

Love Over Fear by newly married Anisa Oktafenny expresses the responsibilities women face as wives. The papercut technique symbolizes the patience and care required when building a family. “It’s about me no longer just thinking of myself,” she says.

Tags: Indonesian Arts Festival, Indonesia

Money and motive: Art buying for beginners

Tue, 25 May 2010 03:45:46 +0000

Fancy yourself as the Asian Saatchi? Here’s everything you need to get you on your way

Damien Hirst, Picasso, Van Gogh; forget them all. To be on the cutting edge of the contemporary art scene, you have to buy Chinese. Such has been the rise of Eastern art that many who never would have considered art acquisitions now fancy themselves as recreational collectors.

But the contemporary art world can be befuddling, so here’s our starter kit to buying art in Asia.

Analyze motives

Let’s start by analyzing a beginner’s motives. Are you collecting for investment purposes or for the love of the art in question? This will determine many of your subsequent steps.

Determine budget

Collecting fine art requires a certain amount of disposable income. Dropping at least HK$20,000 per month on Louboutins and spa treatments? Consider spending that on art instead.

Choose a country

As well as China, Korea and Vietnam have a number of contemporary artists on the rise. But the choice of where is very personal, and it should be. Experts suggest supporting the local artist community where it is easier to get a feel for the scene and the artists of interest. However, developing countries are a boon to those who don’t want to break the bank.

The deep-pockets option

A safe way to get started is with one or two well-chosen pieces by established and internationally recognized artists such as Zhang Xiaogang (of the famous Bloodlines series). But be prepared to fork out a pre-recession era bonus as these works often sell for over HK$20 million.

Starting young

Another approach is to start with young, emerging artists. These works will be less expensive and therefore better for those with a smaller budget. Expect to pay anywhere from HK$10,000 to HK$250,000 at a gallery for up-and-coming Asian artists.

Obviously there is more risk involved with new artists in terms of return on investment but it is a good way for younger collectors to develop their understanding of the market. As appreciation grows, so does the fiscal potential of the works purchased.

Prints for the intimidated

Prints and photography may be the best starting point for those not willing to spend or those still intimidated by collecting. It’s easy to find lithographs and photographs under the HK$10,000 mark around Asia. If the principal aim is to invest, then prints don’t offer the same returns as original works of art, but sometimes you can get lucky. For instance, limited edition Warhol or Chagall prints now sell for millions of Hong Kong dollars.

Diversity is an important part of building an art collection and ideally you should incorporate both original works by established and emerging artists as well as photography and prints.

Although your motives and budget for beginning a collection are probably linked, gallerists and art consultants agree that above all else you should only buy art that you really like. In the end, appreciation or not, you’ve got to live with it.

Tags: chinese artists, chinese art, art galleries

Giant outdoor soccer screens pop up across Tokyo

Tue, 25 May 2010 02:20:22 +0000

There's no shortage of viewing angles ahead of the World Cup, 3D and jumbotrons included

Tokyo residents up for a spot of soccer action are spoiled for choice at the minute, after a rash of giant public screens (at least one of which is 3D, thanks Sony) hit the Japanese capital over the weekend.

Drawing the most attention so far is Sony’s heavily branded -- and oddly named -- Dot Park, which is making its presence felt in Roppongi until Tuesday evening.

The free event at the ostentatious Roppongi Hills complex showcases not just Sony’s 3D technology that will be used during broadcasts of next month’s Soccer World Cup in South Africa, but also PlayStation games, music concerts, movies and Sony Bravia TVs sporting the extra dimension.

Meanwhile, a couple of clicks away at Harajuku, the Japan Football Association and Adidas are setting out their own stall at Samurai Blue Park, where a 10m statue of Edo-era samurai Sakamoto Ryoma dominates proceedings. Oh, and he’s wearing a kimono in the team’s colors.

Giant historical figures aside, there’s also an outdoor jumbotron for the masses that’s due to play host to all the national team’s matches at the tournament.

Given the jumbotron's organizers have added the caveat “until we’re eliminated from the tournament,” soccer fans would be well advised to catch the warm-up matches that are also being shown ahead of the qualifying matches.

