Facing swamps, scorpions and civil war on a 3,750-mile walk along the Nile

Daisy Carrington, for CNN
4 minute read
Updated 11:10 AM EST, Mon January 5, 2015
British photojournalist Levison Wood set out to walk the length of the Nile River in December 2013. Wood started in Rwanda and made his way through Tanzania, Uganda, South Sudan, Sudan and Egypt over a nine-month period. The total journey measured 3,750 miles.
One river, seven countries, 3,750 miles —
British photojournalist Levison Wood set out to walk the length of the Nile River in December 2013. Wood started in Rwanda and made his way through Tanzania, Uganda, South Sudan, Sudan and Egypt over a nine-month period. The total journey measured 3,750 miles.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Wood and his guide started their journey in Rwanda's Nyungwe Forest, the source of the Nile. The forest is filled with swamp, and he often found himself waist-deep.
The Nile's source —
Wood and his guide started their journey in Rwanda's Nyungwe Forest, the source of the Nile. The forest is filled with swamp, and he often found himself waist-deep.
Courtesy Levison Wood
While in Rwanda, Wood experienced one of the country's torrential rainy seasons first hand. The river flooded to such an extent that on one occasion he and his guide had to uproot their camp in the middle of the night.
The rainy season —
While in Rwanda, Wood experienced one of the country's torrential rainy seasons first hand. The river flooded to such an extent that on one occasion he and his guide had to uproot their camp in the middle of the night.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Wood notes how diverse the landscape is along the Nile. Some days it's urban, other days it's swamp, others still, old ruins.
Shifting landscape —
Wood notes how diverse the landscape is along the Nile. Some days it's urban, other days it's swamp, others still, old ruins.
Courtesy Levison Wood
While traveling through Rwanda's wetlands, Wood encountered many of the local children harvesting crops -- the de facto activity when school's not in session.
School's out —
While traveling through Rwanda's wetlands, Wood encountered many of the local children harvesting crops -- the de facto activity when school's not in session.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Depending on where he was based, Wood found the color, tenacity and vegetation of the Nile changed radically.
The changing Nile —
Depending on where he was based, Wood found the color, tenacity and vegetation of the Nile changed radically.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Bukoba, Tanzania provided a respite from the rugged landscape he traversed in Rwanda.
Street scene —
Bukoba, Tanzania provided a respite from the rugged landscape he traversed in Rwanda.
Courtesy Levison Wood
In Uganda, he met a troop of boys who were hunting bush rat with bows and arrows.
Young huntsmen —
In Uganda, he met a troop of boys who were hunting bush rat with bows and arrows.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Wood arrived in South Sudan a few months into an intense civil war. Along the way, he met these Dinka cattle keepers.
Entering South Sudan —
Wood arrived in South Sudan a few months into an intense civil war. Along the way, he met these Dinka cattle keepers.
Courtesy Levison Wood
During his journey in South Sudan, Wood encountered the Mundari, a tribe of cattle herders known in equal parts as peace loving and fierce fighters. As a result, rebels in South Sudan steered clear of their territory.
Keeping South Sudan safe —
During his journey in South Sudan, Wood encountered the Mundari, a tribe of cattle herders known in equal parts as peace loving and fierce fighters. As a result, rebels in South Sudan steered clear of their territory.
Courtesy Levison Wood
The Mundari are also known for their wrestling. Wood was invited to join the fray at one point.
A nine month walk along the Nile River —
The Mundari are also known for their wrestling. Wood was invited to join the fray at one point.
Courtesy Levinson Wood
When Wood entered Bor in South Sudan, he started to encounter soldiers and police, many who told him continuing the journey would not be in his best interest.
Into a war zone —
When Wood entered Bor in South Sudan, he started to encounter soldiers and police, many who told him continuing the journey would not be in his best interest.
Courtesy Levison Wood
As the area was rife with violence and looting, Wood had to abandon 400 miles of his walk, and took a plane north to Sudan.
A nine month walk along the Nile River —
As the area was rife with violence and looting, Wood had to abandon 400 miles of his walk, and took a plane north to Sudan.
Courtesy Levinson Wood
When it came to eating, Wood and his guide often relied on the kindness of strangers, who would take them in and feed them. They did carry provisions, but running out of food wasn't uncommon. Once, he says, he didn't eat for two days. Sometimes, his guide would use a slingshot to hunt pigeons for dinner.
A varied diet —
When it came to eating, Wood and his guide often relied on the kindness of strangers, who would take them in and feed them. They did carry provisions, but running out of food wasn't uncommon. Once, he says, he didn't eat for two days. Sometimes, his guide would use a slingshot to hunt pigeons for dinner.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Often, Wood and his guide camped outside, or else rented a cot. Sometimes, families would take the pair in for the night.
Finding shelter —
Often, Wood and his guide camped outside, or else rented a cot. Sometimes, families would take the pair in for the night.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Osama (pictured) hosted Wood near Lake Nasser, a vast reservoir that sits across southern Egypt and the north of Sudan.
A guiding light —
Osama (pictured) hosted Wood near Lake Nasser, a vast reservoir that sits across southern Egypt and the north of Sudan.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Wood noticed a striking difference in the terrain of South Sudan and it's northern counterpart, Sudan. The former was lush and green, he says, while the latter was a desert.
Enter the North —
Wood noticed a striking difference in the terrain of South Sudan and it's northern counterpart, Sudan. The former was lush and green, he says, while the latter was a desert.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Wood visited Sudan's Al-Abidiya, known for gold. There, locals shifted through tubs of mercury and ore in the hope of striking it rich.
Panning for gold —
Wood visited Sudan's Al-Abidiya, known for gold. There, locals shifted through tubs of mercury and ore in the hope of striking it rich.
Courtesy Levison Wood
After regularly walking 20 miles per day, Wood started to feel the effect on his body -- and his feet.
Wear and tear —
After regularly walking 20 miles per day, Wood started to feel the effect on his body -- and his feet.
Courtesy Levison Wood
While traveling through Sudan, Wood stumbled upon a Sufi festival in the village of Kadabas. Hundreds gathered to sing, pray and dance until the early morning.
Sufi festival —
While traveling through Sudan, Wood stumbled upon a Sufi festival in the village of Kadabas. Hundreds gathered to sing, pray and dance until the early morning.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Wood had to enlist the help of a camel when entering the Sahara Desert.
Enter the Sahara —
Wood had to enlist the help of a camel when entering the Sahara Desert.
Courtesy Levison Wood
In the middle of Cairo, Wood encountered a fisherman and his family, who live and work off a boat on the Nile.
Living on a boat —
In the middle of Cairo, Wood encountered a fisherman and his family, who live and work off a boat on the Nile.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Though Egypt is mainly Muslim, Wood encountered many Coptic Christians on his visit to the city of Nag Hammadi. The sect is one of the oldest forms of Christianity.
A nine month walk along the Nile River —
Though Egypt is mainly Muslim, Wood encountered many Coptic Christians on his visit to the city of Nag Hammadi. The sect is one of the oldest forms of Christianity.
Courtesy Levison Wood
Coptic Christians in Cairo's El Zabaleen (garbage city) slum sift through piles of trash.
Garbage city —
Coptic Christians in Cairo's El Zabaleen (garbage city) slum sift through piles of trash.
Courtesy Levison Wood
A nine month walk along the Nile River