Warm-up matches include the Samurai Blues' friendly encounter with England on May 30, followed by the official group matches against Cameroon, the Netherlands and Denmark starting June 14.

Tags: Tokyo Soccer, Japanese technology, 3D World Cup, 3D

A dummy's guide to Chinese art: Who, why and what's next?

Mon, 24 May 2010 23:45:00 +0000

With yet another major Chinese art sale happening at Christie's this week, we look at who's who and why the Chinese art bubble isn't ready to burst just yet

For many, the words “Chinese art” create mixed feelings. Admittedly, contemporary Chinese paintings appear to have rebounded from the economic funk of 2008 and are selling faster and for higher prices than ever.

Beijing-based artist Zeng Fanzhi’s oil-on-canvas diptych “Mask Series 1996 No. 6” famously set the record for the most expensive contemporary Asian artwork ever sold, fetching US$9.7 million at a Christie’s sale in 2008. Forty-something emerging artist Liu Ye’s lampoonish “Bright Road” fetched an artist’s record of US$2.5 million at a Sotheby’s sale in April this year.

But any discerning pedestrian strolling around the galleries of Hong Kong’s Central district will notice contemporary Chinese art also appears plagued by sameness -- cartoonish figures, brightly painted canvases, and recurring Chinoiserie and communist (specifically Chairman Mao) motifs.

Just as the prices of Chinese art reached historic highs in 2007, cynics now are quick to denounce the Asian art phenomenon as a speculative bubble, suggesting that it’s just an investment fad favored by cash-flushed mainlanders with a shallow understanding of art.

But it ain’t necessarily so this time around, arts experts say. The Chinese art scene now is getting increasingly varied and it is only a matter of time before investors acquire a more sophisticated appreciation of art.

Who’s next, and why?

Sotheby’s head of Contemporary Asian Art Evelyn Lin is quick to name a favourite: Jia Aili, a 31-year-old graduate of the Lu Xun Academy of Fine Art who’s just staged his first solo exhibition in Europe.

“For many young artists of Jia Aili’s generation, cartoony styles are very common, and they’re focused on their daily lives. Jia Aili produces interesting works with a different angle. His work talks about themes like the environment, and pollution,” says Lin.

“Many young artists follow the trends of the market. That’s not healthy. To be honest, I think the cartoon style is everywhere, but their kawaii [cute] style doesn’t really say anything.”

Vinci Chang, Christie’s head of sales of Chinese 20th century art and Asian contemporary art, picked surrealist sculptor Zhan Wang, whose mercurial sculptures are currently exhibited in the United States, as the next big thing. Also worthy of mention are auction favorites Zeng Fanzhi and Liu Ye, both distinguished by their caricature cartoonist styles.

More great things are expected yet from Chinese artists, according to the two agenda setters. From calligraphy to gunpowder, Chinese artists have a wealth of cultural elements untouched by Western artists to bank on. The political and social turmoil that Asian artists face in their homeland also help shape powerful, iconoclastic works that can hold their own against contemporary Western counterparts.

Chinese art: a speculative bubble?

It also appears that the star of Chinese art will keep on rising. Both buyers maintained that the Chinese art market is actually undervalued compared to Western modern and contemporary art.

Laughing off the suggestion that Chinese art is a speculative bubble, Lin says: “The Chinese art market is still at the beginning stage. In terms of investment, the price range of Asian art is still very attractive. Compared to Western contemporaries, there is still a long way to go.”

The view is echoed by Chang, who pointed out that the sales of Asian Contemporary Art and Chinese 20th Century Art at Christie’s grew 800 percent from 2004 to 2008, with a "growing international buyer base." The auction house refused to divulge in the exact figure.

Buyers’ taste for art also has plenty of room to mature, Lin adds. “For our contemporary Asian Art sale in Spring 2010, 47 percent of them are from mainland China -- a very high percentage. And they’ve only recently started to focus on the Chinese contemporary art scene.”

At this stage, about half of these new investors are speculators, Lin says. But with more education, she expects the proportion of buyers with a genuine appreciation of the artworks to grow. “The images and language of Chinese art is approachable and easy to understand for the young Chinese generation. The market is very young, and with China’s strong history and more learning about the collectibles, we will eventually learn to appreciate [the artworks intrinsically]."

Tags: chinese artists, chinese art, Asian art, art auction

The Nano Diaries: 10,000 km road trip in India

Mon, 24 May 2010 03:30:09 +0000

Coast to coast, through mountains, deserts, jungles and most major Indian cities, a British journalist takes India's people's car to the people

200km from the outskirts of Mumbai, the effects of too much Red Bull on an empty stomach after 11 solid hours of driving began to kick in. At a neon-green garage, abandoned all but for a couple of attendants sitting expectantly by the pump on plastic chairs, I fell victim to the knock-on effects of excess caffeine and sugar. Tunnel vision, accelerated heart rate, difficulty breathing; I parked Abhilasha in the far corner of the plaza by the toilet block and sat with the A/C on full blast in my face as I struggled to breathe easy and calm the electric buzz in my arms and legs. Absolutely terrifying.

Like a marathon runner just minutes from the finish line, or a mountaineer within a few metres of the summit, I was so close. But this final push was proving to be the end of me. 10pm and only another 3 or so hours to go, but I felt beaten. Around me was pitch black, a void of unknown nothing punctuated by the searing lights of driving insanity. Disoriented, panicked, knackered, I was ready to throw in the towel.

I had been driving all day, since Udaipur; a 750km journey that I was planning on doing over two days, but decided to take advice from the black devil somewhere around Vadadora and go for the whole thing in one shot. What the hell, I thought? It’s the last leg. Let’s make it glorious, triumphant! Let’s march in Mumbai for the final hurrah, our heads held high after a real challenge. After all, what’s the worst can happen?

Excerpted from 'Fear and loathing for the final push', The Nano Diaries

Abhilasha the Tata Nano, 'a little car with big balls'

While the boxy, no-frills frame of Tata's famed Rs 1-lakh Nano car (around $2,140) has been in the cynosure of the international press and auto enthusiasts and critics, a little yellow car called Abhilasha ('A little car with big balls'), has been quietly familiarizing itself with the various nooks, crannies, potholes, little gullis and major highways in India -- the country she -- well, perhaps he -- was built for.

In February 2010, Mexico-based British journalist Vanessa Able, in a bid to distract the increasingly antsy ants in her pants, took to the road putting the Nano to the ultimate test -- a road trip around India. From Mumbai, around Kanyakumari, along the coast of the Bay of Bengal, into the heartland of Bihar, UP, Uttaranchal, Himachal Pradesh, and back through Punjab, Delhi, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and back to Mumbai on May 12. With no plans and no itineraries -- just Google, Lonely Planet and intuition, and a mini Ganesha stuck to her dashboard to ward off unwanted obstacles.

While the rest of the world totters to its feet in the first half of 2010, the 33-year-old travel journalist has already driven a crazy 10,000 kms across India in the cheapest car in the world.

The anti-hero of road trips -- the people's car made especially for in-city running and small distances with a maximum speed of 65kmph -- the Nano's thinly encased interiors do absolutely nothing to make you feel safe against the rouges India's highways are infamous for and the pockmarked highways with upturned trucks that are even scarier.

Because there was that element of impending doom built into the trip and because the Nano is a symbol of an issue fraught with controversy -- social, economic and environmental -- all these would make for more humorous writing at the end of the day when she put this celebrity car and herself through "the trial of a lifetime" as she describes it. And because, any half-wit journo knows jumping into the deep end of the pool sans a lifejacket is the only way to get a good story.

How to be stupid and brave

In their three month trip around India, Able and Abhilasha negotiated "batty city traffic, hours sitting in gridlocks, mountains, forests, plains."

"We have laughed, cried, honked our horn and sworn at negligent truckies; we have gotten lost, found the dead ends of motorways, been attacked (i.e. drooled on) by an elephant and on several occasions very nearly run out of petrol; we have seen farmers, road workers, naked guys, jetset tourists, soldiers, spiritual leaders and literally hundreds of pump attendants quizzical at the car’s secret front-mounted petrol cap; been sworn at, gestured at, stared at, gawped at, pointed at and smiled at," Able recounts.