Every week, Inside Africa takes its viewers on a journey across Africa, exploring the true diversity and depth of different cultures, countries and regions.

Story highlights

Levison Wood spent nine months walking the length of the Nile River

In nine months, he walked 3,750 miles and crossed six countries

During the trip, he was threatened with guns, ate rat stew and slept with scorpions

CNN  — 

In December 2013, photojournalist Levison Wood set out to become the first person to walk the length of the Nile River.

During his travels, he was robbed at gunpoint, evacuated out of a war zone and almost eaten by crocodiles. He crossed swamps, climbed mountains, cozied up to scorpions in the Sahara desert, and dined on rat stew and grasshoppers.

Those months, he says, were the best of his life.

“I’ve always been interested in the stories of the great Victorian explorers, like Livingstone and those guys,” admits Wood.

“This was an opportunity to try and do something that nobody’s ever done before, but really, it was an opportunity to explore Africa in the 21st century and see how things have changed and how they’ve stayed the same.”

Wood’s journey began in Rwanda, took nine months and spanned 3,750 miles. It was necessary to make the trip on foot, he says, because “walking is the only way you can really get under the skin of a country.”

Occasionally, he was joined by a film crew from the UK’s Channel 4 (the network is planning to air a four-part documentary on his travels). Sometimes he traveled with a local guide. Mainly, though, he walked it alone.

“The biggest difficult was keeping up the motivation and momentum to wake up every morning, walk 20 miles, and do it over and over again,” he says.

“At times, the monotony was crushing. Khartoum (in Sudan) marked the halfway point, and the most difficult time was probably just before I reached it. I wasn’t halfway there and I still had 2,000 miles left to walk. That was pretty demoralizing,” he admits.

The kindness of strangers

Wood acknowledges that his survival was often dependent on the hospitality of local villagers, of which there was an abundance. The people of the Sudan, he says, were probably the most giving of all.

“It’s portrayed in the Western media as this pariah state, and the government does leave a lot to be desired, but it had by far and away the most incredible hosts I’ve ever encountered across the world,” he says.

Even sharing water, he says, demonstrated an incredible act of kindness – given it’s a 20-mile walk to the nearest source for many villagers.

Half the time he slept outdoors, while the other half he would lodge with a local. Food wasn’t always a given. In Uganda, he recalled a two-day period when he went without food completely.

“My guide had a catapult,” he recalls. “He would shoot pigeons. We ate what we could catch. Other times we’d eat with villagers. The local delicacies could vary, from grasshoppers to rats.”

Out of harm’s way (almost)

The journey wasn’t without danger. Civil War in South Sudan broke out shortly after his arrival. As he ventured closer to the country, he started hearing tales of death, destruction, and a steady trail of fleeing refugees.

He made it halfway through the country, to Bor – the front line of the war. It was there that he was arrested and brought before an army commander, who told him he was not welcome, and threatened to kill him if he crossed into the rebel side. He was evacuated to the capital, and flew to North Sudan.

“I missed out 400 miles of the journey, but it was a sensible thing to do; carrying on through would have been tantamount to suicide.”

Had he made the trip uninterrupted, he would likely have achieved a Guinness World Record. Now, he’s not so sure, though he says it doesn’t matter.

“It was never about breaking records, it was about taking the biggest adventure in my life, and it was certainly that.”

The finish line

Wood’s journey ended in Egypt, where the Nile meets the Mediterranean Sea.

It was a cathartic moment, he says, and one that was bittersweet.

“When you’re doing something every day for months and months, to see it end, there will be some sadness,” he admits. Mainly, though, he remembers it as “one of the happiest days of my life.”

“The first thing I did was run into the sea, and just enjoy the moment,” he says.

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