Phew!

Turning India's coveted little new car into a hero-slash-almost celebrity wasn’t an easy task. Neither was, as she says, the task of emerging unscathed.

A journey beset with a myriad reactions from local people -- kindness, generosity, rudeness, inquisitiveness, encouragement and discouragement, had the omnipresent Indian curiosity as a constant thread. "The one thing I never came across in India was indifference. There were always stares and always engagement. Even if from a distance. Add a yellow Nano into the mix, and you’re a veritable travelling circus show."

Vanessa’s favourite reaction was when one man looked her up and down and said, "If you crash in the Nano, you don't go to hospital, you go straight to heaven. You are very brave." She reckons when he said "brave" he really meant stupid but for someone whose itchy feet led her to be the first tourist in war-torn Iraq, edit magazines in Turkey and Mexico, or set off on a tour of the United States by Greyhound bus, Able is no stranger to both stupid and brave.

Back in England, Able has managed to collect about 3,000 pounds from her once skeptical family and friends, 75 per cent of which she plans to donate to Women's World Banking, a micro-finance organization for low-income women in developing countries.

While her horizon includes seeing more of India and fleshing out a book inspired by her road trip, for now, the online Nano Diaries serve as an adequate resting place for her journals. In the end, two disparate worlds of a British girl and India’s cheapest car become irrevocably tied together.

And as the rest of us scratch our heads over what the Nano will mean for us, the traffic boom, increased mobility, petrol prices -- sitting in its driver's seat Able learned Hindi via audio CD, met the Dalai Lama, made 3,000 bucks traversing one of the most complex countries in the world and arrived back to a cramped Mumbai parking spot three months later -- in one piece. The End.

For more, see The Nano Diaries Facebook page.

Tags: Tata Nano, Indian cars, backpack adventures, Asian road trips, adventure travel

Heyri Art Village: South Korea's melting pot of creativity

Sun, 23 May 2010 23:50:46 +0000

Esteemed artists, musicians, and architects come together at Heyri Art Village to work and display alongside great cafés and restaurants

Some of the South Korea's most esteemed artists, musicians and architects are pooled together in Heyri Art Village, brimming with Bauhaus-inspired galleries, museums and cafés. Less than an hour outside Seoul’s city limits in Paju, and stretching over acres of unspoiled land, many of its buildings are no higher than three stories and all bear the names of the architects who designed them.

Initially developed by the Korea Land Corporation as part of the “Unification Land Development Project”, Heyri Art Village was initially conceived as a “book village” linking to nearby Paju Publishing Town (aka Paju Book City) in 1997. However, as it began materializing, many artists later joined and contributed to its growing appeal and the concept later expanded to that of a “cultural art village”.

Today, with more than 370 creative artists (writers, artists, cineastes, architects and musicians) adding to its creative growth, it’s become a melting pot of ingenuity that’s spawned work rooms, museums, artistic spaces and a string of reputable galleries. The name “heyri” is derived from title of Paju’s traditional farming song, “the sound of Heyri”.

Early on in its inception, Kim Jun-sung, one of the chief architects behind Heyri Art Village’s design, had envisioned the artistic village to maximize the creative interests of the community while minimizing any intrusion to the surrounding environment. “My vision of the project was to not merely focus on the expression of individual buildings but more so on organic ability to maintain the original setting.”

Heyri Art Village works as a collective in order to best balance with the surrounding nature and serves as a significant experiment that may be used as a guide to future developments in other communities as well down the road.

Music Space Camerata

The vision of TV entertainer Hwang In-yong. Fans of classical music will feel right at home. Replete with vintage sofas, wooden table, towering ceiling, 1930s-style speakers, and even a record player. Jot down your favorite song and give it to the DJ. Hence the paper, pen and pencil on every table. Entrance fee (10,000 won (US$8.60)) will get you a free drink and pastry.

Website: www.camerata.co.kr
Phone: +82 31 957 3369

Songa Kitchen & Yebin Craft

When the hunger cramps kick in, venture over to Songa Kitchen. Owner and award-winning veteran craft artist Kim Young-eun serves entrees in tableware molded by his own hands.

His nearby shop, Yebin Craft, has been a favorite for visitors for years. Young-eun doesn’t take the conformist approach and chooses instead to put special care into his work in order to create an ideal balance between food and the manner in which it is presented. According to Young-eun, “tableware can have the same nourishing effects on our souls just as food has on our bodies. The two should balance together harmoniously to complement every meal.”

Website: www.yebincraft.com
Phone: +82 31 947 4668

The Chocolate Design Gallery

Think you know chocolate? Drop in for a treat of your own design. In arguably one of Heyri Art Village’s most innovative buildings, you can also grab great views of the surroundings from its upper patio.

Website: www.chocolategallery.co.kr
Phone: +82 31 942 7257

Total Art Space Book House

Designed by renowned architect Kim Jun-sung and New York’s SHoP architects PC, Total Art Space Book House brings all the elements of nature together seamlessly. Retreat to the café/restaurant below after sifting though the vast selection of books. Particularly attractive at night when the light shines through the building’s wooden exterior.

Website: www.heyribookhouse.co.kr
Phone: +82 31 949 9305

Gallery Café Blume

A short distance away you’ll find this hidden gem. Sit under cherry blossoms while nursing an affogato and cheesecake. A nice way to end the day before grabbing the bus back in to Seoul.

Gallery Café Blume
Phone: +82 31 942 6320

Gallery So So

Hangil Bookhouse

Landmark House

Heyri Pond

Blue Man Statue

Brass Art

Historical Relics

Old Korea

Getting there

Take subway Line 2 to Hapjeong Station. Hop on bus #2200 from Exit2 (50mins).

Additional Information: Best to grab a map when you first arrive. You can pick one up at the information kiosk at Gate 4 for 500 won.

When to go: Naturally warmer weather is much more conducive for strolling so spring and summer are an ideal fit. The village is open 24/7. Galleries, cafes and restaurants, however, keep to their own hours (usually 10am-7pm). Entrance is free with select galleries and museums charging admission.

Getting around: Setting your own pace on foot is most preferable. Alternatively, you can rent bikes (6,000 won for first two hours/4,000 won for each additional hour). The electric car tour of the village will cost 5,000 won per person.

Tags: South Korea, Korean artists, Korean art, art village

Eating live octopus in Korea

Fri, 21 May 2010 23:55:00 +0000

A cast iron stomach and an even steelier resolve for those looking to suck down a live octopus

Asia's live animal-eating practices

Some travellers develop a cast iron stomach and an even steelier resolve to eat whatever they come across whilst they are away from the comforts of home. For this they should be applauded but there are dishes in Asia that will test anyone's resolve, even when they are presented like 'real' food. Donghuamen Night Market in Beijing presents all kinds of edible oddities on sticks but once they have been cooked and placed on that stick, they don't look quite so odd. There is just something homely about that stick. Take the stick away, however, and breathe life back into the critters and beasties and that steely resolve is tested again, further this time and sometimes to destruction. Oysters on the half shell, drunken shrimps and the controversial ikizukuri, the Japanese process of gutting and slicing up fish without killing them, are but three examples of people eating live animals and while the prospect of eating oysters or shrimps may not alert your spidey sense, Korea has its own live dish that just might.

Live octopus in Korean film

One of Korea's most celebrated directors, Park Chan-wook is well known around the world for his brutal films that often include a drop of blood or two. Thanks to Mr Pak, there is an everlasting celluloid example of a practice that is actually very common in Korea. In possibly his best known film, Old Boy, a poor octopus is seen being torn into pieces by a disheveled character who consumes the beast using only his hands and his teeth. While the practice of eating live octopuses whole and tearing them into pieces isn't particularly common, seeing a small octopus chopped into manageable pieces at your table with a pair of scissors is.

Enjoying sannakji (small octopus)

Sannakji are small octopuses that are plucked from a tank of water and taken directly to the table, often a table of semi drunken men. Being drunk is far from an integral part of eating nakji. However, it can in fact be a hindrance of the worst kind if you are unlucky enough to come across a particularly stubborn and murderous octopus.

At the table the little cephalopod is usually snipped into pieces with a pair of scissors, appendages dangling and wavering, a tentacle at a time. They are dropped onto a plate with sesame oil and sometimes torn up sheets of paper thin seaweed and left to twitch and writhe around until the last vestiges of life have drained from their tiny limbs. That is of course if they have the chance to. Sannakji should be eaten while it is still moving as only this can guarantee its freshness and it is only live, wriggling, squirming pieces of octopus tentacle that try to attach themselves to the inside of your cheek, or the surface of your tongue, or your teeth or anywhere else they can cling to in order to avoid dropping into the pit of acid that is their eventual fate.

And therein lies the main reason to eat sannakji.

Why eat live octopus

The sensation of tiny suckers on the inside of your mouth is far more sensuous and pleasing than the actual taste and texture of the octopus. The tentacles are muscular and hard, like chewing through rubber but chew you must for while electrical impulses coarse through the severed members there is every chance a piece of a tentacle will grasp onto you. You don't want this to happen as you are attempting to swallow or it may be the last thing you ever eat. Some people like the feeling in their throats of desperate octopuses attempting to cling on for dear life but don't take the chance, not your first time anyway. Let them writhe in the relative safety of your mouth but putting your molars to good use and grinding the life out it before swallowing.

Take heed at your own risk but there have been cases of drunken men and food exhibitionists, who insists on living on the culinary edge, being undone by a single piece of a single, tiny octopus.

About the author: Rob McGovern is a freelance writer currently living in South Korea, where he has lived for the last three years. When he's not sampling the delights of Korean cuisine he can be found in a taekwondo gym or on a boat, plane or train somewhere in Asia.

To read more articles by Rob McGovern, or to contact him go to one of his two blogs. A Land of Quirk and Charm for his personal outlook on Korea or www.robmcgovern.wordpress.com for slightly more polished work.

Rob submitted this piece as part of CNNGo’s CityPulse section. To find out what other stories we are looking for, go to our CityPulse page.

Want to share your food finds? Let us know: editor@cnngo.com.

Tags: strange food, live octopus, Korean food, city pulse

Asian carriers dominate 2010 World Airline Awards

Fri, 21 May 2010 08:30:59 +0000

South Korea's Asiana Airlines snags the top prize in this year’s Skytrax vote

Asiana Airlines has claimed the Skytrax Airline of the Year 2010 title, ahead of Singapore Airlines and Qatar Airways.

More than 17.9 million air travelers from over 100 different nationalities were included in this year’s survey, which recognizes the best in the global airline industry. It was certainly a good year for Asian airlines, with Cathay Pacific, Thai Airways and Malaysia Airlines also making the Airline of Year Award's top 10 list:

1.   Asiana Airlines
2.   Singapore Airlines
3.   Qatar Airways
4.   Cathay Pacific
5.   Air New Zealand
6.   Etihad Airways
7.   Qantas Airways
8.   Emirates
9.   Thai Airways
10. Malaysia Airlines

Other categories airlines were voted on include “Best Low-Cost Airline,” which was won by Air Asia, ahead of Air Berlin and Virgin Blue. Dragon Air was named “World’s Best Regional Airline,” with Silkair and Bangkok Airways coming in second and third, respectively.

The “Most Improved Airline” award went to Garuda Indonesia, and “Best Cabin Staff” to Singapore Airlines. Ethiad’s topped the vote for “Best First Class” cabin, while fellow Middle Eastern airline Qatar Airways topped the “Best Business Class” category. Malaysian Airlines won the award for "Best Economy Class."

Emirates was named the winner of the "World's Best Airline Inflight Entertainment Award" at the 2010 World Airline Awards, with Singapore Airlines and Virgin Airways coming second and third respectively.

For the full list of categories and winners, go to Worldairlineawards.com.

Tags: World Airline Awards, Skytrax, air travel